Can This Be Fixed?

D

dajonx

New member
Hi,



I was wondering if someone can please take a look at the pictures and see if this is correctable. It's a 1998 Honda Accord and as you can see, the exterior has been neglected. I really don't want to go the repaint route... If it is correctable, can you please tell me how to best fix it?



Thank you!



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:welcome: to Autopia



Clear coat failure (this is only a temporary ‘fix’)



• Wash the paint surface and dry thoroughly

• Clean the paint with chemical paint cleaner (Klasse All-In-One) using an Lake County (LC) orange foam pad at speed #4, this may take 2-3 applications

• If a chemical paint cleaner doesn’t remove the oxidation use a (LC) purple foamed wool (PFW) pad and Menzerna’s Power Gloss (POS 34A) or Meguiar’s M105, clean or replace with a clean pad as the oxidized paint will load the pad

• A foam pad will transfer kinetic (friction) heat to the paint and may exasperate the problem

• Using Gloss It EVP Pad Prime will help maintain sufficient oil lubrication for the polish

• Wet-sanding will remove ‘oxidation’ debris, which may remove too much clear coat

• Once the oxidation has been removed use a decontamination system (Aquartz Iron Cut)

• Apply an oil rich product to stabilize the paints binder system (3M Imperial Hand Glaze) apply a thick coat and allow to dwell for 12-24 hours before buffing, repeat as necessary until surface has an ‘oily’ sheen.

• Remove residue and apply a polymer coating (Opti-Coat™) for protection.

• Try to keep vehicle paint surface away from UV heat radiation

• Keep paint surface waxed on a regular basis.

Temporary remedy – wash and dry the surface, and then use a chemical paint cleaner (Klasse AIO)Check the paint thickness and there is sufficient thickness polish the surface (Meguiar’s M105)And then apply a coating (Opti-Coat™) for protection
 
There is "NO" temporary fix for this.

If you want to try one, it takes longer to try than it will last.

A complete refinish of the vehicle is the only fix.

Grumpy
 
Thank you!! And thank you for the quick and detailed response!!



Sorry, I have a number of questions... (I'm really, really new to this detailing world, but trying to learn as much as possible!)



1. As I have read about clear coat failure and the only way to properly fix it is to repaint it, how well do you think the temporary 'fix' will look? I guess it can't really look any worse than it is now.



2. I currently do not have a machine to do this so I assume it's going to really need it to do this well without breaking my arms and taking a year to do this, right?



3. I also do not have a paint thickness measuring tool so I guess I should skip the M105 completely?



4. Should I just go the Temporary Remedy path to see how well it looks first? Then if it looks better (but not fixed), go the Temporary Fix path?
 
Just wipe some thinned down motor oil on it. That give a little shine and last about a day or so.



That clear is long gone, no need for going out and buying machines and tools, products that will not fix the problem.



The basecoat is the color and under the clearcoat, that is peeling off, DOES NOT HAVE A SHINE, was never intended to. The CLEARCOAT is what provides the SHINE and protection of the overall paint system.



What you wish to do is to shine up a base coat that can not be shined and retain the shine.



Grumpy
 
Ok, thank you Ron.



I guess the only thing left to do is to prevent more paint from peeling off (or repainting... Ugh...). How much do you think it would cost for the hood and roof to be repainted? Instead of using motor oil, would it be better if I used Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax (since I already have it)?
 
Wipe it on, can't hurt anything.

Consider buying some 220 grit sanding disc and borrowing a pad sander.

Sand the top surfaces down, tape off the trim,windows, etc and rattle can it with a satin black paint.

Will look better and if you ever decide to have it done right, the bad flakes are gone.

For an actual, correctly done refinish of the hood and roof, might as well throw in the trunk lid as well and check the tops of the fenders, quarter panels for soon to be coming failure, it can vary what it would cost.

It's 98 Accord, probably has in excess of 120,000 miles, don't know when the timing belt was last changed (expensive), etc.

Would not go high dollar paint, as a quality refinish costs more than the car is worth.

A quality refinish would run around $2,000 to $3000.

If you got a Maaco around, not the best for quality, however they are cheaper, might look into having the whole car done.

It will out last the car's mechanicals.

I don't know what packages they offer these days, used to have from super cheap to sort of OK packages.

Used to be you could get a mid grade for around $400 to $500.

Grumpy
 
Thank you, Ron!



I don't think I would want to play around with a sander as that scares me to death. It's like putting me in a surgery room and performing brain surgery...



Yeah, a quality refinish is definitely more than the car is worth. The car has about 144k miles and the timing belt was changed around the 100k mark.



In order to prevent clear coat failure (on any car), do I need to just be at least somewhat on top of washing and sealing the car?
 
Wash with a true car wash soap or shampoo regularly, apply a good sealant twice a year.

That's the simple way of keeping a paint finish acceptable for most people, which most people don't even do that.

A pad sander is not hard to handle, just be sure and tape off the trim and chrome before you start so you don't ruin them. You pick up a little electric one at Harbor Frieght or any big box or hardware store, some packs of paper, some masking tape and rock and roll for a chance to learn and get the job done for less than $50, plus a few rattle cans of spray paint.

You can't hurt that car's finish, anything would be an improvement.

Grumpy
 
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