car washing question

z28s

New member
when washing, is there any "safe"way to remove the dirt and mud that has accumulated on a car that has been driven in rain on muddy streets?... i.e..to prevent fine scratches on the finish...thanks
 
That stage one stuff doesn't seem too amazing, maybe its just me. It seems like you could do that with just some QD or a spray bottle of your car wash soap and water.



Rinse the car really well first, maybe even use 3 buckets instead of 2 (1 soap/2 rinse), and probably a couple wash mits. Slow steady and gentle.
 
IF your really worried, the 2 bucket method is superb for washing. Key thing here is to make sure the car is fully rinsed down with water(or a soap and water mix in a sprayer or mr clean auto dry thingermajiger) before you even touch the paint with the soapy mitt. In your rinse bucket, you want to have a grit guard(ill be picking one up soon) to prevent any dirt that stays in the mitt after dipping it in the rinse solution.



This alone should eliminate 90% of your wash-induced swirls. Just remember to rinse each panel off before you touch it, since dust can settle on the paint when you least expect it.
 
UnsanePyro said:
That stage one stuff doesn't seem too amazing, maybe its just me...



Yeah, I used it for the second time last night and it only works when a) there's little buildup on the panels and, b) when you have a slick LSP that resists contamination's adherence in the first place.



Washing a really dirty car without marring it is extremely difficult. Presoaking *can* help, but I dunno if that Stage I stuff is really any better than regular shampoo with a foamgun.



Accumulator's predictable, long-winded take on washing follows:



I'd use a foamgun to provide constant lubrication. I'd even put it *inside* the mitt. And I'd still rinse the mitt per usual. As soon as the mitt doesn't rinse spotlessly clean get another one. Be prepared to rinse/replace the mitt before you've even finished *one* panel. When I washed my wife's A8 yesterday I used six mitts, and that's even with using BHBs for the initial work on the dirtiest portions. And her car wasn't very dirty.



See that pic in the bettercarcare link where the guy is rubbing the sheepskin across the dirty car? That would mar the finish if there were much dirt on the panel. You gotta *gently dislodge* the dirt and *flush it* off the panel. You can't "scrub" or "wipe" it off or you'll scratch the paint. The pressure exerted by a wet mitt being dragged across the panel, with all the mitt's weight bearing down on the dirt, could easily cause abrasive dirt to scratch. You don't want pressure forcing the dirt against the paint.



It's like when you get sand in your eyes. You'd be better off rinsing it out with high-lubricity eye drops than you would be if you tried to clear it out by just rubbing your eyes with only your tears or plain water to lubricate things. And even with the eye drops, you wouldn't want to rub your eyes until you'd gotten most of the sand out.



At least use a mitt this way: dunk the mitt in the soap solution with the cuff open and pointing up- the mitt will fill up with solution. Hold the cuff shut, and pull the soap-filled mitt out of the wash bucket- this is how you'll hold the mitt, by the closed cuff. Whisk the mitt across the panel while the soapy water drains out of it. THe flow of soapy water will help carry the dirt off the panel. Do a small area (and stop when the mitt is empty) so dirt doesn't build up on the mitt. Rinse the mitt, inspect it for dirt, and repeat until you get all the dirt off. Never let the full weight of the wet mitt bear down on the paint until you get most of the dirt off (if at all).



I the above wasn't clear I'll be happy to answer Qs though what I post about washing is often more than people really want to know :o
 
z28s said:
when washing, is there any "safe"way to remove the dirt and mud that has accumulated on a car that has been driven in rain on muddy streets?... i.e..to prevent fine scratches on the finish...thanks



Actually, when I drive my car in the rain, I usually rinse it off with a couple buckets of straight water before the dirty water has a chance ot dry on the paint. This way there is hardly any dirt left on the paint when I wash it.

With a good layer of protection on the paint, the water will just sheet right off, carrying most, or all, of the dirt right off.
 
Gentle?! Spray the crap off! Then grab 2 buckets, one for soap and other for rinsing. If it's majoraly muddy. Like if you went bajaing, then take it to a bay to get rinsed. Anyways, Have two or three MF or Chennille mits. None of your old high school t-shirts. Use a good soap like Sonus, P21S or Meg's Gold Class. I suggest Sonus. It makes a BIG difference on getting contamints of your car. Rinsing is a major part of getting off the big contamints. Don't we all wish we could wash with hot water. When you get a mit dirty switch sides or mits. When rinsing use a good chamois. I like lambs leather. I have a couple of Sonus drying towels. Both you can only use one and dry the whole car.

I have 4 coats of SG on my car. It stops contamints from sticking and eating your clear coat. A must for keeping your paint looking new.
 
audipower said:
Gentle?! Spray the crap off! Then grab 2 buckets, one for soap and other for rinsing. If it's majoraly muddy. Like if you went bajaing, then take it to a bay to get rinsed. Anyways, Have two or three MF or Chennille mits. None of your old high school t-shirts. Use a good soap like Sonus, P21S or Meg's Gold Class. I suggest Sonus. It makes a BIG difference on getting contamints of your car. Rinsing is a major part of getting off the big contamints. Don't we all wish we could wash with hot water. When you get a mit dirty switch sides or mits. When rinsing use a good chamois. I like lambs leather. I have a couple of Sonus drying towels. Both you can only use one and dry the whole car.

I have 4 coats of SG on my car. It stops contamints from sticking and eating your clear coat. A must for keeping your paint looking new.



QFT!
 
audipower said:
Don't we all wish we could wash with hot water...



Since you're setting up your new shop, I'd put in a dedicated water heater. I got a pretty big one so I can do as much work as I need to without running out.
 
To reduce the risk of scratching paint finish start by thoroughly rinsing the vehicle to remove loose surface dirt and grime, use a gentle spray (Ultimate Nozzle) you don't want to cause abrasion to the paint surface, take your time and be careful and you'll avoid paint damage.



a.k.a. Patrick- Gentle hi pressure.....Two buckets and washmitts.....Im starting to like the Gritguard also, alot.....

:xyxthumbs
 
I always start with a good rinse to remove as much dirt as possible. I then use two buckets and two wash mitts for the body and a seperate bucket and 16 x 16 MF towels for the wheels.



The key for me is to not apply any pressure on the paint with the mitt. I let the weight of the mitt do the work. Also rinse the mitt often in the rinse bucket. I make one swipe than flip the mitt to the clean side and make another swipe than rinse the mitt and repeat. This way I always have a clean mitt on the paint. This is a long slow process. Takes me at least two hours to wash and dry the car.



When I dry I sheet the water off the car and use Waffle Weave MF towels to blot dry the rest.
 
TOGWT said:
To reduce the risk of scratching paint finish start by thoroughly rinsing the vehicle to remove loose surface dirt and grime, use a gentle spray (Ultimate Nozzle) you don't want to cause abrasion to the paint surface, take your time and be careful and you'll avoid paint damage.



a.k.a. Patrick- Gentle hi pressure.....Two buckets and washmitts.....Im starting to like the Gritguard also, alot.....

:xyxthumbs



Jon, thanks for clarifying why "gentle" is important....

That GG also works excellent for cleaning pads !

You actually put the pad in the bucket with your fav cleaning solution, and then place gritguard upside down on pad(grill side, not stand side) and gently push up and down to disperse products, do this several times with each pad, viola!! Continue treatment twice with rinse water, then stand on side on GG in bucket so they dry....
 
It actually works like a baffle, the bottom doesnt get stirred up as much, thus stirring the dirt up. The manufacturer also advises "wiping/brushing" your washmit on the grate ever time you dip it in the bucket to help remove foreign matter.....
 
93zder said:
That seems pretty slick. Does it really work though ?



I normally don't place my sponge too deep in the bucket anyhow so as to not stir up the grit at the bottom.

One advantage to a grit guard is the ability to rub your wash mitt over it to dislodge any (well, for lack of a better term) grit.



I also like the idea of using it to clean PC pads as Patrick described a couple of posts up. I haven't tried doing it that way, but it sounds like it may work.



For $10 it's a good investment if it only saves you one scratch or marr every six months.
 
audipower said:
Rinsing is a major part of getting off the big contamints. Don't we all wish we could wash with hot water. [/B]



I just ordered an adapter that screws onto your sink faucet that allows you to screw a water hose on the other end. You unscrew the aerator and screw the adapter in its place. I plan on using a pistol nozzle set to drip just a little so that I don't waste and run out of hot water. I want it to drip just a little so that the water in the hose won't get cold.



I plan to hook this up to the utility sink in the mud room because I can keep the door shut to the rest of the house and not let cold air in.



You could also hook a water hose to the hot water faucet that supplies your washer if it is close to where you wash your car. Since most water hoses drip just a little, I suggest coiling about two feet of the water hose and put it in the bottom of the utility sink or washer before it leads out of your house to your car. That way, any drips will be contained.



I will keep everyone posted on how all this works after I've tried it several times.
 
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