Building a garage

JasonO

New member
This fall I will start the process of building my 3 car unattached garage.

Can you guys give some pointers, tips, things you would do differently, anything that might help?



Thanks



Jason
 
I have a couple of thoughts



1: Measure the space around your car. Many people will do this when they install a pool table. You want to ensure that the pool cue is un-obstructed for all possible shots. Same thing with your car. Maybe two bays just for parking (leave room to open doors), and one for working- with 360 degree unobstructed space.



2: Water-Proof walls and drain in the floor. As the above poster mentioned, there may be code issues, but gyproc walls will make it impossible to rinse your car indoors.



3: Air lines: If you have power tools, think about having airlines installed by your plumber.
 
4) lights : can't have enough of 'm

5) electrical power outlets : again you can't have enough of 'm (for vacc., PC,...)

6)airco , and /or heating so you can work at any season

7) insulation of garage-door(s) helps on the energy-bill

:wavey
 
Dont forget the CAT5 network cable, and two runs of RG6 coax so you can pipe the Speed channel to your garage TV and surf Autopia at the same time.



And - you can never have enough power outlets, or lights. I would think about a nice epoxy floor paint also.
 
Research....



Look at different plans etc etc....



Consult a contractor.



Possibly consult an architect.



Enjoy when done.
 
Guess My Name said:
Research....



Look at different plans etc etc....






Miata magazine will have a garage showcase soon (Maybe next month or maybe after that). Keep an eye open for it. You might get some ideas.
 
I put a LOT of thought into my garage extension. Make it extra wide and extra deep for space around the car for opeening doors fully and for working in front of the car if possible. Ad electrical outlets every few feet for convenience both in the wall and in the ceiling (this includes every where lights might be including the center, edges and perimeter. I even included extras for neon signage I knew I would eventually hang as well as TV's and stereos) Make sure the electric is balanced on different circuits so heavy amperage items like air compressors and welders are seperated. Be sure to have PLENTY of light. I prefer the security and better light provided by glass block. Well worth it! Get plenty of storage. Keep everything off the ground. Make plenty of work space. I have ample storage upstairs with pull down steps for storage of non-car stuff like weeders and rakes and shovels and junk!



Here is a link to my Sanctuary for some possible ideas of what works for me.

http://www.fototime.com/inv/9F368BFD46D2352
 
That's beautiful Brad. When I renovate my garage, I'll probably go with something like that. Maybe with a checker floor though ;)
 
Personally, I don't like tile floors as the cracks catch dirt and becme a maintenance problem. But they do look cool.



Yes, it is a lift. It just goes up about 3 feet. Good enough for brake work, wheel work and getting under the car. Handy. The best thing is, it cost me only $50. A friend had this in his garage and wanted to "upgrade" to a post lift and delivered this to my house for that measely sum! The deal of the century!:D
 
Brad,



What's the brand name on that lift, if you don't mind me asking? Someday, I'd love to have a garage big enough for an honest-to-god four-post hydraulic lift, but for now I'll settle for something that can put the bottom part of a door panel up high enough so that I don't have to sit on the floor to use the PC on it effectively.



Tort
 
Most important: 10, 12, 0r 14 foot tall walls if you can afford them. My building is 16' at the peak. 200 AMP service. Water Cat5 lines etc.



Plan for a smaller seperate "IGLOO" to house the biggest compressor you can afford. Another must is a Flammable storage locker. SAFETY first. An eyewash station or kit. A visit to the ER at midnite is NO FUN after blasting yourself in the face with PB BLASTER. Turned my tears PH to 4.something..BAD!!!!



FIRE EXTINGUISHERS AND CO2 & smoke detectors.



Yeah I know I'm blowing the BLACKFIRE budget all to hell but your safety is worth more.
 
the woodworking magazines that I get.. Woodworkers have been in their garages for years.. a lot of the things that make their space more efficient and effective works for detailers too. Also, look at Home Handyman magazine as well.. Fine Homebuilding has a special garage edition of their magazine.. there are really all kinds of resources.. then just sit down, figure out what stuff you will have and draw it out on graph paper.. works for me..



Dana
 
TortoiseAWD said:
Brad,



What's the brand name on that lift, if you don't mind me asking? Someday, I'd love to have a garage big enough for an honest-to-god four-post hydraulic lift, but for now I'll settle for something that can put the bottom part of a door panel up high enough so that I don't have to sit on the floor to use the PC on it effectively.



Tort



It's made my Precision Works in Maquoeta, Iowa. Model 6000. I believe the full retail cost is about $1100-$1200. I have seen them in various trade auto supply catalogs, Hemmings, etc.
 
Brad B. said:




It's made my Precision Works in Maquoeta, Iowa. Model 6000. I believe the full retail cost is about $1100-$1200. I have seen them in various trade auto supply catalogs, Hemmings, etc.
Brad,



Thanks for the info; it's definitely on my wish list . . .



Tort
 
One side is about 24 x 20 and the other is about 24 x 40 or so. It's been so long since I measured, I can't really remember. I can get two cars on one side and four cars on the other if I were to really stuff it. But keeping it down to four gives me lots of working room.
 
Brad,



It looks like you used an epoxy on the floor? Is that correct? If so, what brand did you use?



Thanks



Jason
 
One side is two stage epoxy, the other is polyurethene. They were done years apart since the garage sides were built in stages. The epoxy is in the large side and is 6-8 years old. It's been through many restorations and has endured everything I could throw at it.



The new side is two years old and is supposed to be even tougher due to new technology.



Both were professionally installed. I recommend this. I tried doing it myself and even though I consider myself a meticulous person, I followed directions, prepped, etched, etc, it failed twice within a year under the tires. I blame the inferior materials they make available to the public. Home Depot "professional" and Griots best failed. Pro-only materials are really beter. There is a difference. Pay to have it done that way.
 
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