Buffing oxidized white single stage with PC

A

Alfisti

Active member
I've been trying to revive the paint on a friends '89 Toyota Cressida (name in Australia). What a mongrel of a job!



It's a single stage (no clear coat) white paint that was oxidized to a chalky finish (1 on a 1-10 gloss scale). I read that white single stage paint has Titanium Oxide as its pigment and as such is as hard as it gets...it feels like buffing granite with a Kleenex!



The owner hand buffed it using Autoglym Renovating Polish (much more aggressive that DACP). That took it up to about 3 on the gloss scale.



I attacked it with various product/pad combinations on my PC.



I used #83 with both buffing and polishing pads, finishing with #9 on a polishing pad. That took it to about a 6 or 7 on the gloss scale.



The best results was a panel using the Autoglym Renovating Polish with a polishing pad and continually re-wetting it with QD (it would dry within seconds!...not meant for PC use) until it was just dust, which would burnish the surface to a gloss...probably an 8 on the gloss scale. But what a dusty mess!!



So much work and such a hard paint!!



Any advice?:mad: :mad:
 
Well, getting a 15 yr old paint job to an 8 is quite an accomplishment. Toyota paint wasn't the best in the world back then and 15 yrs of abuse, neglect, and just plain wear doesn't make for easy work or great results.



I'm not sure what advice any of us could give you. I don't see any reason for you to be angry or frustrated. It sounds like you've worked your butt off, experimented with different products and techniques, and got the paint in about as good condition as is possible. Getting from an 8 to a 9 or 10 will probably take a respray.



I'd just sit back, enjoy the results, and go on to the next car. One that is hopefully not a mongrel.
 
My girlfriends 1991 240sx in white was only waxed maybe about 3-4 times in its life span. It also sat two years under a tree and all windows had stained with water spots. To top things off both front and rear bumper had all kinds of marking from hitting various things. Plan of attack was



1. wash

2. clay bar all tree sap

3. turtle wax rubbing compound by hand (removed all bumper marking and got ride of oxidization)

4. 1ZUPP

5. 1ZPP

6. SONUS PC

7. Zymol wax



8 hours later and empty stomach I was proud to roll that car down the street. The water just rolled off when I tried to wash her again and the shine would be rated at about 8.5

DSC00216.jpg
 
brett, your words were very encouraging, I think I needed it...I was quite dispirited. Thanks! :up



MENTALLY ILL, sounds like your experience was very similar...8.5, aye? I'm feeling better with every reply! :D



Lowejackson, Mr UK :cool: , you would know better about AG...just for my education, why the SRP instead of #9? I have quite a bit of it and soon to meet with the AG rep for some of the Pro line of AG products. Sounds like you've used and have had good experience with it. (On a different note, your avatar implies you're an Alfisti...is that true?)



Actually, for educational purposes, I'd like to start a new thread dedicated to Autoglym. We get a lot of it in Australia in all the Auto shops alongside Meguiars and Mothers. For reasons of distribution (I assume) not as popular in the US and hence not spoken much in this forum..



Lowejackson, if you don't mind I'd like to get your input and experience about how you rate AG polishes compared to the more popular products on this board. :xyxthumbs
 
I prefer Resin to #9 as the Resin has slightly more cut to it and does not leave any fillers plus under very light application it seems to bring a higher gloss with the benefits of a sealant.



I have not tried any of the pro or bodyshop products but I understand these are even better. I think the lack of info on the non consumer ranges does not help Autoglym on boards such as Autopia.



I consider the Autoglym 'twins' to be a LSP and therefore do not compete against DACP, 3M etc.



Alfa fan? Yes :xyxthumbs Life is to short for a car without soul
 
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