Clay bar questions

A

AustinGuy

New member
I used a clay bar for the first time yesterday. I used Clay Magic's fine grade clay (blue one).



The package came in a 100gm size, I cut it in half so that I could save a little in case it fell or got very soiled. I had a hard time with it. I found the clay very rigid - not easy to bend/re-form. I also found it a little sticky. I used good amounts of the CM lube.



- Anyone know if Clay Magic is the best brand (and easiest to work with)?



- Is there a special technique other than the back/forth motions? I found the 100gm really small and when I cut it in half (approx. 50 gm) I found it really hard to work with.



- How do you know when it's time to throw the bar away vs. remolding/reusing?



- The lube left a lot of spotting. I guess, after I waxed the car, the spotting was invisible
 
I used Maguires aggressive clay and it seemed to move along the surface just fine.. I had a lot of contaminants on my surface though (rail dust i am thinking). Never the less, it worked well and i am planning to order more for future use.
 
Anybody have any more input on this?



I was looking at the Pinnacle Poly clay stuff.... how is that compared to Chemical Guys or Clay Magic? Again, at what point is a bar considered too soiled/contaminated and should be dumped?
 
When you can no longer reform it to a clean surface.

You should not turn it to other side while claying when it gets too dirty and needs to be folded and reformed.
 
Ignition said:
When you can no longer reform it to a clean surface.

You should not turn it to other side while claying when it gets too dirty and needs to be folded and reformed.
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Not sure I quite understand.



When you're claying using 1 side, I assume you can turn it to the other (clean) side and use it. When both sides are dirty you can reform/re-mold and go again, right? Or are you saying that once both sides are dirty it's time to pitch it?:eek: ..... I hope not - cuz. if that's the case I'd go through about 15 bars in one sitting!
 
Yeah, flip it to the clean side. I usually clay with car wash, so I try to rinse and rub the used surface in the rinse bucket before kneading. I also try to use really small pieces so when it gets dirty or dropped you just toss it. Instead of cutting it in half, try thirds or quarters.
 
AustinGuy said:
The package came in a 100gm size, I cut it in half so that I could save a little in case it fell or got very soiled. I had a hard time with it. I found the clay very rigid - not easy to bend/re-form. I also found it a little sticky. I used good amounts of the CM lube.



- Anyone know if Clay Magic is the best brand (and easiest to work with)?



- Is there a special technique other than the back/forth motions? I found the 100gm really small and when I cut it in half (approx. 50 gm) I found it really hard to work with.



- How do you know when it's time to throw the bar away vs. remolding/reusing?



- The lube left a lot of spotting. I guess, after I waxed the car, the spotting was invisible
Click to expand...



Smaller pieces are definately harder to kneed. I really don't like using pieces any smaller than the 100gm size. As a matter of fact, when you buy Clay Magic ala carte, it usually comes as a 200gm bar. Many times I don't even portion that size out. I have also noticed that CM is kinda sticky brand new, right off the wrapper, but once it's used or kneeded it goes away. If CM gets stiff(usually because of cold temps), I run it under hot water. Once you start using it, it loosens up again too. I feel stongly that CM is the best and purest form of clay sold in the U.S. right now. Auto Wax (owner of CM brand) private labels different variations for resale, but I really think they aren't as balanced and well behaved as CM. There's really not a private labeled version identical to CM. The lube(Body Shine) will leave spotting residue, especially if used in the sun, but it will wipe away pretty easily. I like to re-rinse the vehicle to make sure all the residual reminants are off the finish. I stop using clay when it stops working. Even if it has darkened, it doesn't mean it should not be used. Discoloration is dependent on the contaminants you're pulling off the finish. When I make the decision to retire it for paint duty, it gets transfered to wheels/glass/chrome. Hope this helps.
 
AustinGuy said:
When you're claying using 1 side, I assume you can turn it to the other (clean) side and use it. When both sides are dirty you can reform/re-mold and go again, right? Or are you saying that once both sides are dirty it's time to pitch it?:eek: ..... I hope not - cuz. if that's the case I'd go through about 15 bars in one sitting!
Click to expand...



Well that's not quite what I meant, I usually reform it once the other side gets too dirty. Not that I'd discard it. Maybe it's just me being overly cautious.. but I found out that if I'd just flip it and use both sides, then I'd be spending quite a while kneading the clay trying to get clean surface again. There are different methods ofcourse. See what works for you. :)
 
David Fermani said:
Smaller pieces are definately harder to kneed. I really don't like using pieces any smaller than the 100gm size. As a matter of fact, when you buy Clay Magic ala carte, it usually comes as a 200gm bar. Many times I don't even portion that size out. I have also noticed that CM is kinda sticky brand new, right off the wrapper, but once it's used or kneeded it goes away. If CM gets stiff(usually because of cold temps), I run it under hot water. Once you start using it, it loosens up again too. I feel stongly that CM is the best and purest form of clay sold in the U.S. right now. Auto Wax (owner of CM brand) private labels different variations for resale, but I really think they aren't as balanced and well behaved as CM. There's really not a private labeled version identical to CM. The lube(Body Shine) will leave spotting residue, especially if used in the sun, but it will wipe away pretty easily. I like to re-rinse the vehicle to make sure all the residual reminants are off the finish. I stop using clay when it stops working. Even if it has darkened, it doesn't mean it should not be used. Discoloration is dependent on the contaminants you're pulling off the finish. When I make the decision to retire it for paint duty, it gets transfered to wheels/glass/chrome. Hope this helps.
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David,



Thanks for the detailed response. Very helpful.



What do you mean by "I stop using clay when it stops working". How exactly does one know when it stops working? That's where I had the hardest time.



You also mention re-using old/contaminated clay for wheels/glass/chrome. I didn't know you could use it on those materials. I guess you don't hear too much about clay being used on those surfaces. Can you elaborate a little on how effective it is?



For glass (tinted windows ), I use Stoner's IG but quite honestly, for as much hype as Stoner's IG receives, I've not been too impressed with it - found that it doesn't clean grime especially on the ext. and also found it to leave streaks. What's your take on this? Any product you could recommend?
 
I keep mine in a plastic bag (clean). They say you suppose to spray it with lube and use the container. But doesnt that leak?
 
I keep mine in a plastic travel soap container i found at wal-mart
biggrin.gif
 
Robb said:
I keep mine in a plastic travel soap container i found at wal-mart
biggrin.gif
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Hmmm. Thats actually a neat idea. If only the box that came with it held in water. It looks cool. Too bad....
 
bf poly clay is pretty similar. Pretty large bar though (8oz) so i break that one down. Very rigid like someone said, but it stops working when its no longer removing contaminants. comes with a case too :)
 
I use CM clay and like it. I don't use their lube though, onr or claying while washing works just fine. My method to kneading the clay is to get one side dirty and then fold it in half so i have 2 clean sides again. In theory, if you keep doing this you will always have clean clay unless you get both sides dirty some how.



I have found (and maybe i'm wrong here) that you can wash out a CM clay bar with a light soap and warm water. I just stretch out the clay really thin under the warm water, soap it up, rinse, dry, and i'm good to go. I have used it on about 8 cars, washed it twice and it is just now starting to wear out.
 
I still have a case of ClayMagic Blue clays and they always seem to work well once cut up and kneeded well when warm.



Another clay I use for fine work is he Sonus SFX Ultra Fine clay.



I store all clay in plastic containers like Glad and others. If you put plastic wrap on it, you'll find it impossible to remove it fully unless it's a very heavy plastic wrap.



I work on small areas at a time. Not trying to cover too much finish at once. Also, inspect the clay often and keep kneeding it and toss it if you start to feel anything hard/sharp on it, or in it. I also wear neoprene gloves to give a better feel and to protect my hands and as well as the clay from the oils.dirt from my hands when I clay.



Zaino clay has always worked well. The red clay seem better than previous ones.



Deanski
 
How many years the un-opened clay can be stored? I have 3 + years old clays in the package and am thinking about using them now.
 
First off there are 2 types of clay generally. One is more like modeling clay we used as kids and the other is more like a plastic clay and each come in several grades. (I am leaving out the new elsatrofoam blocks) In cold weather both are harder to work with. I would jnot reccommend claying below 40 degrees. Not only is it hard to do, but if you plan on waxing or sealing after ward, you getinto adhesion issues.



I prefer using the one that resembles real clay. I have never used anything more than fine grade and it does the job. Always use the fines least agressive product that gets you the results your after.



I also cut my bars in half. Once I flatten the 1/2 bar out its plenty big for me. I find it easier to fold and knead when thinner. If its cold out i just hold the clay for a minute in my hand and your body heat should be enough to warm the clay to a point wher you can get it to do what you want.



Once I see that after folding I cannot get a clean (uncontaminated" surface. I set the clay aside and use it for wheels, then fender lips, exhaust pipes and dirty jobs.



A bar should last a few cars depending on how dirty and contaminated thay are.



I used 1/2 oz of car wash with 32 oz of water in a sprayer as lube. Works just as well as the "lube you buy, but I find that O dont mind over using it since I can make more fast and cheap. By using more you have a more slipery surface to work with and it is less damaging.
 
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