Can these be wetsanded out?

J

Jacobpockros

New member
Hey guys I have a question here. I had my door repainted about 7 months ago and I can now see what look to be bodywork marks under the clearcoat. I am not entirely sure if they are under the clearcoat though as it took them 6 months to appear (at first they weren't visible). Is it possible that the clearcoat they used is thinning or something? Also, could they be wetsanded out? Your answers will be very much appriciated. Thanks, -Jake.





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Hard to tell from the pics but it appears to be in the body filler. You may be able to minimize the appearance a little, but I don't think they would come out 100%. It will also depend on how much paint you have to work with. The more paint you have the better you can make it.



My opinion may defer if I were to see it in person.



The body filler and paint will continue to shrink over time as the solvents dissipate from the finish.
 
RaskyR1 said:
The body filler and paint will continue to shrink over time as the solvents dissipate from the finish.
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Well my car has alot of factory orange peel on it and my guess is that since they had to match the orange peel, they couldn't use too much clear on it. So would it be a good idea for me to just get the whole car wetsanded and buffed, to eliminate the orange peel so that if I have them re-do the door they can use more clear to match the rest of the car?
 
Jacobpockros- Welcome to Autopia!



Those sanding marks are under the basecoat and can't be corrected by wetsanding/etc. Only way to fix them will involve repainting. Gee, guess how I know :o Unfortunately, such [stuff] isn't all that uncommon, even from "good" shops.
 
Jacobpockros said:
It's supposedly the best body shop in town. Amato's Autobody.
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I had the same prob with a red integra before my more educated detailing days. I just took it back to the shop and they wetsanded it right out couldnt even tell. "soak in" is what they call it around here.

Let them sand down the clear (and take the risk) if they really are a good shop they'll take care of it.



(only based on my personal experience usually a metallic paint its not fixable as much because the accumulator is right it is under the base coat very very common prep mistake. Little to heavy a grit or lack of patience even then sometimes you get the soak)<ment to be read very fast lol

Don't want to step on toes people just trying to help
 
Buff Guys Auto- NO worries Re stepping on my toes, and nothing would please me more than for my assessment to be wrong :D If Jacobpockros can get it sorted out (via wetsanding or anything else cheaper than a redo) then I'll be happy. It's just never worked out like that for me, with metallics or regular paint. Well, I take that back...with single stage lacquer I was able to level it, but that's such prehistoric stuff that, eh...who cares.



Jacobpockros- Since it's a supposedly reputable shop, I'd take it back to them. Tell 'em that it looks like they used some harsh grit paper (120? 240? whatever it was it was pretty coarse IMO) for the last passes when prepping it, and relied on their primer to fill in the sanding scratches. But.... as the paint aged it tightened/shrank back, and the sanding marks became obvious.



IME, when you know what the problem is, they're more likely to take you seriously and try to make you happy by doing things the right way. ("Uh-oh, this guy isn't the typically ignorant customer...we'd better do it right.")



They won't be happy about the whole thing, but since it's *your* happiness that matters maybe they'll sort it out. FWIW, the shop that left me with that problem was willing to redo it (they fixed it on my car, but on my wife's car she said to let it go, that she'd just live with it).
 
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