Buying a Makita tomorrow

I

imported_Axe

New member
OK I have had enough of struggling with swirl marks with the PC and Cyclo and I have decided that tomorrow I will buy a makita rotary - I would appreciate any tips, links, which pads to buy (it comes with a wool pad) etc. WIll I be able to use the pads I have already for the PC, and if so do I have to purchase an attachment of some kind so that the pads can stick using the velcro etc,?



I intend to approach a friend of mine and use a couple of 'hoods' to practice on, any advice or help gratefully received. Thanks
 
I forget where I bought mine (gee, that's a big help, huh :o ) but I got some smaller backing plates for my Makita that allow me to use PC and Cyclo size pads with it. Maybe check out CMA, I got the "flex" plates, not that they flex all that much.



The 4" pads are great for spot-correction, BTW. I usually just leave my Makita set up for those.



I liked sticking with pads and products I was already familiar with, that way the only variable that changed was the machine. IMO it helped make the transition to the rotary a lot safer and easier. While that doesn't really take full advantage of the rotary's heat-generating capabilities, it does still give you a lot more effectiveness than the Cyclo can offer.
 
Are you sure you don't want a Dynabrade instead?



Hehe, just trying to create an argument; I have no idea which tool is better.





Tom
 
Axe - WAIT!



Have you looked into the Metabo as an alternative to the Makita. Nothing wrong with it except its weight. Metabo has less power (meaning it is safer to use for a noob to rotary work) and I can swing it all day and not get worn out. If I use a Makita, my knuckles are dragging on the ground, starting about 3:00 PM



If you look like Schwartzenegger, go for it. If not, read about it here www.topoftheline.com and enter Metabo into the search on the front page. German made.
 
As long as it's a good unit, the brand really doesn't matter for the avid enthusiest. If you plan on running it all out for 8 hr/day - 5 days week. Then brand becomes a much bigger issue.



The Makita will do you fine.



What pads do you have now? If they are velcro based, then you'll be able to use them on the rotary. It will just be a matter of buying the right backing plate.



NOTE: With a Cyclo and PCDA, you should be able to tackle the majority of the swirls. The Cyclo and DACP/No. 80 should have tackled the problem.



The rotary is really great for tackling 1000 - 2000 grit sanding marks/swirls. The DA is much easier and safer to use on minor imprefections. That being said, a rotary in a skilled hand does do wonders.



Paco
 
Thanks for your input so far people, I did look into the Metabo Gonzo however its nearly 50.00 UKP ($100) more here, and I can simply go to my local hardware store and buy the Makita over the counter (rather than wait a week or so, although can buy the metabo here too on the internet, but its too expensive) . Plus, people consider me 'built' perhaps not Arnie, but lets just say strong :)



I am about to start a haggle with a UK online company though, to see if I can't get the Makita price reduced from 169.00 UKP or maybe have them throw in a 4" velcro backing plate ? Is that what I need ?



Paco, much as I respect yours and everyone else's opinions here at autopia, I have had pretty much zero success at swirl removal with the PC or the Cyclo and many combinations of products and pads, however I can still find a place for both of those tools, the Cyclo is great to apply polish (much better than the PC) and the PC is great to apply LSP's or AIO.



So any really good links I should view, that are a must see in the use of the rotary? Any particular backing plate I should buy, any tip on the best products to use - I have #80 #83, the whole range of 1z products, IP etc.
 
I bought a Makita rotary from Autogeek about 2-3 months ago and I love it! With the rotary corrections come a lot quicker and more effective then a DA. The only thing is getting enough use out of it to where you get NO holograms that's what im currently struggling with. I have gotten pretty good with it IMO but after pulling the car in the sunlight I can see some slight holograms. As a follow up to correct the holograms, I usually bust out the PC.



Some simple advice that I have learned from the rotary usage: (Im by no means a pro!)

1. Keep the pad moist w/o saturating it. This helps with the "buffer hop" many get.

2. Depending on the defects, usually the right pad/polish combo you can keep just the weight of the rotary itself instead of applying pressure to the surface.

3. IF the defects are pretty bad then apply medium pressure while using the rotary but be very careful as you increase the risk of burning the paint.

4. Spread the product to be used on the pad or paint VERY well and even. This will help prevent splatter. (The amount of splatter is increased by a out compared to a DA)

5. To check if you are using the rotary correctly after making a pass with it, put your hand against the surface. The surface should be luke warm to warm to the touch, if its cold then you are moving to fast, if its real hot then you are increasing the risk of burnning by a lot!

6. Tape trim accordingly. The rotary will burn or ruin trim much harsher and faster than a DA could.

7. Especially for beginner I would go no faster than 1500rpms with it. MOST corrections can be made at 1500rpms. Some use higher and still produce good results but others will burn paint quite easily.



Like I said before, im not really scared of burning the paint anymore after my use with it. Its just more on perfecting technique to not get holograms AT ALL and to reduce the splatter. Even on a car without a lot of swirls or defects, the rotary I feel can provide a burnishing of the paint the DA connot simply achieve.



I have been using LC 7.5in variable contact pads. For a begginner I think they are harder to use. I have now bought some more pads that are a constant "flat" surface and got 6.5 pads instead of 7.5 Havent used them yet, but I will on next Monday.





Here's the info from Lake Country on the LC pads I have:



What do we mean by variable contact?



Lake Country's patented design features a "stepped, concave" buffing surface that varies the level of pad-to-surface contact depending on the pressure applied by the operator.





Benefits:



Improved operator control - Ability to vary pad pressure allows the operator to"work" the compounds and polishes for the desired results.



Eliminates Splatter and Waste - As the pad rotates, polishes and compounds migrate toward the center of the pad, virtually eliminating splatter and waste of expensive compounds. Especially effective on vertical surfaces.



Ideal for Tight Spaces - The profile of the curved edge pad is great for buffing around objects in tight spaces. The recessed back prevents contact between the backing plate and the working surface.





If anyone else I would like to correct me or add anything, please feel free, as I stated earlier i am not a pro and have only used the rotary for about 2 months on about 4-6 cars.
 
Thats really useful 01bluecls thanks, a lot of useful info in your post :xyxthumbs



OH and can I use the wool pad that comes with the Makita, reading that other post suggests this is actually milder than a foam pad ?
 
Axe said:
Thats really useful 01bluecls thanks, a lot of useful info in your post :xyxthumbs



OH and can I use the wool pad that comes with the Makita, reading that other post suggests this is actually milder than a foam pad ?
Click to expand...



No prob, just hoping you can make sense of my jibberish! Sometimes I think A LOT faster then I can type. Some posts of mine I bet people are wondering if English is even a first language for me (btw which it is)



From my research and what I have read, using the wool bonnet on a clear coat finish is a big no-no. They said the wool with today's modern clearcoat leave tons of UNNECESSARY marring and can burn the paint quicker since it generates heat much quicker as well. The wool pad that came with the Makita is still in the bag. I dont ever plan on using it. I havent come across many defects that I know will come out with the right foam pad/polish/techniue combo with the rotary.
 
01bluecls,

You might want to back down your RPM's if you are getting constant hologramming. I use 1200 to get rid of swirls, and back it down to 600rpm's with a finishing polish to get rid of any hologramming and set that shine. When I'm down to my last buffs, I just go back and forth slowly with FPII. They key for me is long slow strokes. Wool pads are easy to use, they are just messy and leave hazing that is easily corrected by polishing pad and IP or FPII.
 
I'll give that a try when I detail my mother's car sometime next week, weather permitting of course. So you suggest using around 1200rpms with IP to correct defects such as swirling, and then using 600rpms with FPII to correct any holograms and do a final burnish? Would using a grey LC finish pad with FPII vs a thie LC polish pad better to reduce any possible holograms?



If you remember my post on the March Extreme Detail about the LC pads vs. the constant pressure, I just got some constant pressure pads mainly for my PC but if I use them with the rotary, do you have any suggestions on those? I guess since its constant pressure (Completely flat pad) lower rpms would be safer since more surface area of the pad is actually contacting the surface of the paint??
 
Axe... if your transformer is up to the task, then I'd seriously consider getting a USA 110v Makita 9227, purely for the fact that it'd be a damn site easier to get some decent backing plates.



I don't know if you know this, but the USA 9227 has a different threaded spindle to our UK 9227. So all the backing plates you see on US retailers websites will not fit the UK 9227. The UK 9227 has an M14x2 thread BTW.



I've still yet to find a decent backing plate for my UK 9227 - I'm in a similar boat to you, I'm wanting to use my existing PC pads to save on buying a whole new load.
 
If, you need backing plates for your uk 9227 give me a shout, meguiars supply them for trade to fit the uk model. Im currently using propel/megs/lc pads on my makita with no problems with the megs uk rotary backing plate,
 
Yes Pugoman, I had considered the transformer and US option, may still be a plan (couldn't get to the shop today). I intend to buy the beast tomorrow, although if my local store sells the metabo and the price is more competitive, I may just opt for that device instead. Either way I will be spending some money soon ... AGAIN! :)



By the way is it a 5" or 4" backing plate I need ?
 
Send a PM to 'sbtuk' above... he's hopefully gonna get hold of a couple of Megs backing plates for me with the correct UK thread.



I got my Makita from Screwfix - ordered it one day, got it the next, excellent service. The Makita really looks and feels the business... it makes the PC look and feel like a little toy!



I've had a couple of goes with the Makita on my own car and got on quite well with it... as long as you keep the speed low and keep it moving, there's really nothing to be afraid of IMO.
 
Axe... I just recently purchased a 5" Flexipad backing plate, identical style to the one on link above.



I was very disappointed with it. It didn't spin very well, ie. I don't think the actual backing pad was perfectly circular as there was very noticable wobbling if you know what I mean.



I sent it back and got another one and that was worse, so I sent that back and got a refund. I gave up with those.
 
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