Collinite 476S

qwertydude

New member
Well I decided to buy it since Harbor Freight is discontinuing it. And I like it. Surprisingly it's cheaper than 845. This stuff works good and is easy enough to apply. I decided to see how it layers. I applied it in the hot sun with a cellulose sponge with all the water squeezed out, let it dry wiped, then spritzed with water to set it. At about three layers it hides defects as well as NXT. And you see improvements in depth up till around 5 coats. Then you start to notice that the wax wants to stay on the sponge and not apply on the paint. But I put in total 7 coats of collinite on my trucks hood. Talk about shine :cool:
 
I would think 7 coats of anything should shine. Why not take some pics, not use any spray waxes, exterior detailers. etc. and do a durability report for the winter. From what I read here, you should get 6 months (to March) with this.
 
I got it from HF and also 845. I like 845 ALLOT better, 476 I really just dont care for.



I only had 1month durability on a daily drive that sits outside with no washes.
 
That would be a long wait usually I end up repolishing in 3 months since my truck is a daily driver. All collinites last that long for me but I will give a 3 month durability test for these 7 coats, as requested only washing no spray detailer/wax for the hood. Check back in 3 months for the report, should be about new years time.
 
Brandon1 said:
I got it from HF and also 845. I like 845 ALLOT better, 476 I really just dont care for.



I only had 1month durability on a daily drive that sits outside with no washes.



Hey Brandon. Everyone seems to rave about Collinite durability. I wonder why. I only made the request about durability since too many hype durability but they are always putting something on it like AW, etc.
 
I don't put anything under it or over it. It would compromise the integrity of the wax. I even do a pure 91% IPA wipedown of the panel before applying it. That way it really bonds to the paint. My collinite 845 has lasted me 6 whole months in the blazing california summer, that's on a daily driver and going through touchless carwashes too.
 
Bunky said:
.. Everyone seems to rave about Collinite durability. I wonder why. I only made the request about durability since too many hype durability but they are always putting something on it like AW, etc.



The durability of 845 can be funny...I've never tried layering it *that* much (wow, seven..that's even more than I've done with KSG), but one layer of 845 sometimes only lasts a few weeks for me. Other times, it lasts longer. So I *always* apply at least two layers and usually add more after every so many washes. The idea is to stay ahead of the curve and never let the wax really "die".



Four layers lasted months on end on a test section of my Blazer, but not as long as 476S did.



Even if you don't use a leaves-stuff-behind QD when wash/drying (and I sure *would* use it to add a little lubricity/insurance when drying), 476S, or a few layers of 845, oughta last a good long time; it *always* lasts a full Ohio winter for me, even when I was using it on an outside 24/7 car (which I did *not* QD after washing).



I dunno how much that post-wash/pre-dry QDing would impact the durability, but after the wash and *before* said QDing, the finish is still clearly "waxed", so I don't think that's any big wildcard.




Brandon01 said:
I only had 1month durability on a daily drive that sits outside with no washes.



I'm guessing that was with one layer/application of 845. I wonder if not washing it contributed to the short life :think: I find that letting [stuff] stay on the paint is a lot harder on my LSPs than washing (at least with the shampoo/methods I use).



Funny how much experiences can vary...some of these really intrigue me and I'm interested in figuring out possible explanations (so I hope nobody takes any of this stuff as an :argue ). I woulda never become a big fan of Collinite had the 476S not lasted months on end when I was parking the Volvo wagon outside, and I was kinda skeptical about the 845 being any good when it only lasted a few weeks the first time I tried it...then somebody suggested I oughta layer it and that changed things right away.
 
qwertydude said:
I don't put anything under it or over it. It would compromise the integrity of the wax. I even do a pure 91% IPA wipedown of the panel before applying it. That way it really bonds to the paint. My collinite 845 has lasted me 6 whole months in the blazing california summer, that's on a daily driver and going through touchless carwashes too.





Same here. I've found excellent durability through the cruel winter months. Very good success with KAIO followed by IW. It's a real simple, effective strategy.



The mfr sez the 476S/Fleetwax should outlive #845 aka IW, FWIW.
 
As requested here are the before shots of my absolutely flawless hood. I only polished it with M105 and went directly to Collinite after a 91% IPA wipedown. This is the hood where I previously tried #2 and DC polish to "finish" the M105 in a small area and in bright sunlight the finish was not as deep and there was just some almost indiscernable micro marring, no holograms. So I just went over the "finished area with M105 again to make it all even. So day 1 of seven coats of collinite. Looks pretty durable so far :chuckle:



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p9050091kb7.jpg
 
wow, the flake really pops, im eager to try this stuff. just havent used the sponge technique. does the wet sponge absorb less product than traditional applicator, or even the special German foam ones? I hear its for spreading thinner coats and more evenly, possibly video tutorial of how to?
 
qwertydude- I'll be interested to hear if you run into any layering issues. It's only happened *one* time for me with 476S, but when it *did* happen the resulting pseudo-holograms were a real PIA to buff out without causing any marring. Every other time I layered it things went smoothly, but that one bad experience really made an impression on me.



Intersting that you get a finish you're happy with using only the M105 (I can never really evaluate such stuff from a pic but if you're happy with it that's all that matters IMO). I always find additional burnishing/jeweling types of final polishing to be worthwhile, but hey, it's just more YMMV stuff.





sweetlou- 476S should always be applied with a damp applicator. I never find any big difference in *types* of applicators, so I'd recommend you just use whatever you like (but use it damp).
 
This is my first time with 476s but not my first time for paste waxes. I've never run into any layering issues except if I didn't let the previous coat dry completely or didn't set with water I'd get a streaky look that required lots of buffing. Those pseudo holograms from the residual oil are easily taken care of with water, in my case distilled water, since I keep a spray bottle of it for my M105 polishing technique. I often wax in the hot sun too, polish in the shade of course, since I like to make sure the wax dries completely. Never had any problems with it sticking to the paint. It always let go with minimal effort I attribute this to smooth paint. I did find that during subsequent layers of 476s that the wax came off easier and easier, although getting all the residual oils off did take lots of buffing, turning and more buffing of the cloth. No hard pressure to cause marring. I think it's due to the cellulose sponge putting a much more even and thinner coat of wax then comparable foam applicators. Foam applicators don't retain as much water as cellulose so I find that they don't coat quite as evenly as good ol' cellulose.
 
Interesting tin of 476s. I guess I have the old version which is horrible (the tin). I can't fit my applicator in there and it doesn't close tight.



I'll have to wait a while for a new tin since it'll take eons to use it up.



I get like 4 months out of 476s but it goes flat on my hood quicker. The IW lasts ages on my wheels. I just clean up with car wash soap. I guess given its intended purpose of protecting from high heat, it works great on the hot wheels.
 
qwertydude- Glad to hear you're not running into any issues layering the 476S. I still dunno what I did/didn't do that caused my issues...after 30-some years of using paste waxes you'd think I'd have it all figured out by now :D



Bigpoppa3346- Eh...I've used those kinds of sponges countless times and they've always worked fine. I suppose there's some combo of a specific sponge and a certain paint that'd be a bad idea, but generally those cellulose sponges are plenty soft and gentle, especially when damp and lubricated with wax. I know it sounds less-than-Autopian, but really, they work OK.



Spilchy- Yeah...that sure looks newfangled compared to the old 476S tins, huh?
 
When I mean flawless I mean that there are no residual polishing trails, holograms, or micro-marring from the polishing process, especially because I one step it with M105 then go to LSP.



This car is 4 years old, has 80,000 miles and sees use as a daily driver, goes off road on a semi regular basis, spent 2 years in Connecticut winters when I didn't wash it for the whole winters cause it was cold, drives lots of freeways and gets no special treatment from me other than my polishing every season. There are deep scratches here and there paint chips galore on the front, and tons of scrapes to the metal on the bed area. Yet I have everyone ask me if it's brand new still.



I really like Accumulators approach, Practical Perfectionist. That's what I'd call myself too, I don't want to polish out my deeper swirls, some of them are DEEP. I'd be thinning my paint to dangerous levels if I did every season anyways. But I mean

30 years and I think Accumulator's got the right approach. I used to keep my old saturn perfect. Lot's of polishing and even borrowed a detailer friends paint thickness guage. Turns out it's not as accurate on the plastic panels and I ended up going down to the base coat in couple areas. After that I learned to live with the deepr swirls cause by daily use. And the occasional friends sliding across the hood a la Starsky and Hutch cause it was so slick.



But I like cellulose sponges, much like a lot of people like grout sponges. I still remember the dark ages before microfibers. When people would use cotton on there cars. Sounds barbaric but some old methods still work. If I have a car where the wax won't budge I find that a cotton terry will break that wax no problem whereas microfiber wouldn't even touch it.



By the way what did the old 476s can look like? I wonder because I read on the can that it's "New, fast, easy to use..." and I thought this stuff looked ancient.
 
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