Buffing out Klasse SG - Arms Tired - Help!

T

texas328ci

New member
Hi all,



I just finished with a thin coat of SG and am in the middle of buffing it out. MAN is that stuff hard to buff out. Maybe it's my lights, but it seems like it takes me 15 minutes to buff out an entire panel well enough...



I thought I read some tips on here about this a while back, but I did a quick search with no luck finding the post. Anyone have any pointers? Should I take it off with Sonus Acrylic Spritz, or another QD'er (I have the sonus AS, regular Megs QD and Megs Pro #34 final inspection.)



Thanks!
 
Eliot Ness said:
Have you tried this method with SG yet?



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30989&highlight=official+wipe+on+off
Click to expand...

Actually, no I haven't. This is my first attempt at SG. I'm guessing since I applied it with a moist MF applicator, it streaked a bit. Also, I did the whole car at once and then attempted to buff out. Ugh...lesson learned!!





Thanks SteveOST. I'll try the acrylic spritz. Next time I'll try the above mentioned method from Bill.



So much for following directions on the container :p
 
SG should be applied with a dry applicator. Applying with a PC really helps in making the layer thin and uniform. I have used SG many times and I have started to remove with a MF cloth under a dense foam pad with the PC set on 4 or 5. Once most of the SG is removed, I use a quick detailer and a couple of microfiber bonnets (they can be flipped inside out) and go over the entire car once again. The quick detailer removes any streaking and really helps in removing stubborn spots.
 
I either do the WOWO method or let it sit overnight.The key is to spread ultra thin, so much so you can't even see it on the paint sometimes. Following Accumulator's tip, I also use my breath to fog up sections while removing with the mf.



Oh yeah, those suede mf Cyclo bonnets did a wonderful job removing! :up
 
Here is what I did and had no problem at all.



First I boought a 3oz sprayer. I filled it with SG. Then I got myself a MF Applicator. I did one spritz of SG on half of one side of the applicator. The sprayer really helps control the amount of product you use. Fold the applicator so that the side with the spritz of SG is touching the dry side. Now sqeeze. OK, now do another spritz of SG on one end of the SG dampened applicator. Now very lightly and easily apply the SG to 2 panels. Then with a MF towel go back and remove, Do this 2 panel WOWO method til the car is done and you should have no problem.



BTW, I did (for sh*ts and giggles) apply SG to one panel and leave for 1 hour and had no problem removing it. I think that people really have the most problem when they use the damp applicator.



Also, the next day you could go over the car, as I do, with your favorite QD or Waterless wash. I use PB S&W followed by 4* UGE.



I have a 2003 Accord Sedan and use about 1oz of SG for the whole car. No kidding!!!!



I also feel that if you prep with AIO it will make life alot easier as they are made to work together
 
Makes things very easy right Bill. I have to say that I wanted to try SG a couple of years ago and was afraid. I recently had the opportunity to get some as well as AIO on a trade with another member so I figured I would try. I really dont think I will go back to what I was using because the results are near stunning.
 
Yeah, WOWO method is the way to go, apply it very thinly and not more than one door or half a hood at a time. Any more and it dries too much. If you're careful it's really not that difficult to buff off. Use an MF with a little more bite, not the ultra-soft ones.
 
I actually use the reverse side of an Ultra soft MF to remove then turn over to buff. I also recently bought a MF Bonnet for my PC and go over the whole car when I am done removing and boy how if buffs to a shine
 
The BillNorth method says not to use a QD to aid removal or a oily haze/film down the road may develop.



What period of time should be allowed before using a QD like Sonus Acrylic Spritz? I've read that 24 hours is required to cure, but I've also seen a suggestion of one week before using a wax topper.



Does Sonus Acrylic Spritz contain alcohol?



Thanks!
 
I dont use the sonus acrylic but I believe it is made to work with Klasse twins as they are also acrylic based. I QD after 24hours with no real problem.
 
wow, i must be buff!!! i can leave the SG on pretty much however long i want and i just buff it off with MF towel. yeah its a little tough to get it off compared to a paste wax or exp but i don't think its really that tough. the Wipe on Wipe off method does make it really easy tho.



Vernon
 
I, for one, don't use the WOWO method because it's easy, I use the WOWO method on my black truck because I'm concerned I will mar the surface with the force required to remove the SG. I havenâ€â„¢t tried the MF bonnets on my PC for the same reason.
 
The main thing to remember about SG is a little goes a long way. You want to put down the product as thin as humanly possible and use many layers. I can't stress the thin part enough. Do not use foam applicators, use terry or MF applicators. If you put too much down on one application, you will get exactly the problem you described. The first time I used SG, I had a serious removal problem because I put the stuff on way too thick. Of course it only took once and I learned my lesson.



I've been using Klasse SG for some time now. I have an application/removal technique that has been working very well for me. Although I don't mention it, my method involves the necessary cleaning and polishing steps prior to application. I apply it with my PC7336 at a setting of about 3-4. I use a microfiber bonnet (I prefer the Sonüs ones) over a foam pad. I sparingly apply the SG on the bonnet and make two long horizontal passes with the PC. I quickly go back over the area I just did to pick up the excess, then keep working it in to new areas until there is no more product left on the bonnet. I do the entire vehicle this way. After the SG dries, I use the following technique for removal. I replace my pad and bonnet with fresh ones and set the PC to about 4-5. Then I lightly mist the bonnet with some QD spray and buff out a small area. I immediately follow up with a dry MF towel to wipe off the excess QD. By using this method, I've found SG removes very easily and I don't get any haziness that sometimes happens when I do everything by hand. I reapply successive layers of SG, waiting a day between coats, until I have several applied.



You may wish to use Klasse AIO for the first coat or two. AIO is much more forgiving than SG. Use SG after that because you can't effectively layer AIO. The QD I use is Sonüs Acrylic Spritz. You can get by using other QDs, but Sonüs uses acrylic additives rather than polymer additives that other brands contain which may degrade acrylic waxes. Mequiar's QD is an example of one that uses polymer additives.
 
Great thread everyone and great info. I did prep with AIO, and I did that with my PC. I probably should have continued with the pc for the SG. Oh well. That's what this is all about right? I'll continue until I find the method that works best. Oh, and I did use the Sonus Acrylic Spritz to take the rest of it off. I'll let y'all know if I encounter any oily hazing.



I guess the first error was purchasing the large bottle ;). It's REALLY difficult to get just a little bit with that thing. I can see where a spray bottle would help out big time. Maybe a combination of small spray bottle and WOWO would be the best for me. I may have to give that a shot for the next layer.:xyxthumbs
 
I tried all methods on my black B5.5 and the best one I have was the WoWo method but apply it with a yellow sponge applicator initially dampend with disstilled water. I use a spray bottle to squirt the SG on the applicator. This is the only way I seem to be able to get it in thin enough.



On other color cars it doesn't seem to matter as much cuz you don't see the haze/streaks.
 
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