I`ve read good things about the automotivetouchup.com clearcoat pens, and always had trouble myself with dabbing dealer touchup clear coat on and it eventually coming off. If I understand it correctly, it will not interact with/delaminate clear already on the car. There are a couple of areas I would like to touch up, and wet sand/polish if the experts think it`s doable safely. First, a thin scratch that you can feel sections of with your fingernail (supposedly indicating full penetration to the color coat), but it almost disappears under little beading rainwater droplets (which supposedly is an indicator of clear coat left, unless it`s possible the water is acting as a default "clear coat` on top of color. I tried to attach the photo but it didn`t upload for some reason--this is the only of the three spots that shows up well enough on camera. Its two parallel scratches, like someone with a watch or something brushed up against it. There is another one a couple of inches below it, but the fingernail doesn`t catch on it.
There is a little pinky-nail sized chip I successfully dealt with using Dr. ColorChip, but since it has clear mixed in, it`s a little darker than the surrounding paint (otherwise it is really impressive how much of a match it is). The center of the chip is really all that was needed to be filled, as water indicated the rest of the white area was into the clearcoat.
I`m thinking I should only apply the 2000 grit to the sections of the scratch I can feel with my fingernail. What I`m wanting to do is wet sand with 2000 grit hole-punched and superglued to the eraser end of a pencil like I`ve read for very small areas, then lightly compound and polish with a micro D/A, then apply a couple coats of the clear coat pen, let it dry for 30 days, and use the same sanding/compound/polish technique to level out. My concern is not overdoing it along the carping clear coat areas that are under the touchup pen-applied areas, as it will have been somewhat thinned by the first smoothing. I`m thinking the wide end of the pen would be ideal for more insurance/coverage, since some surrounding clear will have been removed, vs the thin tip.
I`ve read some say only the sanding is needed before the clear touch up is performed, then sand/compound/polish afterwards. Does this mean the clear would hide the light sanding marks that buffing would otherwise take out? If so, it would limit clear and repair removal, but would it look just as good? Also, some scratches wrap around the door edge; is this best dealt with D/A compound/pad just being allowed to make contact without deliberately making a turn at the edge and trying to hard to focus on it?
Finally, can this technique be performed on console tambor wood slats? When my car was repainted, someone carelessly (even though I had towels laid across it expressly for protection and I explained it) stowed the C-pillar sail panels across it and the clips scratched the pristine wood, across two slats. Rather than having the whole thing refinished and risking further damage/unnecessary time, if the same thing can carefully be done in a way that doesn`t round off the laser sharp slat edges that would be great. Would using the edge of the micro on rotary mode at an angle very lightly be a way to deal with it without dismantling all the slats? And, would even finishing polish be a way to match the factory gloss? It`s an isolated area but bugs me.
Thanks,
Drew
There is a little pinky-nail sized chip I successfully dealt with using Dr. ColorChip, but since it has clear mixed in, it`s a little darker than the surrounding paint (otherwise it is really impressive how much of a match it is). The center of the chip is really all that was needed to be filled, as water indicated the rest of the white area was into the clearcoat.
I`m thinking I should only apply the 2000 grit to the sections of the scratch I can feel with my fingernail. What I`m wanting to do is wet sand with 2000 grit hole-punched and superglued to the eraser end of a pencil like I`ve read for very small areas, then lightly compound and polish with a micro D/A, then apply a couple coats of the clear coat pen, let it dry for 30 days, and use the same sanding/compound/polish technique to level out. My concern is not overdoing it along the carping clear coat areas that are under the touchup pen-applied areas, as it will have been somewhat thinned by the first smoothing. I`m thinking the wide end of the pen would be ideal for more insurance/coverage, since some surrounding clear will have been removed, vs the thin tip.
I`ve read some say only the sanding is needed before the clear touch up is performed, then sand/compound/polish afterwards. Does this mean the clear would hide the light sanding marks that buffing would otherwise take out? If so, it would limit clear and repair removal, but would it look just as good? Also, some scratches wrap around the door edge; is this best dealt with D/A compound/pad just being allowed to make contact without deliberately making a turn at the edge and trying to hard to focus on it?
Finally, can this technique be performed on console tambor wood slats? When my car was repainted, someone carelessly (even though I had towels laid across it expressly for protection and I explained it) stowed the C-pillar sail panels across it and the clips scratched the pristine wood, across two slats. Rather than having the whole thing refinished and risking further damage/unnecessary time, if the same thing can carefully be done in a way that doesn`t round off the laser sharp slat edges that would be great. Would using the edge of the micro on rotary mode at an angle very lightly be a way to deal with it without dismantling all the slats? And, would even finishing polish be a way to match the factory gloss? It`s an isolated area but bugs me.
Thanks,
Drew
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