Collinite 845, black = muted? - considering round 2 w/topper or KAIO under

K

kramerica

New member
I recently clayed & applied Collinite 845 to a silver Infiniti and black Yukon. The main reason I switched from NXT was for the reported exceptional durability of 845. I really liked how easily it went on and came off.



To make sure I wasn't delusional or brainwashed by all the helpful guidance here, I asked for my wife's (unbiased) opinion regarding slickness. As I suspected, definitely less slick. However, I'll gladly trade slickness for durability. With that in mind, I'm done for now with the silver. Only time will tell regarding longevity.



Black Yukon = muted? Every time I look at it, Accumulator's comments come to mind. Assuming 845 will outperform others for durability, I'm considering the following if it would achieve a deeper, wetter look, and not affect the bonding of IW.



wash

clay...



KAIO under 845

or

845 then NXT or pb's black hole or blackfire wet diamond on top

or

anything else?(optimum poli seal, ____, _____)



Does anyone have experience with or predict a benefit from doing this? If so, would I need remove the existing 845 or re-clay? (It's been approx. 2 weeks)

Thanks
 
kramerica said:
I recently clayed & applied Collinite 845 to a silver Infiniti and black Yukon. The main reason I switched from NXT was for the reported exceptional durability of 845. I really liked how easily it went on and came off.



To make sure I wasn't delusional or brainwashed by all the helpful guidance here, I asked for my wife's (unbiased) opinion regarding slickness. As I suspected, definitely less slick. However, I'll gladly trade slickness for durability. With that in mind, I'm done for now with the silver. Only time will tell regarding longevity...
Click to expand...



Interesting that you didn't find the 845 sufficiently slick for you, but it oughta stay nice (and shed dirt well) longer than the NXT.



Next time you might want to consider FK1000P for both slickness and durability.



Black Yukon = muted? Every time I look at it, Accumulator's comments come to mind. Assuming 845 will outperform others for durability, I'm considering the following if it would achieve a deeper, wetter look, and not affect the bonding of IW...
Click to expand...



Uhm...which comments of mine come to mind? :think:



On a straight/nonmetallic black, any "muting" from the 845 would come from its being a "bright/reflective" wax rather than one that's all about "depth/jetting" (scare-quotes sorta intentional because sometimes the appearance diffs are often pretty subtle).



That's assuming the prep was OK.



Using KAIO wouldn't, IMO, help make the black look richer/deeper/etc. because it's a kinda "bright" product too. But FWIW 845 bonds fine over top of pretty much anything.



Using some kind of glaze (never tried the Black Hole, but stuff like the Meguiar's "pure polishes" will work) before the LSP would be more likely to give the rich/deep look.



Topping with something like Meg's #26 might do it, that's a good (at least for the price) wax for depth/etc. on colors like black. The Collinite paste waxes (maybe 915) would probably work fine for this too, and would offer much greater durability than the #26. I like topping 845 with 476S myself, but I don't have any nonmetallic black vehicles at present (nor do I plan to get any ;) ).



On something big and black like that, I'd much rather try tweaking the look by topping the 845 with something than do any kind of starting over! But again, that's assuming the prep was OK. Imperfect prep might be responsible for any dissatisfaction :nixweiss
 
My guess is the preparation. To be honest, after letting 845 sit for an hour, buffing it off, and coming back an hour later, the slickness was very well there, even moreso after buffing it off and letting it sit. The question would be how did you prepare your paint, and did you let it sit long enough before removing it?
 
Leadfootluke said:
My guess is the preparation. To be honest, after letting 845 sit for an hour, buffing it off, and coming back an hour later, the slickness was very well there, even moreso after buffing it off and letting it sit. The question would be how did you prepare your paint, and did you let it sit long enough before removing it?
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From varying responses here, I was under the impression that the wait time was not a big factor. I'd say I waited about 10 minutes before removing.
 
kramerica said:
From varying responses here, I was under the impression that the wait time was not a big factor. I'd say I waited about 10 minutes before removing.
Click to expand...



As far as performance, I don't know if the wait matters. I have tried numerous methods of approach to applying and removing and found the finish to be slicker if I let the 845 dry completely and then buffed it off.



Did you polish the surface prior to applying the 845, or was it humid outside when you did?
 
Accumulator said:


Interesting that you didn't find the 845 sufficiently slick for you, but it oughta stay nice (and shed dirt well) longer than the NXT.



Next time you might want to consider FK1000P for both slickness and durability.







Uhm...which comments of mine come to mind? :think:



On a straight/nonmetallic black, any "muting" from the 845 would come from its being a "bright/reflective" wax rather than one that's all about "depth/jetting" (scare-quotes sorta intentional because sometimes the appearance diffs are often pretty subtle).



That's assuming the prep was OK.



Using KAIO wouldn't, IMO, help make the black look richer/deeper/etc. because it's a kinda "bright" product too. But FWIW 845 bonds fine over top of pretty much anything.



Using some kind of glaze (never tried the Black Hole, but stuff like the Meguiar's "pure polishes" will work) before the LSP would be more likely to give the rich/deep look.



Topping with something like Meg's #26 might do it, that's a good (at least for the price) wax for depth/etc. on colors like black. The Collinite paste waxes (maybe 915) would probably work fine for this too, and would offer much greater durability than the #26. I like topping 845 with 476S myself, but I don't have any nonmetallic black vehicles at present (nor do I plan to get any ;) ).



On something big and black like that, I'd much rather try tweaking the look by topping the 845 with something than do any kind of starting over! But again, that's assuming the prep was OK. Imperfect prep might be responsible for any dissatisfaction :nixweiss
Click to expand...



I thought you mentioned 845 possibly muting darker colors, but my apologies if I misinterpreted.



Thanks for the ideas. I too, would much rather top the 845, maybe with another thin layer of 845, before starting over.
 
I have 845 on my phantom black Audi right now. Even after a Michigan winter, it is still "bright/reflective," which is the opposite of muted, as I understand the term.



Did you shake the hell out of the bottle before using?
 
kramerica- Eh, when I think of "muting" I think of things not looking "crisp" or "sharp", or of then a metallic paint doesn't have that "dazzling in the sun" look. With nonmetallic black, "muted" to me is like "milky" or when it has a brownish look in certain lighting. All the preceding are usually related to prep IME.



I wouldn't expect another coat of 845 to change the appearance any.
 
Leadfootluke said:
As far as performance, I don't know if the wait matters. I have tried numerous methods of approach to applying and removing and found the finish to be slicker if I let the 845 dry completely and then buffed it off.



Did you polish the surface prior to applying the 845, or was it humid outside when you did?
Click to expand...



It was not humid that day and I did not polish. Why not? Well, while risking autopian blaspheme, those with sensitive stomachs, please cover your eyes:



I hate detailing. Of course I love the results, but because I'm no pro, I have realistic expectations and refrain from taking risks. Therefore, I just "fill in" as I've always done and I do it because I have to (for protection). I'm coming to the conclusion that I need to pay someone else (even if just once) to correct the paint and teach me to maintain it properly.



So getting back to the question regarding polish, I basically opted to clay and wax, rather than needlessly push M205 around and risk further marring. Maybe I'll get a little discount if I offer to donate all these products I do not intend to use. :)
 
I agree 100% even 915 looks muted in my opinion, but offers great durability. For a wet look, you can top with a good carnauba like Auto Glym HD wax which is now pretty inexpensive at Wal Mart.





John
 
Agree with what everyone else was saying, 845 looks very bold and bright on black, though I love 845, I hate it on black. See if you can find #26 locally, it looks amazing on black, it will be the polar opposite of 845. NXT is somewhere in the middle.
 
Accumulator said:
kramerica- Eh, when I think of "muting" I think of things not looking "crisp" or "sharp", or of then a metallic paint doesn't have that "dazzling in the sun" look. With nonmetallic black, "muted" to me is like "milky" or when it has a brownish look in certain lighting. All the preceding are usually related to prep IME.



I wouldn't expect another coat of 845 to change the appearance any.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the clarification. Regarding FK1000P, would you say it's as versatile as 845? Running boards + other exterior black plastic?



I have a good mind to even slap a coat of 845 on my new air conditioners. :) They sure cost enough to warrant detailing!
 
yakky said:
Agree with what everyone else was saying, 845 looks very bold and bright on black, though I love 845, I hate it on black. See if you can find #26 locally, it looks amazing on black, it will be the polar opposite of 845. NXT is somewhere in the middle.
Click to expand...



Thanks for the option yakky. Could I top the existing 845 with #26? or opti-seal?
 
kramerica said:
Thanks for the option yakky. Could I top the existing 845 with #26? or opti-seal?
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Optiseal would need to be applied to paint for proper adhesion, so the 845 would need to be stripped. 845 is a hybrid with carnauba and synthetic waxes, I would almost think you could top 845 with #26 if you gently applied the #26 over the 845.
 
kramerica said:
Thanks for the clarification. Regarding FK1000P, would you say it's as versatile as 845? Running boards + other exterior black plastic?
Click to expand...



Well, I've done it, but no...FK1000P is not as trim-friendly as 845. You have to be careful to avoid residue/staining and I'd only try it over something like KAIO.



When I used FK1000P on my Yukon (most recent detail of that vehicle), I did *some* of the black plastic trim with that KAIO/FK1000P combo, but the running board faces/etc. got the Klasse twins instead (I had previously used 845 on such surfaces).
 
kramerica said:
Thanks for the option yakky. Could I top the existing 845 with #26? or opti-seal?
Click to expand...



You could top the 845 with #26, however not with opti-seal because of bonding issues. Even if you could, opti-seal is going to bring you back to the bright look of 845, not as extreme, but still. If you want something from the Optimum line, OCW would work well on top of 845 and give you the deep, wet black look.
 
You didn't do anything wrong, this is normal with 845IW. I find 476 gives a bit better depth but neither of those two are for gloss/depth and moreso for durability in my experience. 845IW does give a "bright" look though. Regardless, great waxes!
 
Since this is a 845 thread...I will add my question here...



I use 845 quite a bit as a detailer. My problem is that when applying to darker cars...it appears that when I take it off, it looks like holograms on the car in places...mainly on the hood of all places.



I do not know if I am applying it too thick or allowing it not to dry all the way or allowing it to dry too long.



Some advice would be GREAT!
 
I would assume that something like Megs 34 doesn't remove these 'grams either? I would say applying too thick myself. How long do you mean by drying too long?
 
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