Collinite over M66
- Thread starter bcgreen
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen- While I`ve never tried either combo, I`d cautiously expect either to work OK. I`d sure try a test-spot though.
I`ve applied both over AIOs and other leaves-stuff-behind products with no problems, but you just never really know until you try.
I`ve applied both over AIOs and other leaves-stuff-behind products with no problems, but you just never really know until you try.
Accumulator
Well-known member
It`s more a matter of finding out that it *doesn`t*, if/when that happens. When it goes haywire you`ll get smearing instead of the topper flashing off/drying normally, and it won`t wipe off cleanly with the final buff, but rather will leave issues like pseudoholograms.
I don`t know which of the two (845 vs. FK1000P) will be most likely to do OK/not, but between the solvents in 845 and my positive experiences applying the FK over top of various things, I`d go with the FK.
FWIW, I`ve applied FK1000P over top of KAIO, ZAIO, 1Z WaxPolishSoft, and 1Z Pro-line Metallic Polish. All of those leave protection behind, but it`s *synthetic* protection not carnauba/etc. I`ve never used M66 so I just don`t know what to expect with that one.
Accumulator
Well-known member
It`ll also be good to know if the M66 and FK1000P are compatible. Plenty of people use M66...
IIRC it also works fine over Black Hole, so there`s one more reason to be optimistic.
To be on the safe(r) side, you could always wait a day (if that`s feasible) between the two so whatever`s in the M66 has time to cure/whatever it does.
IIRC it also works fine over Black Hole, so there`s one more reason to be optimistic.
To be on the safe(r) side, you could always wait a day (if that`s feasible) between the two so whatever`s in the M66 has time to cure/whatever it does.
Might be difficult as this is not my vehicle, but might do the topper the morning before the vehicle is picked up.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Heh heh, better hope it goes OK then so you`re not stuck trying to redo at the last moment! This reminds me of when I tried adding a "finishing touch" by wiping down a Collinited car with FK425 only to have that QD trash the 476S so badly that I had to redo everywhere the QD touched
But I`d still be optimistic.
You are NOT wasting your time by applying some type of Last-Step Product (LSP) that has some amount of durability over the Megs #66, which is really a all-in-one-step product (Clean/Polish/Wax). I will ask if you are doing the #66 application by hand or by polishing/buffing machine.
I think Accumulator`s "concern" is cross-product compatibility. Meg`s has this notorious reputation for its Trade Secret Oils (TSOs) that are used as a lubricant and emulsifier for its "patented" abrasives that do not "play well" (IE, are compatible) with some waxes. They cause smears and fogging of some (not all) waxes and this will be most apparent in the sunlight or LED inspection lights after you wipe off the wax and look at it. You pearl white MKX will "hide" them to some degree or make them harder to detect. One way to avoid this dilemma is to wipe down the exterior panels with Iso-Propyl Alcohol (IPA; and no, not the beer type but a rubbing alcohol) and a soft microfiber cloth to remove the TSOs after you have applied and wiped off the M66. I am not sure if M66 contains TSOs, but I assume it does since there some abrasives in it to be a one-step "detailer glaze".
I am a Collinite affection-ado, but if you are more concerned with durability for this winter, I would think the FK1000P Hi-Temp Wax might be a better bet for your MKX. I like Collinite 915 Marque D`Elegance wax more than 845 for durability, BUT if you want a carnauba glow or gloss, then use the 845 rather than FK1000P. And do not forget to wax your rims with either wax to protect them. Most OEM rims are clear coated, even if they look like chrome.
By the way, why are you using the M66 and what do you think of it? I`ve use alot of Meg`s products, from their Mirror Glaze Professional Line, their Professional Detailer Line (bulk gallon products), and their consumer Ultimate Line.
As a side topic, please see the thread for suggestions on one-step products :
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/188474-suggestions-step-wax-cleaner-wax.html?highlight=
I think Accumulator`s "concern" is cross-product compatibility. Meg`s has this notorious reputation for its Trade Secret Oils (TSOs) that are used as a lubricant and emulsifier for its "patented" abrasives that do not "play well" (IE, are compatible) with some waxes. They cause smears and fogging of some (not all) waxes and this will be most apparent in the sunlight or LED inspection lights after you wipe off the wax and look at it. You pearl white MKX will "hide" them to some degree or make them harder to detect. One way to avoid this dilemma is to wipe down the exterior panels with Iso-Propyl Alcohol (IPA; and no, not the beer type but a rubbing alcohol) and a soft microfiber cloth to remove the TSOs after you have applied and wiped off the M66. I am not sure if M66 contains TSOs, but I assume it does since there some abrasives in it to be a one-step "detailer glaze".
I am a Collinite affection-ado, but if you are more concerned with durability for this winter, I would think the FK1000P Hi-Temp Wax might be a better bet for your MKX. I like Collinite 915 Marque D`Elegance wax more than 845 for durability, BUT if you want a carnauba glow or gloss, then use the 845 rather than FK1000P. And do not forget to wax your rims with either wax to protect them. Most OEM rims are clear coated, even if they look like chrome.
By the way, why are you using the M66 and what do you think of it? I`ve use alot of Meg`s products, from their Mirror Glaze Professional Line, their Professional Detailer Line (bulk gallon products), and their consumer Ultimate Line.
As a side topic, please see the thread for suggestions on one-step products :
https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-detailing/188474-suggestions-step-wax-cleaner-wax.html?highlight=
I was thinking I will go 845, because I am close to empty on that bottle.
Just before I go full bore on the detailing I will do a panel with the M66 and the 845 and I will know early on what`s going to work or not.
I bought the M66 in the gal. size back in 2004 when I had a black G35. Meguiars suggested I use M66 because I was having so much problem with the super soft paint. Bought it when I attended a class with Mike when he was with Meguiars in Orange County. Eventually I ended up with Opti-Coat, recommended by Accum.
I like the idea of AIO as it just takes me so long to go through the 3 step process. The owner won`t know the difference between AIO and the 3 stepper and they are not paying for a paint correction, just a paint enhencement.
I am anxious to try the BF AIO and see how they compare. I think the M66 might be more abrasive.
Just before I go full bore on the detailing I will do a panel with the M66 and the 845 and I will know early on what`s going to work or not.
I bought the M66 in the gal. size back in 2004 when I had a black G35. Meguiars suggested I use M66 because I was having so much problem with the super soft paint. Bought it when I attended a class with Mike when he was with Meguiars in Orange County. Eventually I ended up with Opti-Coat, recommended by Accum.
I like the idea of AIO as it just takes me so long to go through the 3 step process. The owner won`t know the difference between AIO and the 3 stepper and they are not paying for a paint correction, just a paint enhencement.
I am anxious to try the BF AIO and see how they compare. I think the M66 might be more abrasive.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Exactly, except that I`d be more worried about whatever "wax-stuff" it leaves behind than TSO in this particular case (although, yeah..those Meg`s TSO are always on my mind when I use their stuff). BUT...I still think the FK1000P would work OK over it, and I`d probably be more leery of trying the 845.
Per usual, I wouldn`t use IPA in an attempt to mitigate that, but eh, I never reach for IPA much anyhow and others sure do.
I wouldn`t use the 845 if only because it`s too short-lived. I`ve used a ton of it (preferring the more durable pre-VOC version), and I don`t DISlike it or anything, but the areas I do with it on the `93 Audi need redone *MUCH* sooner than the areas wearing the FK.
Hey, that got my attention! I never thought of 845 as having a "carnauba glow", rather I find it`s a "bright, reflective" wax, like M16 only moreso. I specifically topped it with 476S when I wanted a "wax look" and I`d never use it on the Jag (any more than I`d use M16, and I do like that stuff especially on light colors, but not on the Jag, too "sealanty"). Hmmm...more of that eye-of-beholder stuff!
Again, I`d use the FK since the 845 dies off so fast, even when topped with many applications of 476S (one of the combos I used to use on wheels; it never made it through a Winter).
bcgreen said:
Uh-oh, I`d better shut up about that FK1000P! Either way you go, it`s gotta be a relief to not deal with that stupid-soft Infiniti paint.
I`ll be interested to hear what you think of the BF AIO. I`ve never tried that one...but I bet you can top it with most anything since that`s how BF`s stuff (that I`ve used) has worked out in the past.
I`ll be interested to hear what you think of the BF AIO. I`ve never tried that one...but I bet you can top it with most anything since that`s how BF`s stuff (that I`ve used) has worked out in the past.[/QUOTE]
It`ll be a while before I purchase any BF because I like using up what`s on the shelf. And at my rate of using up products there is bound to be something new and improved.
My containers of Meguiars 205 & 105 have cracked when I squeeze them, so they`re taped up with duck tape.
It`ll be a while before I purchase any BF because I like using up what`s on the shelf. And at my rate of using up products there is bound to be something new and improved.
My containers of Meguiars 205 & 105 have cracked when I squeeze them, so they`re taped up with duck tape.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen- Huh, my Meguiar`s bottles are still OK, and they`re *old*.
On the new/improved, heh heh...when it comes to AIOs I`m still using some that`ve been around for *decades*. And yeah, I too am trying to use up stuff that I already have, basically done chasing the newest-bestest
On the new/improved, heh heh...when it comes to AIOs I`m still using some that`ve been around for *decades*. And yeah, I too am trying to use up stuff that I already have, basically done chasing the newest-bestest
Dan
Well-known member
845 over M66 works just fine, used to use that combo. Doesn`t seem to really impact durability.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Great, thanks for confirming that! I just knew somebody here had tried that combo. Now if somebody will comment on the M66 + FK1000P...
IME 845 works on/over most anything (including not-properly-prepped surfaces), that`s one reason why I`m using it on a few areas of the `93 Audi.
I can`t really think of one instance where using something short-lived underneath a LSP (i.e., a combo that does work OK without immediate compatibility issues) had any discernible effect on its durability. IME, combos either work or they don`t.
Same goes for LSPing without claying/etc. to remove (minor) contamination; unless the surface is obviously in need of real Prep, it just doesn`t matter in the functional sense...well, not IME at least (YMMV of course). Heh heh, to hear the clay vendors tell it, no LSP ever lasted long before people started claying all the time, but things like Collinite and M16 lasted for a good long time decades before anybody used clay and they never lasted *longer* for me when I clayed first.