burning paint with wool pad

M

madazskunk

New member
Just got to try out my new makita last weekend on a junk car. So I try the wool pad first and am polishing along and don't see it doing anything the hood of this 80's something buick. Tried 1Z ultra and DACP. Now the paint on this car is very bad seems uneven and thin but is still glossy everywhere except the roof and trunk where there is no paint whatsovever just like powdery chalk or something:nixweiss . Anyways I wasn't trying to fix anything just messing around. So i try to burn through the paint on purpose just to see. Well i can't do it with the wool pad(8 1/2" from CMA) I just held it there dry on 3000 rpm and nothing. Now with the yellow and white foam it was pretty easy although not as easy as people say. So can you burn through paint with a wool pad? Just curious.
 
the wool pads have the potential for doing lots of damage.



Does the machine you have offer variable speeds?
 
Wool pads are the most aggressive, but don't feel that foam pads are safe!



The polish/compound has just as much to do with cutting as does the pad...



"powdery chalk" may have worthwhile paint beneath it. try a foam pad and a mild polish - DACP - to see how much you can improve it.



Most of us buff at 1000 - 1500 RPM. Let the pad and polish do the work. Keep the temp of the surface below 115-120 degrees.



Radio shack has an infrared thermometer for about $40-50.



Practice is a good thing!



Jim
 
Wool pads were all I used when I first started buffing with a rotary. I now use all foam but I think the wool pads are easier to control. Also I don't think wool pads are as dangerous as people think.:)
 
That's interesting. So you don't have trouble with the wool pad hazing, creating holograms and spider webbing? I always thought since the foam has more of a uniform/even contact patch it would be easier to us.
 
joed1228 said:
That's interesting. So you don't have trouble with the wool pad hazing, creating holograms and spider webbing? I always thought since the foam has more of a uniform/even contact patch it would be easier to us.
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No fortunately I never had those problems. I think mostly just because I took my time and kept the surface well lubricated. I was also lucky in that I had two clunker cars to practice on. They had enough paint left for practice but were in crappy condition otherwise so I could do no harm.:)
 
I don't know if there is something wrong with my pad or what but I was trying to burn through the paint and coudn't do it. I cranked up the makita 9227 to full speed and held it on one spot for at least 10 seconds and got nothing. Is something wrong with my pad. Like I said the yellow and white foam burned through relatively quickly but the wool nada.
 
madazskunk said:
I don't know if there is something wrong with my pad or what but I was trying to burn through the paint and coudn't do it. I cranked up the makita 9227 to full speed and held it on one spot for at least 10 seconds and got nothing. Is something wrong with my pad. Like I said the yellow and white foam burned through relatively quickly but the wool nada.
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Foam pads are more dangerous than wool/synthetic pads in the area of heat build up and one is more likely to have burn through with a foam pad.



Why?



Well a wool pad, because of its material and construction, allows more air to flow through and circulate than a foam pad, thus a higher degree of surface temp for the foam and less for the wool. Foam pad manufacturers realizing this began to make foam pads (I believe it was either 3M or Buff n Shine) that had cut outs in the pads which would then draw in more air to help cool the surface being buffed.



So if you allow say 10 seconds for your foam pad to burn through then give your wool pad longer and also try it on an edge or seam where two panels meet. I guarantee it will burn through but it will just take a bit longer :D



Anthony
 
Here is a direct quote from Aaron Krause (Preisdent and CEO of Edge Pads) regarding wool pads:



"...unlike the foam (pad) which actually wears down and you can see is shrinking in size and thickness, the wool pads do not. With a wool pad the threads become untwisted to the point that they are no longer "cutting" and the usefulness of the pad becomes nullified. The hairs also become very flattened and require additional pressure by the operator to acomplish the same cutting performance that the operator was expecting. This creates a dangerous situation where you create swirl marks, burn the paint, or break the plate inside the pad. While the pad still looks like there is alot of meat, in reality the pad is worn out"

-Quote was taken from a post of his on Detail City regarding Edge wool pads.



I think he is absolutely right in that wool pads can do a lot of damage but not until the pad is worn out and the threads become untwisted. Until that point, I think foam pads are more dangerous cause like Anthony said they can get much hotter. Then again, if you replace wool pads when you are supposed to, I think they are very safe and effective.
 
ottoman, Great post:up



Wool pads are not my fav because they are soooo messy at times and they just don't have the longevity of a foam pad. If I use a wool pad I may use it on only 2, perhaps 3 cars at the most then I toss them.



I have found the "orange" pads to be just the ticket for my cutting/polishing needs. I have though heard great things about AutoInt's "wool pads" so I may give them a try.



Anthony
 
I used a rotary bufer for the first time the other day...with a wool pad and 1Z UP, it looked fine in the shade, but when I pulled it out into the sun :shocked There were so so many holographic swirls:scared . I then went over it with some PP and it looked a lot better, but ended up applying MP with a rotary..and then waxed. I dont guess I'm too good at using a rotary with a wool pad yet:(
 
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