Buff marks. How to get out without a PC

I

Infiniti9169

New member
Hi,



I have been lurking around here for a few weeks now, and I have learned a good deal of info. I do have a small problem, though, that I was unable to find in a search.



I recently got my car painted due to a gate falling on my car. ( long story ) I just got my car back from the body shop, and they did a great job. I am sure, though, that they did not use a PC on my car since there are already lovely swirl marks.



My problem is there is 2-3 what appears to be "buff marks" on the trunk. It almost looks like when you put some product like polish or wax on the paint and let it sit there. They must have no buff that spot good enough.



My question is, how can I get this off without a PC, buffer, etc and without going to the body shop and have them deal with it and leave my car there.



Is it possible? I know you aren't supposed to use wax for at least 90 days after fresh paint. I have tried using a MF towel and some quick detailer to get it off, but no luck. I can provide pictures this afternoon if you need them to assess the situation. Thanks!



-Ryan
 
Alcohol wipedown might work? Also, are those buffer holograms or just too much product and it smeared on the paint. Some pics would help.



Have you tried a paint cleaner yet, they can be very effective by hand.



Jim
 
I cant really find the right word to describe them without a picture. All I can say is, they are about 2 inches in width and length, and I just wana say they look "blotchy" like they didnt get whatever product out with their buffer. Hologram sounds maybe like it, but I might be wrong what a hologram would be.
 
Ugh,



I really am stumped. I want to say yes, but because of the color of the car and how large they are, I am not sure. But if this is common in body shops, then I would probably say yes.



Let's say it is, what is the best approach for me to do. I know alcohol was mentioned, but the paint is fresh and new, and they body shop told me to only wash and not wax for the next 90 days.



Would a polish or something else do the trick by hand with a MF towel? Thanks. I'll get a picture up this afternoon to make sure that it is what it is.
 
I'm no pro but everytime I had paintwork done the shop told me 30 days no wax, not 90. That's a long time to go with nothing protecting your paint. All you are really waiting for is the paint to cure so the solvents don't get trapped by the wax.



I just got my car back from the body shop and I have some minor buffer trails too. The car is black and they barely show up, so I'm sure it's an easy fix.
 
Ok. But my question is, if it is holograms, buffer marks, whatever, how can I fix it or get rid of them without a buffer? Can I use some sort of cleaner with a MF towel and wipe it off? If so what product would anyone suggest to use for this. I couldn't get a picture because the lighting wasn't right at the time.
 
blazini said:
I'm no pro but everytime I had paintwork done the shop told me 30 days no wax, not 90. That's a long time to go with nothing protecting your paint. All you are really waiting for is the paint to cure so the solvents don't get trapped by the wax..
Click to expand...



The paint manufacturers all say 90 days. I've found that the paint continues to harden (quite noticeably) for well over two months. You don't have to leave it unprotected, just use a glaze (I prefer Meg's #5) after every wash.





Maxima9169- Welcome to Autopia!





Sounds like you might have two problems- 1) product on the paint and 2) marring (i.e., scratches in the surface of the paint).



To get the product off/out of the paint, I'd try a rubbing aclohol wipe, see if that will affect a solvent-action and loosen it enough for you to wipe it away with a MF.



A mildly abrasive polish/paint cleaner would be the next step. An OTC option is Meguiar's Scratch-X or the much milder Deep Crystal step #1 Cleaner. These will also be (very gentle) approaches for solving the marring.



I'd check autobody/paint supply places, they often have a wide assortment of products. See if you can find Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze. It's mildly abrasive and would be my preferred way for you to tackle the marring (oughta work OK on the product residue too). It works fine by hand and even leaves a little protection behind that's fresh-paint-friendly.



Deep Crystal step #2 polish can work as a protective glaze while the paint is curing if you can't find the #5, But I really prefer their pro line products. #3/#5/#7/#81 are all good choices for use on fresh paint, but again, you must reapply after every wash.
 
Accumulator said:
The paint manufacturers all say 90 days. I've found that the paint continues to harden (quite noticeably) for well over two months. You don't have to leave it unprotected, just use a glaze (I prefer Meg's #5) after every wash.





Maxima9169- Welcome to Autopia!





Sounds like you might have two problems- 1) product on the paint and 2) marring (i.e., scratches in the surface of the paint).



To get the product off/out of the paint, I'd try a rubbing aclohol wipe, see if that will affect a solvent-action and loosen it enough for you to wipe it away with a MF.



A mildly abrasive polish/paint cleaner would be the next step. An OTC option is Meguiar's Scratch-X or the much milder Deep Crystal step #1 Cleaner. These will also be (very gentle) approaches for solving the marring.



I'd check autobody/paint supply places, they often have a wide assortment of products. See if you can find Meguiar's #80 Speed Glaze. It's mildly abrasive and would be my preferred way for you to tackle the marring (oughta work OK on the product residue too). It works fine by hand and even leaves a little protection behind that's fresh-paint-friendly.



Deep Crystal step #2 polish can work as a protective glaze while the paint is curing if you can't find the #5, But I really prefer their pro line products. #3/#5/#7/#81 are all good choices for use on fresh paint, but again, you must reapply after every wash.
Click to expand...





thanks for the reply.



1) The rubbing alcohol can be store bought off the shelf and it wont hurt the paint?



2) "you must reapply after every wash" does this mean just use a pad and the glaze over the entire car or just the surface and then wipe off with a mf?



Thanks a bunch!
 
Maxima9169 said:
1) The rubbing alcohol can be store bought off the shelf and it wont hurt the paint?
Click to expand...



Yeah, regular OTC rubbing alcohol. It comes in two strenghts but I don't think it's a biggie which one you get. I've never had a problem from using it on paint, even fresh repaints.



2) "you must reapply after every wash" does this mean just use a pad and the glaze over the entire car or just the surface and then wipe off with a mf?
Click to expand...



I'd just use it on the repainted areas and use your regular wax/etc. on the old paint. The glazes are pretty easy to use, more or less a wipe-on-wipe-off process. The Meg's #5 is nice in that it can also be allowed to dry; that stuff is about the more user-friendly product of any type I've ever used and IMO it's worth the hassle to find some. You could always order from Meg's online.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top