Choosing a new polisher. Flex 3401 or Dewalt 849x with dynabrade ?

D

DaC

New member
Guys I've already owned a GG 6 ROP and now a G110v2. But I really want to step a little faster on the job, and I usually work on very soft paints.

I'm with my eyes on 2 polishers

One is a Flex 3401 and the other is a Dewalt 849x. I was thinking about getting both, but I decided to search a little more about the dynabrade and found much love here on autopia for it.



Questions are:

- If you were me, what would you choose ? Dewalt 849x with dynabrade or the Flex 3401 (not considering the money factor) ? Maybe both ?

- I've seen some experienced users talking about the forced rotation on the dynabrade as unstable..... question is... without the forced rotation on the dynabrade will it still be faster than a Flex 3401 ?

- What would be the speed range you would work with the dynabrade and a Dewalt 849x ? (the dynabrade website states 3200 rpm is the max if I'm not reading it wrong).
 
Mush-Mouth said:
Can't what you currently have do the job? A lot of pro detailers seem to make it work.
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What I have atm is a Meguiar's G110v2 DA, it's a great machine, but I want something that will do the job faster.

I've heard many guys claiming that a DA with MF pads are great and fast enough, but working on very soft paints with a cutting MF pad is not an option really, it won't finish well and another pass would be required.

I'm mainly doing 1 step polishing then sealing/waxing jobs.
 
dacavalcante said:
Guys I've already owned a GG 6 ROP and now a G110v2. But I really want to step a little faster on the job, and I usually work on very soft paints.

I'm with my eyes on 2 polishers

One is a Flex 3401 and the other is a Dewalt 849x. I was thinking about getting both, but I decided to search a little more about the dynabrade and found much love here on autopia for it.



Questions are:

- If you were me, what would you choose ? Dewalt 849x with dynabrade or the Flex 3401 (not considering the money factor) ? Maybe both ?

- I've seen some experienced users talking about the forced rotation on the dynabrade as unstable..... question is... without the forced rotation on the dynabrade will it still be faster than a Flex 3401 ?

- What would be the speed range you would work with the dynabrade and a Dewalt 849x ? (the dynabrade website states 3200 rpm is the max if I'm not reading it wrong).
Click to expand...



Since you have a G110v2 Stick with that and use it for smaller panels on a 3 inch pad setup. Next I would forget the flex and go with the Dewalt and the Dynabrade. The dynabrade is a machine that will destroy swirls fast. The issue with this machine is the fact that when people get it they want to use smaller pads. Its designed to handle larger pads. Larger pads with help with the balance of the machine. I highly recomend picking up these pads here below if you do get it.



7.5" Orange Flat Cutting Pad - 40 ppi



Grab a few of the orange and a few of the green. These pads have a ring in the back that make for perfect centering on any 6 inch backing plate. You'll also need a 6 inch Dual Action Backing Plate that is threaded to 5/16. to run with the dynabrade.



What makes this nice is the fact that you now have a solid rotory and also forced rotation of the dynabrade. Both the machine and the dynabrade are built to last. Good luck on your adventure.
 
Barry Theal said:
Since you have a G110v2 Stick with that and use it for smaller panels on a 3 inch pad setup. Next I would forget the flex and go with the Dewalt and the Dynabrade. The dynabrade is a machine that will destroy swirls fast. The issue with this machine is the fact that when people get it they want to use smaller pads. Its designed to handle larger pads. Larger pads with help with the balance of the machine. I highly recomend picking up these pads here below if you do get it.



7.5" Orange Flat Cutting Pad - 40 ppi



Grab a few of the orange and a few of the green. These pads have a ring in the back that make for perfect centering on any 6 inch backing plate. You'll also need a 6 inch Dual Action Backing Plate that is threaded to 5/16. to run with the dynabrade.



What makes this nice is the fact that you now have a solid rotory and also forced rotation of the dynabrade. Both the machine and the dynabrade are built to last. Good luck on your adventure.
Click to expand...



Hello Barry, thank you very much for replying, I was actually hoping to hear from you, as you seem to be the one with the most experience with dynabrade here.

I plan to stick to my G110v2... one thing I've learned from selling the Griots is that you don't sell a machine to buy another from a different type... "=]



- What would be the most recommended dynabrade for the 849x ? I assume the 61384 is the right one for the dewalt thread, right ?

- How about 6.5" pads ? Too small ?

- I guess I just run the rotary with the dynabrade as I would use a regular DA polisher, right ?
 
6.5 inch pads are fine. You want Part Number 61384 Dynabrade Dual Action Buffing head. Also check this link out. http://www.autopia.org/forum/machin...16649-dynabrade-dual-action-buffing-head.html I will tell you this once you use this machine you will not look back.



Here is a picture of the Dynabrade at there Best! lol This is Eric Witt, David Purser and myself humming the Dynabrades.



DSC_0470.jpg
 
Dan the one you have will rock the house on Sanding. The throw of the stroke isn't large enough to fully polish with. Have you tried it for sanding?
 
Wow! Nice Pic! I wish one day I'll be as pro as you guys to deserve being polishing cars like that.



So 6.5" are fine but a little unstable ? or it would be as stable as a 7.5" pad on it ?





Diego



Barry Theal said:
6.5 inch pads are fine. You want Part Number 61384 Dynabrade Dual Action Buffing head. Also check this link out. http://www.autopia.org/forum/machin...16649-dynabrade-dual-action-buffing-head.html I will tell you this once you use this machine you will not look back.



Here is a picture of the Dynabrade at there Best! lol This is Eric Witt, David Purser and myself humming the Dynabrades.



DSC_0470.jpg
Click to expand...
 
6.5 five inch pads are great, but those 7.5 I linked you to are Bad Asss with the Dynabrade. Its just the right balance.
 
Mush-Mouth said:
Can't what you currently have do the job? A lot of pro detailers seem to make it work.
Click to expand...



Your right how most pros SEEM to make it work, but keep in mind as a professional I personally feel you can't have enought tools in your arsenal. What are your thoughts?
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
Wrote down the wrong part #. I have the 61384.
Click to expand...



Shoot me a PM with a price. "=]

This is the 3/4" orbit, forced and free orbit rotation, right ?



Barry Theal said:
6.5 five inch pads are great, but those 7.5 I linked you to are Bad Asss with the Dynabrade. Its just the right balance.
Click to expand...





Thank you Barry.

I really want to give these pads you've linked a try.
 
D&D Auto Detail said:
Wrote down the wrong part #. I have the 61384.
Click to expand...



Check your PMs... reply me with the price of it.



D&D Auto Detail said:
The # on the head is 61379, the receipt says 61384.



Dynabrade%2061384.jpg
Click to expand...



Barry Theal said:
That should sell fast!!!



I'd start a new thread.
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Yeah, I'll probably buy it.



Is there any way to get some %off on those 7.5" pads ?
 
Barry Theal said:
Your right how most pros SEEM to make it work, but keep in mind as a professional I personally feel you can't have enought tools in your arsenal. What are your thoughts?
Click to expand...



Plenty of people have told me that I *should* be able to do all sorts of stuff with certain polishers (e.g., PC with 6" pads and M105 via KBM...), but it didn't work out that way :grinno:



I have *never* regretted buying more powerful polishers.



Hey, I'm even tempted to get a Dynabrade, even though I have all the bases covered pretty well now and hardly ever do correction anyhow!



dacavalcante- The only thing that has me a little :confused: here is that you apparently sold a GG6" and are considering a Flex3401 for use on soft clear. I wouldn't want to be finishing out with that Flex, let alone on soft paint (and I *do* like my Flex 3401, just not for that). You OK with the Meg's unit for the final polishing?
 
Accumulator said:
Plenty of people have told me that I *should* be able to do all sorts of stuff with certain polishers (e.g., PC with 6" pads and M105 via KBM...), but it didn't work out that way :grinno:



I have *never* regretted buying more powerful polishers.



Hey, I'm even tempted to get a Dynabrade, even though I have all the bases covered pretty well now and hardly ever do correction anyhow!



dacavalcante- The only thing that has me a little :confused: here is that you apparently sold a GG6" and are considering a Flex3401 for use on soft clear. I wouldn't want to be finishing out with that Flex, let alone on soft paint (and I *do* like my Flex 3401, just not for that). You OK with the Meg's unit for the final polishing?
Click to expand...



Yes, I can finish very nice with the G110v2.

When I was on the Griot's I couldn't.... but it was my fault... too much pressure, probably, as the machine was very powerful... I was only able to finish without haze with a black or crimson pad with PO85RD.



Now with the g110v2, I was able to finish without haze 2 cars already using M205 + crimson pad. M205 + tangerine already left some light haze, although not something considered problematic for DD.



The type of paint I work will easily get free from swirls with m205 and a crimson pad, or even with po85rd.... although RIDs won't go away without wet sanding (something I've never tried to the moment BTW)



I've red about the 3401 being poor on finishing on soft paints..... unless it's very poor it's a problem, if it leaves just a little haze.... well... I don't think it will be a problem, unless I'm working with garage queens, but I haven't yet faced a car like that, just DD.... so.... on soft paints, honda like, is it that bad or just not 100% perfect haze free ?



The thing is.... I'm taking 10-12 hours to finish a simple wash, clay, tape, 1 step polish, wax or seal job..... on a car like a honda civic.....

1 hour - Wash

1 hour - Clay

1.5 hour - tape

5-7 hours - 1 step polish

1.5 hour - wax/seal



As a newbie (only did 11 cars so far), I do recognize my technique is not top notch and I do lose a lot of time inspecting with the Brinkmann, cleaning the pad on the fly and moving around after a polish bottle, after each section pass.

So I know I have to get my work flow right.... but anyway, I want to go faster through polishing without loosing quality and also being able to correct a bigger variate of problems... that's way I'm thinking on the 3401 or the 849x with dynabrade



Also I get pretty tried from all the noise and vibration from these DA polishers.... I'll probably have the same vibration issue with the dynabrade, but less noise on the machine..... and it will sure be heavier, but the Griot's was already close on weight of a 849x + dynabrade anyway, and I could handle it....



And I might also get into partnership with a car wash, for production detail.... and I can't see myself doing a car in 4 to 6 hours with a g110v2....



What's your take on my case ?
 
dacavalcante- I don't work on soft clear, so I can't really speak to many of your concerns. But I'm not quite happy with the finish my Flex 3401 leaves so I'd expect to do that final polishing with your G110. It's sure not like it's leaving "haze" or anything like that (only very aggressive correction does that for me) but it's just not quite "right" to my eyes and the final polishing with the GG or a Cyclo gives me what I want.



The Flex 3401 is significantly more powerful, and more problematic with regard to finishing, than the Griot's though, at least IME. Just don't want you to buy the wrong thing...



And just FWIW, if you thought the GG was heavy, I suspect you'll find the rotary + Dynabrade to be *very* heavy. Even the Flex 3401 is heavier, and significantly more challenging to handle, than the GG. Or at least that's how it seems to me, I never thought the GG had any vibration/weight/etc. to speak of, maybe because it's so much better than my PCs.



But the Flex 3401 has a significant, uhm..."recoil" to it that some people (not me) find bothersome.



As for the time....IMO it just takes as long as it takes. Heh heh, I can't wash anything in just an hour, not even close! If I do it in that time I'll mar it up something awful (making any correction both necessary and even harder).



As for the time, the taping will go a *lot* faster with practice and you'll learn to do many areas without taping at all.



What makes the polishing take so long (not saying I don't spend at least as long, but my situation is different)? IF the paint is that soft, one aggressive pass to correct to like 85-90%, followed by one light pass to finish....wouldn't that do it?



The LSPing oughta go faster than that though. I might spend that long on a *big* vehicle, or one where I'm doing all the out-of-the-way places too or otherwise being really Autopian about it, but for a "normal waxing" you oughta be able to do it a lot quicker than 1-1.5 hrs once you get your routine squared away. Wipe on, let haze, buff off, done.
 
Accumulator said:
dacavalcante- I don't work on soft clear, so I can't really speak to many of your concerns. But I'm not quite happy with the finish my Flex 3401 leaves so I'd expect to do that final polishing with your G110. It's sure not like it's leaving "haze" or anything like that (only very aggressive correction does that for me) but it's just not quite "right" to my eyes and the final polishing with the GG or a Cyclo gives me what I want.



The Flex 3401 is significantly more powerful, and more problematic with regard to finishing, than the Griot's though, at least IME. Just don't want you to buy the wrong thing...



And just FWIW, if you thought the GG was heavy, I suspect you'll find the rotary + Dynabrade to be *very* heavy. Even the Flex 3401 is heavier, and significantly more challenging to handle, than the GG. Or at least that's how it seems to me, I never thought the GG had any vibration/weight/etc. to speak of, maybe because it's so much better than my PCs.



But the Flex 3401 has a significant, uhm..."recoil" to it that some people (not me) find bothersome.



As for the time....IMO it just takes as long as it takes. Heh heh, I can't wash anything in just an hour, not even close! If I do it in that time I'll mar it up something awful (making any correction both necessary and even harder).



As for the time, the taping will go a *lot* faster with practice and you'll learn to do many areas without taping at all.



What makes the polishing take so long (not saying I don't spend at least as long, but my situation is different)? IF the paint is that soft, one aggressive pass to correct to like 85-90%, followed by one light pass to finish....wouldn't that do it?



The LSPing oughta go faster than that though. I might spend that long on a *big* vehicle, or one where I'm doing all the out-of-the-way places too or otherwise being really Autopian about it, but for a "normal waxing" you oughta be able to do it a lot quicker than 1-1.5 hrs once you get your routine squared away. Wipe on, let haze, buff off, done.
Click to expand...



Well... I guess I'm to blame not experimenting too much as I'm polishing the car.....

But for example, the last one, last sunday... I first started doing 5 passes on speed 5 with pressure then 2 with light pressure than 2 on speed 3 with almost no pressure...

Much later on the polishing I realized I could get the same result doing 4 passes on pressure and 2 with light pressure, without going to speed 3....

To tell you the truth it would have had even worked with 3-2... but I haven't tested it on that car....

I guess I keep trying to correct RIDs when I should aim on swirls only.... and swirls will take much less passes than RIDs.... as the type of work I'm doing are supposed to be simple 1 step polish.



I'm pretty worried about going wrong with both options.... Well.. the griots was heavy, but not to the point I could complain... if I'm right, the Griots ROP has around 7.4lbs while the Dewalt 849x around 6.8lbs + 1.5lbs from the dynabrade... it's not that much more than the griots.... I'm a bodybuilding type guy, I'm not that skinny.... LoL....



Do you think in my case, using a M105 on a tangerine pad to do a quick correction than following with m205 on a crimson pad, be a better option than going straight to m205 and doing more passes per section ?



If I did understood it right, you're thinking I might be wanting both machines for the wrong reason ? "=]



BTW, my GG 6 ROP vibrated that much.... to me it's too much.... I tend to think the flex or a rotary (even with dynabrade), would be a lot gentler.

 
Hi Barry



I've got two Dynabrade's. A 61385 (14mm version of the 84) and a 61375 which is RO mode only

Don't have a Flex at present but I'd hate to have to finish with a Flex. forced rotation just aint the right mode for finishing. can be done for jewelling but not the last step



I use both dynabrades on two separate makita 9227s with 240volt power. Using 125mm/5inch, 150mm/6 inch and up to 8 inch pads on both of them



The 125mm is fine if you have a reasonably thick pad on it but it can be a little unbalanced with thin pads

My favourite combo on the 84 is a 150mm rayon pad without and sometimes with a sanding interface pad. the rayon pads do not have any foam backing and are very flat and meant for glass.



so anything from 150mm/6 inch upwards is best.

yes the rotary with DB is noisy but worth it. Annihilate orange peel on some paints in no time with those.



My speeds are - forced rotation. 1 or 2 most of the time, 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 for certain situations





Random mode - speed 6 down to 5,4 and 3 to correct and for polishing - speed 4 1/2 down slowly to 3 over time
 
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