Chrome plating

rockford33

rockford33

New member
A few questions here...

1. Anyone here in Maryland know of a good place to get things chrome plated near the Baltimore area? I am looking at getting my AC compressor housing, thermostat, and alternator housing chrome plated.

2. For parts that are not easily chromed (radiator cap, fuel rail, etc.), how do you keep them looking nice and polished? I have polished my radiator cap before, but a week later it is dull again. I was thinking something like sold here (http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=246) would keep them from re-oxidizing by sealing the surface.

Thanks guys. Any help for restoring/beautifying engine bays that you can think of are appreciated.

-Neil
 
I know they make a Hi Temp Clear Coat paint! (like engine block paint) The only problem I have seen with this method is after a while it starts to Yellow!

As far as Chrome plating! ... Give one of your local Motorcycle places a call! They should be able to hook you upw with someone that can help you out!

Just so your aware! Chrome plating can be expensive. If your not in a rush for the parts .... you may want to ask if they can keep them on the side untill they are putting a big order thrugh to keep the cost down!
 
That stuff from POR15 is not supposed to yellow. Also some some stuff at Eastwoods, the is not supposed to yellow either. The Eastwood stuff was an aerosol, so it might be a little easier to apply with the parts off of the car.

I sent an email to a chrome plater nearby to get a ballpark estimate for the three parts. Haven't heard back from them yet. If I don't hear back, I might buy some buffing bobs for my drill and polish the stuff up myself. I'd like a bench buffer/grinder, but unfortunately I don't have room for a bench in my garage :(

Thanks for the tips.
 
Well, I took the plunge and bought a bench grinder. I ended up clearing some space for it on a shelving/cabinet system I have along one wall of the garage (should be sturdy enough). Ordered some 6" buffing wheels and Metal Clear from Eastwood, so we will see how everything turns out. I am going to start with my thermostat housing, since that is the smallest, easiest-to-remove, and easiest-to-replace part. I'll be sure to take some before and after pics in case anyone is interested in how it turns out. I also ordered "The Art of Buffing" DVD from Eastwood, so hopefully it will be worth the money.

-Neil
 
rockford33 said:
Well, I took the plunge and bought a bench grinder. I ended up clearing some space for it on a shelving/cabinet system I have along one wall of the garage (should be sturdy enough). .......
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A bench grinder does come in very handy. If you find that the shelf isn't working out here is a stand for $22. I have one and it works out fine, plus I can move it outside to keep the mess out of the garage if I'm doing a lot of work with it:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42986
 
They had a nice grinder bench at Sears for $29. Being in a townhouse garage though, space is at a premium. I might be able to squeeze it in if I do some re-arranging. It sounds as if you have used a grinder before? Do they produce a lot of splatter? I'm thinking I might need to cover my car with something to avoid splatter, etc. from hitting the paint and windows.
 
rockford33 said:
.......Do they produce a lot of splatter? I'm thinking I might need to cover my car with something to avoid splatter, etc. from hitting the paint and windows.
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I would cover up your car, there can be a lot of stuff flying around if you use it to grind or wire brush. Using a hard buff compound with a sewn buffing wheel isn't as bad, but if you're going to use a liquid polish I'd cover things up, or take it outside the garage. You can pick up some good tips from Eastwood if you search around their site:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=434
 
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