Brother bought a boat...

Labster

Labster

New member
My brother bought a boat...not much else really to say. He bought it off some guy that was liquidating his assets before his future ex wife could take him for half his stash. Unfortunately, I don't think he ever waxed the boat and as a result, the gel coat is cloudy and in dire need of a detail. Somehow, my loving brother thought of me...oh effing joy. Figure why screw up a customer's gel coat when you can use family property as a test animal. Anyway, what kind of animal am I dealing with here? Experience, insight and advice needed!
 
Question or two.

1. Color of gel coat?

2. Does a "chalk" come off when you rub the gel coat with your finger?

3.Age of boat and brand of boat?

I am starting today, 25 year old, 17 ft. in-out drive, to do the repair of 62 snap fastener holes, gel repair on the motor cover, cutting and polishing the hull below the gunell's and painting the bow and tops of the gunnell's when holes are repaired.

Too hot to work more than a couple of hours in the morning, so it's going to take some time to complete.



Grumpy
 
You can search some of my boat deatails I've posted. You are in for a ton of work, you will need wool pads and some stout compounds. I know everyone like Megs 49, I think its lame.....use 300 or 105. If you have some photos I'll be willing to give my insights.



Cheers,

GREG
 
I use the 3M Marine Rubbing Compound on wool with at Makita for really bad boats...I find it cuts much faster than a product designed for automotive finishes.
 
Labster said:
He bought it off some guy that was liquidating his assets before his future ex wife could take him for half his stash.
Click to expand...



Boy is that guy going to hate his life when he figures out things don't work like that! Most gel coats benefit from a good paint cleaner. I'd hit it with DG501 and see if that is good enough for him.
 
Clean it with a high pH water based cleaner before buffing is attempted. Let the solution dwell/soak for at least 10 minutes, keeping it wetted with the solution, then watch if you see the "color" of the gel coming off, as that will be oxidized gel coat.

This will remove a lot of the oxidized gel before one starts the cutting/polishing process.
 
I know that this thread is old, but next time anyone encounters bad gelcoat, find some 3m Super Duty compound. 95% of the worlds worst gelcoat wont stand a chance against Super Duty and a wool pad on a rotary. Forget all the tips and tricks, just give the boat a good wash to make sure you don't contaminate your pad with dirt/salt/anything else that may be on the surface. If the gelcoat isn't bad enough to the point that it's chalky, try a less aggressive product. After the compound, finish with 3m finesse-it or something similar before a wax/sealant. The 3m Imperial products and the Finesse-it can be used on painted boats too.



Also, you shouldn't even consider wasting time with a DA on any gelcoat, especially if it's chalky. Having said all that, you better be sure the surface you are about to hit with the Super Duty/Rotary is in fact gelcoat and not a painted surface. I've seen numerous boats that have been refitted, where the hull may be gelcoat and the flybridge is painted. Super Duty can get you into trouble but there's no replacement for it either.



Boats are really not as bad some guys on this forum make them out to be. I'll gladly spend a week taking my time on a 70ft sportfish over messing with clear coat depths, finicky paint types and products non stop for 2 days on an exotic car. Detailing a car is more of an art, whereas boats are just basic knowledge and brute force in a sense.



Here's a link to purchase 3mSD Shop 3M: Super Duty Rubbing Compound



I haven't just detailed a few boats, I've spent the last 11 years working on 70-250ft superyachts as my day job. I may start working on a good boat detail writeup but I haven't had time recently, I'll eventually get around to it.
 
First Coast said:
I know that this thread is old, but next time anyone encounters bad gelcoat, find some 3m Super Duty compound. 95% of the worlds worst gelcoat wont stand a chance against Super Duty and a wool pad on a rotary. Forget all the tips and tricks, just give the boat a good wash to make sure you don't contaminate your pad with dirt/salt/anything else that may be on the surface. If the gelcoat isn't bad enough to the point that it's chalky, try a less aggressive product. After the compound, finish with 3m finesse-it or something similar before a wax/sealant. The 3m Imperial products and the Finesse-it can be used on painted boats too.



Also, you shouldn't even consider wasting time with a DA on any gelcoat, especially if it's chalky. Having said all that, you better be sure the surface you are about to hit with the Super Duty/Rotary is in fact gelcoat and not a painted surface. I've seen numerous boats that have been refitted, where the hull may be gelcoat and the flybridge is painted. Super Duty can get you into trouble but there's no replacement for it either.



Boats are really not as bad some guys on this forum make them out to be. I'll gladly spend a week taking my time on a 70ft sportfish over messing with clear coat depths, finicky paint types and products non stop for 2 days on an exotic car. Detailing a car is more of an art, whereas boats are just basic knowledge and brute force in a sense.



Here's a link to purchase 3mSD Shop 3M: Super Duty Rubbing Compound



I haven't just detailed a few boats, I've spent the last 11 years working on 70-250ft superyachts as my day job. I may start working on a good boat detail writeup but I haven't had time recently, I'll eventually get around to it.
Click to expand...





I woulds agree that if the boat is in bad shape the 3M and a rotary are needed for sure. the stuff has some serious power to it. I will follow up with presta ultra cutting cream light for a nice glossy finish. top it with some 845 applied via pc and you are gtg !
 
I had done a detail for a 5th wheel 37' montana. With the slide outs out!

I went through 1 and 1/2half bottles of the super duty. Everyday i came home with compound dust in my hair.

Even when i was using it i was still thinking "theres got to be something better than this". But really that is one of the strongest compounds.



Ha, brute force is true, the resin mixture is such a high mil that if you worry about buring through u really cant, you can turn it yellow and i would assume a blackish or burn color depending on color of pad,wool you are using. And, if you do you can buff right back over the hot spot you created.
 
Just do the high pH wash first, you will be amazed at how much easier it makes the buffing go. Less time, less product, better finish.

Grumpy
 
Ron I used to do that back in the day with single stage paint. Wet car , APC and non scratch bug sponge and rub off a lot of oxidation. Made polishing easier and faster.



Yes gel coat is much thicker than clear. I remember compounding a friends boat years ago and after there was a very noticeable difference between areas with and without pin stripe. Visible difference.
 
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