Can't do it all in one weekend is this o.k.?

KevinVanCaster

New member
Hi guys,

Hey I can't do the whole detail and seal in one weekend.

So how should I do this?

I am going to start with claying then SMR.

After that #7 Glaze, followed by # 20 sealant.

After curing waxing with #26.

My question is "At what point should I stop for the

weekend to pick up again next weekend?

Can I just wash it and start where I left off

next weekend?

thanks, Kevin

P.S. This is a daily driver.
 
This thread is remarkably similar to this one. There is no need to double-post on Autopia. Most addicted Autopians read all the forums, and apparently lots (like me) just use the "View New Posts" so that everything shows up together regardless of what forum it's posted in.



(Sorry if I sound too snitty, but this is the third double-post I've found today. Where are the moderators??)



To your point: I run into the same thing all the time. It always takes me days to do the whole wash/clay/polish/seal process, and I'm driving the cars and don't have a garage. So I get to a stopping point, and then wash again before resuming. (If it's been very long, I may also have to clay again -- dang-blasted railroad town :wall ) But I haven't used the products you're using, so can't comment with certainty on those.
 
KevinVanCaster said:
After that #7 Glaze, followed by # 20 sealant.

After curing waxing with #26.

My question is "At what point should I stop for the

weekend to pick up again next weekend?

Can I just wash it and start where I left off

next weekend?

thanks, Kevin

P.S. This is a daily driver.



One sure fire way to save time is to skip either the #7 or the #20. #20 has cleaners in it, so is incompatible with #7. So either #7/#26 or #20/#26.
 
KevinVanCaster said:
Hi guys,

Hey I can't do the whole detail and seal in one weekend.

So how should I do this?

I am going to start with claying then SMR.

After that #7 Glaze, followed by # 20 sealant.

After curing waxing with #26.

My question is "At what point should I stop for the

weekend to pick up again next weekend?

Can I just wash it and start where I left off

next weekend?

thanks, Kevin

P.S. This is a daily driver.



I question the use of #20 over #7 as well. I don't know that I would top any sealant over #7. The oils that make #7 so impressive would prevent the sealant from bonding properly anyway I would think. Its best to choose one or the other in this case.



I would probably SMR and #20 in one day and then pick it up the next day for the #26. That way the #20 has time to cure and you get a break from all the polishing and buffing you just did. :xyxthumbs
 
There is nothing wrong with using #7 followed with #20; I have done this for many, many years without a single problem.



As I said before, the cleaners in the #20 are more for assisting it to bond to the surface rather than clean it like a cleaner wax. Sure the very mild cleaners in the #20 may remove some of the

#7 but certainly not enough to lose the benefits of it.



Here is a post from Mike Phillips (Meguiar's) from his own website that discusses this very issue: Can you layer #20 over #7



Quote:



"#20 does contain some light chemical cleaners; but they are only a small percentage of the total volume of product. Percentage wise, it’s nothing like a true cleaner/wax like our #6 Cleaner/wax in the Professional line, or the “Meguiar’s� cleaner wax in the Consumer line.



The chemical cleaners are used in the formula to help clean the paint so that the polymers can better bond to the surface. This allows the wax to last longer and protect better.



While serious enthusiasts will tend to use a “dedicated paint cleaner� and or clay before waxing, the average consumer likes to do one-step. By including some lite cleaning ability, Meguiar’s insures the wax will properly bond, and thus last and the result is a happy customer.







You can certainly apply it over #7 and #3.



Does it remove these polishing oils? Probably not enough for the human eye to ever notice.



I like #20, it works great, lasts a long time and it's easy to apply and super easy to wipe off. It’s an awesome wax for finishes in good to excellent condition.



It's highly water and detergent resistant, which makes it a great wax for climates that get a lot of rain, like Oregon and Washington.



Always shake this product up very well before use.



Two thin coats are better than one thick coat.



Allow the wax to completely dry before removing, usually no longer than 15 minutes.



Hope this helps...



Mike"

End of Quote (from www.theartofpolishingpaint.com and www.showcargarage.com)





So, if I were you, I would use #7, then #20 and topped with #26!!



Cheers!

Tim
 
Yeah, I've read this info about #7 and #20 before, and it has the gears in my head strippin-.... I mean turning. ;)



I think the answer to your question is: How picky will you be or how long will it take you to clay? I'm pretty slow and picky about this step and I've spent whole day sessions doing this alone.... It's okay to start off from where you left off last week though. I would try to stop at clay or SMR or #20 if I could (basically not stopping at the fragile glaze step).
 
I spread stuff out all the time. I usually do my complete process on one section (hood ,font fenders and bumper, doors and roof, rear end) and just stop at the breaks in the panels. That way everything is alwyas fully protected but you can spread stuff out over days or even weeks. These detailing processes take a lot of time and it's definitely understandable to not be able to complete a whole car in one day.
 
2hotford said:
There is nothing wrong with using #7 followed with #20; I have done this for many, many years without a single problem.




I agree with you there, Tim. But he was asking about saving time. And even Mike Phillips states that #7 is not that quick to use. And #20 is not a wax on/wax off type of sealant either.



I am curious though. I have tried #7 under #20 on my car in the past, and in my experience, #7/#20 = #20. I do not see the #7 wetness under the #20.



I have used #7 under #26 and also under PUPP, and they both look great. PUPP does not have any cleaners, so I was certain it would not remove the #7. However, I am not sure about bonding issues. I am still waiting to see if the PUPP is still there. It's been a week. I will wash this weekend and see if the PUPP is gone.
 
Here is the follow up post to that one....



That being my first time i spread the time out over a 3day weekend, but since them I was actually able to do another, bigger car in two days. I normally started around 7:30 when the sun went down and finished around 1:30 in the morning. Me being on summer vacation from school I can do that late but dont know about u and work. My suggestions would be to just take your time and when you start again check the paint to see if its were you like it. Stop when you get tired or else it will start to look sloopy. One thing i suggest is music, I didnt realize i have worked almost 6 hours with it on felt only like one or two. It really helps time pass by. Good Luck.
 
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