Cann't Remove Oxidation Plus Another Problem

zippymbr

zippymbr

New member
Well I finnaly started working on my wifes 1994 Honda Prelude. The top surfaces are heavy with oxidation. I have tried Medallion Premimum Paint Cleaner and AIO with little sucess using my PC. I removed alot of the oxidation but after several slow passes at medium speed much of it remains. I am posting a pic that showes one part to the left that has had two passes of the MPPC and to the right nothing has been done. This brings me to my other dilemma. As you can see in the pic roof seam is a mess. I can not tell what is happening. It looks like a clear plastic cover with mildew and dirt below it. It looks like I can cut it off and clean below it. What do you all think?
IMG_0920.jpg
 
Well, I have no idea what to tell you about the roof seam, but I can tell you that you need to get a more aggressive polish to tackle this job. You are about two or three steps away from AIO to get this looking like it should.
 
I also tried some IP on speed 5 using a yellow LC 6 inch constant pressure pad. It did not look any better than just using the MPPC it was just smoother with fewer swirls.
 
IP should have definitely gotten rid of a good bit of that oxidation, and if it didn't then you might be at the limits of the PC in general. Before we discuss giving up, how about the process. How big of an area did you polish at a time and for how long?
 
The roof seam looks like it has come off. Shouldn't there be a hard rubber or plastic piece in there? Looks like what's left is mostly glue or adhesive.... that's just my guess from the picture.
 
Eliot Ness said:
The roof seam looks like it has come off. Shouldn't there be a hard rubber or plastic piece in there? Looks like what's left is mostly glue or adhesive.... that's just my guess from the picture.
Click to expand...



I thought the same thing. But it is like a clear film maybe 1-2 mil thick that has seperated in places solid in others. We lent the car out for about 1.5 years. I just do not remember there being any black plastic trim on the seam.
 
Go back to IP, and crank the speed up to 6 and put some real pressue on the head of the PC. This will create some heat and make the process much faster.
 
In my opinion, IP just isn't the best choice here. If you have to use it, then do as koko suggested, but IP is really meant to be used with a rotary which builds heat and the PC won't. I'd really like to see how your car would look after a pass with some 3M PI III RC.
 
JDookie said:
In my opinion, IP just isn't the best choice here. If you have to use it, then do as koko suggested, but IP is really meant to be used with a rotary which builds heat and the PC won't. I'd really like to see how your car would look after a pass with some 3M PI III RC.
Click to expand...



IP is the strongest stuff I Have. I can go get some 3M. Is that a good choice to use with the PC?
 
Yes, it is a good choice. 3M has a new line out called Perfect It 3000, but the older two versions should still be available, Perfect It II and III. Out of the three, I think the most preferred is the Perfect It III line. I would look into getting a bottle of PI III RC (Rubbing Compound) and PI III MG (Machine Glaze). I'm not sure of the product numbers, but as long as you know the names you should be fine.



The 3M stuff is very nice because it's easy to use and doesn't contain any oils or fillers so you can see your progress as you go. They work great via PC, rotary, or even by hand and the best part is they are available locally.



I'm not saying that this might solve your issue, but it's what I would try.
 
I've used IP with the PC and Cyclo. In the case of the PC, yes, you have to have it on 6 and put pressure on the PC. It's going to be long and tedious work but it may eventually produice results.



If you get the 3m twins you could incorporate the IP into the regimen, Perhaps IP follwed by the 3m rubbing compound, making several passes, then using the machine glaze/swirl remover to bring back the gloss and remove the maring from the IP and RC.



Set aside plenty of time to do all of this. Have plenty of fresh pads ready.
 
Thanks for the advice. What would you all do if it was your car? I am open to anything that will work, and am not afraid to try something new. I can get hold of a rotary, I was just hoping to get this done using the PC I have.
 
Personally, I'd do the 3M routine and call it a day. A rotary will definitely speed things up but unless you are somewhat proficient with the rotary, I wouldn't want to *learn* on this car, if you know what I mean. The PC should get you close to where you want to be, it's just going to take a lot of patience and time. What pads are you working with again?
 
I have a selection of LC pads 6 inch constant pressure. I have yellow, orange, several white, red, black. I wish I had a few more yellow ones, they seem to work the best since they have the most cut. I may order some more tomorrow along with some 3M.
 
I've experienced some amazing results with the 3M products, so you can't go wrong. You can also do as Bill suggested and use your IP in conjunction with the 3M products. Keep in mind that the finish is going to be fairly ugly during the cutting process, so don't expect it to be *pretty* until the MG phase which will reduce the haze and bring out the shine.



Patience is the key. I spent two days detailing my mother's black 2000 Mercedes before we sold it, and one whole day was spent strictly on polishing with the 3M RC which sounds severe, but it's what it took to get the finish how I wanted. Granted I work in my driveway and I don't work during the middle of the day because the sun is too bright so my *day* only consists of a total of six hours but that's still a lot of polishing.
 
That sounds just like the process I used to get the Lexus we own up to par. It took 12 hours over several nights to get it done. I don't mind spending the time, I just want to pend it wisely. I am going to sell this car when it is done. So I want it as good as it can get. That means a better resale value.
 
dscf0202e7zx.jpg






thats a 2002 v6 honda accord coupe thats prolly what was supposed to be on the prelude except just painted im pretty sure thats what it was because there is no reason for it to do that right there ill bet its the glue that held the trim down and when whoever had it saw it coming up the just pulled it off but if u want to really really find out just drive to your local honda shop and ask them whats the other side look like?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top