Burnishing speed for Rotary?

Lazzman

Lazzman

New member
I want to burnish the paint with a rotary and either a Gray or Gold 6.5" CCS pad, also plan on using Menzerna Final Polish, the new formula.



What speed should I have the rotary on when burnishing for very high gloss?



I am also assuming that I use little to no pressure on the pad also.





Thanks for any tips...
 
I agree, I jewel every car I perform a full correction on and I use the exact same product FPII (micro polish) and a black pad.



Just work it in at like 1100rpms, then once it's cleared up a bit, turn it down to like 700-900rpms and finish it off.



I always spritz a little water before hand to help lubricate a bit better, seems to work very well with Menzerna polishes.



Don't forget to rewash before you wax/seal the paint.



Josh
 
Great news thanks.



The polish just arrived from Autogeek :xyxthumbs



Do I have to wash or can I just do a 50/50 Iso Alcohol wipe down?



I Jeweled the finish of my black Explorer with my Flex 3401 with a Gray CCS pad and Menz P106FF, set at 3. Looks real good but I wanted to step up to my rotary on this next car I am doing, as I heard the rotary is the ticket in machine Jewelling :bow



BTW I hear that the new CCS Gold Pads were designed especially for Burnishing paint and are the softest densest polishing pads around, anyone tried one yet?



I have one lying around that I will have a go with.
 
Have you already done the paint correction to clean up all the swirls and such? if not all the jeweling in the world won't make it perfect.



You'll need to compound it then polish it all out and then jewel/burnish.



Josh
 
Agreed.



The whole point of jeweling/burnishing is to take already perfect paint to the next level.



TH0001 has some very good info out there about jeweling, even if he is banned.



A IPA wipedown should be sufficient and some people find that DA's are better suited for jeweling, duel to the reduced risck of hologramming.
 
I hate to be the one to disagree, but truthfully I do not notice a difference in using a final (almost no cut at all) finishing polish, as opposed to finishing with 106FF on Lake Country Black Foam. I tried it, and I just don't see a difference. I attribute this to the possibility that such a light polish is not going to do much on such a ridiculously hard General Motors Clear. I am interested in your results...



DG
 
Danspeed1 said:
I hate to be the one to disagree, but truthfully I do not notice a difference in using a final (almost no cut at all) finishing polish, as opposed to finishing with 106FF on Lake Country Black Foam. I tried it, and I just don't see a difference. I attribute this to the possibility that such a light polish is not going to do much on such a ridiculously hard General Motors Clear. I am interested in your results...



DG
Click to expand...



Dan, you are right when referring to a very hard clear, a product like Menz FPII with a black pad just doesn't do a whole heck of a lot to improve things. That's why it's important to try out different final polish and pad combos.



Could be that something like 106FF with a white pad on a slower speed would burnish it nicely as opposed to FPII with a black pad.



All depends on what car he is working on.



Guess we failed to establish that up front.



Josh
 
Thanks for the reply Josh.



Yea, I gave it a try a while back, and it didn't do anything for my finish, but then again, it was either on the Vette or the Impala and the clear is made out of diamonds on those cars. In theory, 106FF on a finish like that is like micro polish on a Honda (I think they are soft right?) At least that was my thinking. In any event, I just follow up with good wax (P21s) or a good Sealant (Zaino), and that seems to cover for the burnishing process.



Just my experience...



DG
 
I am working on my Black 1998 Ford Explorer. I already clayed and polished the paint with an orange pad and PO106FF.



This is my personal vehicle and the paint has been well cared for over the years.



What is the verdict on the machine to use DA or Rotary for the Burnish?



I already did the hood of the vehicle with my Flex machine, starting with claying, then polishing with Menzerna Intensive Polish on an Orange CCS pad, went over that to jewell the paint with a Gray pad and Nano Polish- came out very good and glazed looking. Topped it with Danase Glaze and Black Fire White Diamond.



For the rest of the vehicle, since it is in good shape I am going to use an orange pad with the Nano polish (this polish cuts nicely) then burnish it with a Gold pad and Menzerna's New Final Finish (PO85RD) it is in the same class as the Nano's. Thinking of using my Flex 3401 the whole way through.



Will keep posted on the Final results.
 
lazzman said:
I am working on my Black 1998 Ford Explorer. I already clayed and polished the paint with an orange pad and PO106FF.



This is my personal vehicle and the paint has been well cared for over the years.



What is the verdict on the machine to use DA or Rotary for the Burnish?



I already did the hood of the vehicle with my Flex machine, starting with claying, then polishing with Menzerna Intensive Polish on an Orange CCS pad, went over that to jewell the paint with a Gray pad and Nano Polish- came out very good and glazed looking. Topped it with Danase Glaze and Black Fire White Diamond.



For the rest of the vehicle, since it is in good shape I am going to use an orange pad with the Nano polish (this polish cuts nicely) then burnish it with a Gold pad and Menzerna's New Final Finish (PO85RD) it is in the same class as the Nano's. Thinking of using my Flex 3401 the whole way through.



Will keep posted on the Final results.
Click to expand...





If you know what you're doing with the rotary I would say to always burnish with the rotary.



Now as far as using an orange pad with the nano, I would not as the pad will likely mare the finish with that combo. I would use Intensive Polish with the orange or even a white pad and then follow up with the FPII and black pad to burnish.



As a general rule of thumb cutting pads (orange) should be used with cutting polsihes/compounds and softer pads should be used with final polishes.



Josh
 
That makes sense Josh, thanks for the tip. Your rule of thumb is correct.



I am new to using the Nano polish, but I can tell you this, it does nearly as good a job as the Intensive polish. It is not like a traditional polish, as it is designed for super hard ceramic clear coates. It cuts better than regular polish, thus my thinking of using it with an orange pad.



I first used it with a white pad and my flex on a Black 2007 Camry and it took out nearly every scratch and swirl mark. The new Toyota's have soft, thin paint that (imho) sucks.... They need to take a look at German auto paint and reformulate accordingly, Anyway the nano works very well.



I will try it both ways on a small section of the vehicle and post my results.
 
lazzman said:
That makes sense Josh, thanks for the tip. Your rule of thumb is correct.



I am new to using the Nano polish, but I can tell you this, it does nearly as good a job as the Intensive polish. It is not like a traditional polish, as it is designed for super hard ceramic clear coates. It cuts better than regular polish, thus my thinking of using it with an orange pad.



I first used it with a white pad and my flex on a Black 2007 Camry and it took out nearly every scratch and swirl mark. The new Toyota's have soft, thin paint that (imho) sucks.... They need to take a look at German auto paint and reformulate accordingly, Anyway the nano works very well.



I will try it both ways on a small section of the vehicle and post my results.
Click to expand...



Great idea.
 
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