Couple Questions About PC Polishing.

2

2007TBSS

New member
How far do you overlap your 2 X 2 polishing areas? From what I have read on here a lot of people do a small area like 2 X 2, break down the polish and then move to another 2 X 2 area and repeat? Do you overlap half a pad?



Explain the IPA wipe down a little. Just a splash on a rag? 50/50 mixture in a bottle and sprayed/wiped with microfiber?



How do you polish the little areas where a polisher won't reach? Like between a badge and door trim?



I'm about ready to take my first shot at it and I'm sure I'll learn a lot then, but I'm trying to get a mental game plan together here and these are my weak spots.



Thanks!
 
I use a slightly smaller working area (no more than 20 includes square even less with 4-in pads when doing correction) and use a piece of painters tape to mark areas. I just overly lap slightly (less than 1/2 pad).



Spray the IPA mixture like a detailer on the paint then wipe off with a mf towel. As you use it, the towel gets damp so I then back off on the amount I spray slightly.



If I had a tight spot, I would use a 4-in pad or do it by hand using a 4-in pad.
 
2007TBSS- I don't really do much overlapping, or at least I don't give it much thought. More like I do separate, adjacent areas.



I do even smaller areas than Bunky, especially if working hard clear like on a GM.



Be sure to use those *small pads* if you're doing your TBSS, that hard clear will need 'em. Don't mess around with 6.5" pads or you're likely to be one very frustrated person ;)



Pick a test spot and work it from initial correction to final polishing. Then inspect the [heck] out of it in *GOOD* lighting. Make absolutely certain that you have an approach that will work before you do a whole panel, let alone the whole vehicle. IF something isn't going right, figure it out before going on.



IMO pretty much any method will work with the IPA. The idea is simply that the alcohol will soften/loosen the oils/etc. and allow you to then wipe them away. You're just cleaning the paint with a solvent, so remember to get the oils off the finish once the IPA gets them to release from the paint.



Did I mention the importance of a test spot? ;)



Plan on things taking a *LOT* longer than you expect. Consider doing one/two panels after each of a series of regularly-scheduled washes. Don't expect the PC to make things go as quickly as the ad-copy implies!



Did I sufficiently emphasize how important the test spot is? ;)



Stop and clean your pads frequently, even if you just wipe them off with a towel. They'll get loaded with old product and cut-off paint. Watch they don't get caked with dried product! That can happen fast, especially if you overwork the product a little bit; try to buff off the product residue before it dries.



Now, about that test spot.....
 
adamspolishes.com/p-338-adams-improved-7424xp-da-car-polishing-kit.aspx



This is actually the kit I am looking at. I know its a "boutique brand" and I'm paying a little bit of a simplicitiy fee. I watched a few videos and the level of detail they go into make me feel comfortable trying it myself. From what I gathered here, the standard 105/205 Megs is good but then opinions seems to vary on LSP's. So I said screw it and opted for the kit.



Do those pads looks alright for what you were talking about? Polishes seem sufficient? I only have some swirls and spider webbing, mostly past bad wash technique and some new ones I got from my recent repaint.



Also, do you tape off an area and polish it or just something like 15X15 and then move over, mentally keeping track of where you've been?



I feel pretty good about trying it and am more than willing to veg out all weekend if need be.



My SS is my zen garden. LoL
 
2007TBSS said:
adamspolishes.com/p-338-adams-improved-7424xp-da-car-polishing-kit.aspx



Also, do you tape off an area and polish it or just something like 15X15 and then move over, mentally keeping track of where you've been?



I feel pretty good about trying it and am more than willing to veg out all weekend if need be.
Click to expand...



I guess I was not clear in my first post. I use a piece of tape to mark off the corners of the working area to keep track. You cannot get each section to be a square but it helps me be sure I do not overlap too much.



I have never used Adam's polishes but I suspect with the right technique you will likely achieve the results you want. Adam's sells the hex pattern pads (using the Buff and Shine color system).



How badly swirled is your SS?



You may not need an orange pad but no harm in getting the kit. I would suggest a test spot with the white pad first and their medium polish (Swirl and Haze Remover?) to see what it does.
 
2007TBSS- I checked out the kit you posted a link to, but I'm afraid I don't know just what to say about it :think:



I've never used any Adam's stuff, so I just don't know if it's something I'd recommend or not.



I'm guessing that the pads are at least 6" based on the backing plate size. I absolutely would not want to do a GM vehicle (or any other to tell the truth) with pads that big. Via Flex, yeah...but via PC (even an XP model)? No way.



I'm not a fan of pads that have patterns cut in them, but that's just me.



Gee, sorry that the preceding sounds so negative :o



I only tape things that I *don't* want the pads to hit. For doing a whole panel, I just work it in sections without taping those sections off to separate them. Never having done a TB I'm not sure what I'd tape, but when I did my '00 Blazer I don't think I taped *anything* (but I was using products that were black plastic trim-friendly too). On my Yukon I only taped certain plastic/rubber stuff that I didn't want to stain with my products (M105/M205).



You'll almost certainly be able to see the before/after effect so between that and mentally keeping track you'll find this topic is a non-issue. And if I'm wrong about that, I bet you'll quickly come up with an on-the-fly solution.



I'm pretty sure that you're gonna find that the polishing is sooo gentle that most of your current concerns will quickly disappear, to be replaced by questions like "how to I make this stuff more aggressive?". I tell ya, sometimes I'm simply amazed by how hard it is to get seemingly minor flaws out!
 
Thanks guys for all the help!



:thx



So, since I have your attention, do you have a better set-up you would suggest? Obviously the 7424xp is pretty standard, but is there a kit (pads/ backing plate) you would suggest for LC pads? Or maybe the CCS? I would be willing to go that route if I knew what I was getting. I understand what you're saying about the 6in pads. What size would you suggest? Obviously, I'm working with a finite amount of money, so the extra would be great to throw on a set of halogens or a Sun Gun.



Same thing with the Megs products. Do you use 105 as your LSP, or do you use another product in between that and wax? I think I read some like the Menz 85rd? I already have a good collection of Zaino products, so to be honest the Adams wax was gonna just be an extra. I have also thought about the Opti-Seal (?) due to similar shine, durability, plus the lower cost. Correct me if I'm wrong!





1) 205

2) 105

3) ???

4) Z-AIO?

5) Z-5

6) Z-6

7) Grand Finale



Note, obviously this is after a Dawn and claybar treatment.



I've read on here for about an hour a day for the last month, but I tell ya, I rarely see the same product mentioned twice. It's hard to get a consensus on whats best and especially cost effective. If someone were to just tell me what to buy, I'd probably buy it.:buffing:



I know I'm probably pole vaulting over mouse turds here, but I'd like to have a game plan before spending a dime more and especially before laying a polisher on the truck.
 
1) 205

2) 105

3) ???

4) Z-AIO?

5) Z-5

6) Z-6

7) Grand Finale



Way to many steps, youve got 5 polishing steps listed, and than you also got 205 before 105?



It should be do a test section with 205 and if you dont get the desired results move to 105,205,LSP



And I would rarely ever got 105 than lsp unless the customer want a quickie and didnt care about haze and clarity and just wanted the swirls removed. As far as 85rd goes I use it if 205 is causing alot of micro marring with my PC
 
WMD-DFW said:
1) 205

2) 105

3) ???

4) Z-AIO?

5) Z-5

6) Z-6

7) Grand Finale



Way to many steps, youve got 5 polishing steps listed, and than you also got 205 before 105?



It should be do a test section with 205 and if you dont get the desired results move to 105,205,LSP



And I would rarely ever got 105 than lsp unless the customer want a quickie and didnt care about haze and clarity and just wanted the swirls removed. As far as 85rd goes I use it if 205 is causing alot of micro marring with my PC
Click to expand...



DOH!! I meant the other way around.:argue



I thought most people used the 105 for their first correction, then used the 205 as maintenance to keep the finish in good shape. But I also read that the 205 wasn't fine enough for an LSP. What are you guys using for LSP?



Is that correct? If I do a polish do I need to use an AIO?



This is confusing. lol Well, probably not, but I'm making it confusing.
 
205 isnt really a wax so it shouldnt be used as an lsp its a polish, and as far as what I use for an LSP just depends on what the customer wants. And I only use AIO when Im doing a basic detail
 
Is wax an LSP? I thought LSP was like Ultra-Fina or something. As in last step polish, before wax, then sealant.



I might be retarded.
 
well to sum things up,



the 105 205 (maybe 85rd as mentioned in the previous post) Is a great pair and should do fine.



as an avid zaino user, The ZAIO is fenominal and would use it instead of 85rd any day because when used properly, will remove haze/ micro-marring. Then z5, z2 finally z8 to top her off.



Also when using the zaino system, after polishing (whatever you choose to go with) make sure to IPA because zaino does not like anything but bare paint.



I wish you well, everything should go great
 
Alright, not sure why my brain was on the fritz last night. Long day I guess.



So i think I might try the 105/205 route. I need a pc, backing plate and pad kit and the polish.



Do I need to buy anything for between 205 and wax? Will the AIO do for that step? Do I polish the AIO or just let it haze and wipe off?



What pads are necessary? I wouldn't think it would hurt to have a yellow on hand?



Is 5.5 pads small enough? Or do I need to look for 4" pads?



This is the kit i am leaning towards and why I was asking about the yellow pads.



Meguiars Porter Cable Ultra Polish Kit with 5.5 Inch Pads, Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Polishing Kit, Meguiars polishes, Porter Cable 7424 Mirror Glaze



And is there a preference of CCS or LC pads? This one comes with the CCS.
 
Also, pad correlation? All tangerine pad for both the 105 and the 205? The yellow is just for hammered paint right? The 105 should have sufficient cut for most jobs?



And does anyone have any info on how to clean the pad between panels? Just a shot of APC or water and a quick blow out with the air hose or brush off with a mf towel? I searched all over but didn't see anything about pad cleaning.
 
2007TBSS- See if this (sure to be long-winded!) reply covers some of your Qs.



Go with Meguiar's instead of Pinnacle. I don't have anything against the latter, but I think the Meguiar's is the way to go.



No way you'd consider spending a bit more and getting a Griot's 6" RO (I'd still use smaller pads on it) or even a Flex 3401? That TBSS of yours will be a job even with a really potent polisher.



If you get that kit, I'd want some pads in-between the orange cutting pad and the finishing pads. Mabye the LC Tangerine HydroTechs, which, IME, work well on GM clear with M205.



The issue with using yellow pads is that they can instill micromarring, which can then be a paint to polish out. I'd much rather do a little extra work with orange pads myself. I *have not* used yellow cutting pads via PC/etc. for ages even though I have 'em on hand; it's simply not a great way to do it IMO.



The M205 will leave a pretty good finish. Probably good enough. Only nutty people like me would even think to question how it finishes out on GM clear. Yeah, I sometimes think my Yukon coulda used one more final burnishing, but PLEASE don't worry about stuff like that.



Note IME the ZAIO (which I do like) didn't do any extra burnishing when I used it after the M205 :nixweiss So don't expect it to do that for you, but again, eh, just quit thinking about that ;)



Zero evidence of micromarring from the M205 on my Yukon.



ZAIO needs to be worked kinda like a polish so it's abrasives break down. Work it until it's almost dried out then let it haze over the rest of the way before you buff it off.



The oils from M205 can give a pseudo-hologram effect in the sun so be sure to inspect for that and take care of it (if it happens) before you apply the Zaino/LSP.



You might want to consider how you'll clean off the oils from M205, especially if you're using Zaino. I didn't find ZAIO as good for that as I'd expected; some clears seem "sticky" in that they retain the oils and my Yukon was *REALLY* like that. IPA works pretty OK but TOL's PrepWash (link to TOL: Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies ) works better for me and it's cheap.



Try to keep this whole thing as simple as possible, greater likelihood that all will go well. That "cleaning off the M205 oils" thing can be a bit of a complication, and one that you don't always hear mentioned, but IMO it's better to think about *that* than about a lot of extra polishing/LSP/etc. steps.
 
If going with the Hydro-Tech pads, I would get the both the Cyan (cutting) and Tangerine (polishing).



And in order from least aggressive to most to see what the paint responds to (when doing the test spot).



205 w/ Tang

205 w/ Cyan

105 w/ Tang

105 w/ Cyan
 
Accumulator said:
2007TBSS- See if this (sure to be long-winded!) reply covers some of your Qs.



Go with Meguiar's instead of Pinnacle. I don't have anything against the latter, but I think the Meguiar's is the way to go.



No way you'd consider spending a bit more and getting a Griot's 6" RO (I'd still use smaller pads on it) or even a Flex 3401? That TBSS of yours will be a job even with a really potent polisher.
Click to expand...



The Griots looks very interesting. There's no kit available for it that includes the Megs, only the Pinnacle and on the site I couldn't find the 105. Only the 205.



What pad kit would you suggest? It appears to come with a backing plate. Are there specific pads for that machine?



I will definately look into the rest of that when I get home. If possible, shoot some links for a pad kit or pads that work with that.



Also, do you work the AIO till it's almost dry with the gray pad? Is that what you were talking about?
 
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