Brand new Porsche C2S - Quick Qs

S

sws1

New member
My long awaited 07 Porsche C2S arrived yesterday (Midnight Blue). This saturday is detail day.



I arranged to get the car without having the dealer touch it at all.



I washed the car last night, as it's supposed to rain today and be cold tomorrow.



Couple quick Qs:



For the most part, the paint is clean, but there is a couple spots of residue from the protective sheets that the car shipped with. Should I clay that off, or can a chemical cleaner remove it? (I'm using JW Prime). I'd prefer not to clay if the cleaner will do the job.



Any concern about using a Sonus Blue Pad (with the PC) on new paint to apply the chemical cleaner?



Thx





On a side note:

I only had the chance to drive about 30 miles yesterday, but it feels great. Very fast. Unfortunately, like my last Porsche (01 Boxster S), the Speedo reads about 10% or more too high.
 
Was it prep'd that bad from the dealer?



GO ahead and use a paint cleanser after the claying of the finish. No harm and should remove light toweling marring.



Follow-up with your favorite wax or sealant. Personally, I have Zaino on my black 997 C2S. Looks very good and very easy to maintain. If you do go with a sealant, do the wheels so brake dust will be easly washed off. That is unless you have PCCB's.



Also, for the interior leather, I find that the SONUS Leather Cleaner and SONUS Leather Conditioner perfect for Porsche leather.:bigups Being developed by a "P" car owner who went to great lengths in getting it just right, I highly recommend it. Smells odd out of the bottle, but it's great once on the leather as it does not add leather fragrance, but lets the skin itself release the odor. You sould know first hand that Porsche leather interiors have a very unique smell/odor as opposed to other leather car interiors. It's not overpowering, but a clean smell. Don't use a leather product that's heavy on leather fragrance or you'll ruin the unique smell.



Hope to see you over at RENNLIST in the 997 forum!



Regards,

Deanski
 
Deanski said:
Was it prep'd that bad from the dealer?



GO ahead and use a paint cleanser after the claying of the finish. No harm and should remove light toweling marring.
Click to expand...



I explicitly asked for the dealer NOT to prep the car beyond taking the paper off. Something about seeing 5 guys under the wash tent scrubbing the hell out of the paint scares me.



Also, I didn't say I was claying. If the paint cleanser will get residue off, then I won't clay until spring.
 
OK, so the paper was just removed. Good idea! That sounds a bit scary regarding the tent.:soscared:



When I took delivery of my C2S, I had them wash it first, then clay to remove any surface debris which can be knocked-off during polishing which then can be spread by the rotating pad. Once that was done I dropped off a 32oz bottle of Menzerna P085RD for them to test on another panel they use in the shop for training. These guys are highly skilled and trained quite often by both 3M and another mfg. After getting use to the Menzera, they polished my car and were just stunned on how well it looked afterwards. It looked like a laquer paino black when done. The entire dealership (both Porsche/Audi/VW) came over to look at it. Now, they're hooked on the polish, but cannot get it being a 3M shop and as it is now Menzerna does not import the full Professional line in the USA.



I would clay it after washing just to get all surface debris off. If you polish with the residue from the paper film it may very well marr the finish as it gets hung in the pad. Now that would be ugly. You want to get as much as the film adhesive off PRIOR to anything rotating on the finish! Failure to do that will guarantee marring.



Or, you can use 3M Prep-Sol to remove the film adhesive which also works well. Then wash again prior to polishing.



Also, if you value your finish (obviously you do) then invest in a clear paint protection film. Depending on where you are, there are several top-notch installers and products. It saved my hood from flying mud-flap which hit the film leaving it damaged, but the paint is perfect. Some do not like the look of the film seam, but when you drive a car like this they way it should be driven, you're going to get stone-chipping fast. Besides, film is a lot cheaper than re-shooting a panel, hood or fender and you keep the factory finish as new as possible longer. If you also do DE events or track it in any way, you'd be foolish not to have the film on it. Depending on where you are, I'd see the RENNLIST 997 forum.



Oh yea, as much as you want to "wind it up" during break-in, don't. Keep her under 4K RPM for the first 2K miles. You'll thank yourself later. Once broken-in, then wind it up. I changed my oil and filter just this past week so to remove any break-in materials and metal shavings which there will be during break-in. It's at 6400 miles now. The more you drive it, the bigger the grin on your face!



Enjoy your new C2S and post some pics when it's done!!



Regards,

Deanski
 
Deanski said:
Was it prep'd that bad from the dealer?



GO ahead and use a paint cleanser after the claying of the finish. No harm and should remove light toweling marring.



Follow-up with your favorite wax or sealant. Personally, I have Zaino on my black 997 C2S. Looks very good and very easy to maintain. If you do go with a sealant, do the wheels so brake dust will be easly washed off. That is unless you have PCCB's.



Also, for the interior leather, I find that the SONUS Leather Cleaner and SONUS Leather Conditioner perfect for Porsche leather.:bigups Being developed by a "P" car owner who went to great lengths in getting it just right, I highly recommend it. Smells odd out of the bottle, but it's great once on the leather as it does not add leather fragrance, but lets the skin itself release the odor. You sould know first hand that Porsche leather interiors have a very unique smell/odor as opposed to other leather car interiors. It's not overpowering, but a clean smell. Don't use a leather product that's heavy on leather fragrance or you'll ruin the unique smell.



Hope to see you over at RENNLIST in the 997 forum!



Regards,

Deanski
Click to expand...





Deanski,



I was just about to get Zaino leather (Z10?) for my 996 Turbo which is almost new

(5,000 mi). You made an interesting comment about the Sonus. Zaino sounds like it's fairly heavily scented so maybe not optimum for P cars?



thanks or any input!



tw
 
A good wash and Prime should remove any adhesive remaining, although you might want to clay any areas that have a thick layer before polishing.
 
Tommy W. said:
Deanski,



I was just about to get Zaino leather (Z10?) for my 996 Turbo which is almost new

(5,000 mi). You made an interesting comment about the Sonus. Zaino sounds like it's fairly heavily scented so maybe not optimum for P cars?



thanks or any input!



tw
Click to expand...



Go with SONUS! Made by a "P" car owner as well. See this thread on RENNLIST: Rennlist Discussion Forums - Cleaning 997 full leather interior & Sonus



I love Z-10, but it's too stong of a leather fragrance for a Porsche that's newer. Z-10 was a dead on ringer for Lexus leather. All other leathers I use Z-10 all the time on ones that have a strong leathery smell.



SONUS conditioner releases the tanning odor from the skin. This is as close to new as you'll ever get. Yes, odd smell from bottle, but on the skin, it's great! Another benifit is the way the leather feels. Somewhat "GRIPPY" or non-slip feel.



Regards,

Deanski
 
sws, welcome aboard! :2thumbs:



RAPGARD, removal



 Vehicle must be at room temperature.

 The ideal body surface temperature for RAPGARD removal is 60F (15.5C) to 80F (26.6C)





If body surface temperatures are below 60F (15.5C) or above 80F (26.6C) then:



Removal procedure should be performed indoors after surface temperatures have

been allowed to stabilize within the given range.



– Rinse vehicle thoroughly with water to remove surface dirt or dust and to help

stabilize body surface temperatures.



– Starting at the corners of each panel, carefully remove RAPGARD from vehicle.

RAPGARD, paint inspection after removal – Inspect painted surfaces under one of the

following lighting conditions:



Indoors under fluorescent lighting.

Outdoors under bright sunlight.



Important!:



If any defects on the exterior have been identified (scratches, dings, dents and other types of body damage):



– Contact your Service Manager and arrange to repair defects immediately.



Note:



After removal of RAPGARD, some vehicles may exhibit temporary paint discoloration or

paint swelling (caused by trapped moisture under the RAPGARD).



This temporary swelling is caused by the paint finish absorbing moisture trapped under the RAPGARD film.



This swelling will disappear with exposure to the sun or heat lamps within 2 – 3 hours.

Severe Paint swelling may require 2 – 3 days to recover. DO NOT buff or refinish paint for this condition!



Adhesive residue removal



CAUTION!



Always read and follow manufacturer Cautions and Warnings regarding use of product.



If RAPGARD adhesive residue remains on paint finish, remove with a non–abrasive polishing product such as, (3M Part No. 5995) light colors or (3M Part No. 5996) dark colors. Thick lines of adhesive residue can be removed with general purpose adhesive cleaner (3M Part No. 08987-aerosol, or Part No, 08984-qt. can) or equivalent.





Note:



Paint discoloration (looks like shaded or dark magic marker lines) can be removed with a heat gun using the following procedure:



– Hold heat gun approximately 3 in. away from affected paint surfaces and apply heat using slow oscillating motions until discoloration is gone.



– If discoloration remains, wipe the heated area with Isopropyl alcohol and repeat

procedure to increase surface drying.



Important!



After inspecting and removing RAPGARD, washing vehicle, inspecting and repairing any

defects in paint surfaces, moldings and glass:



– Protect the vehicle paint surface by applying 3M Perfect–It Paste Wax (3M Part No.

39526) or equivalent.



RAPGARD Disposal



RAPGARD can be disposed as normal paper waste. If unsure about proper disposal

procedures in your area, check local regulations.
Click to expand...
 
Great info!!:xyxthumbs



But remember, dealerships need to move the cars, not pamper them, so in doing so, they will do quick corrections. They do not have the luxury of time. Remove film, correct the paint etc.



I'd still use Prepsol or clay PRIOR to polishing.



Deanski
 
Well, the car is done. Here is what I did.



I washed it Thursday night (when the weather was warm) with P21S soap.

Today I inspected the paint, and it really only had very minor residue from the decals (right on the edges). Very hard to see. SO, I opted not to clay, and move to next step.



JW Prime to clean the paint (with buffer). Remove by hand.

JW Acrylic Shet applied by hand with MF pad (VERY THIN) for shine. So thin, there was almost nothing to wipe off.

Topped it with P21S wax for depth (by hand).



I'll post some pics tomorrow, but for now, the car is 100% spotless and beautiful (as a new car should be). The only downside is that this will be the best the car will ever look.
 
sws1 said:
The only downside is that this will be the best the car will ever look.
Click to expand...



Continued light polishing as needed will continue to refine your finish. Your finish will continue to improve for some time. :)
 
Speaking of Sonus Leather Conditioner for P cars, does their Ultimate Leather Conditioner yield the same results as far as the smell?



thanks!

TW
 
Tommy W. said:
Deanski,



Thanks for clearing that up!

My bad.



tw
Click to expand...



AH no big deal, we all do it. Some people like the 4-Star. Anythings better than smelling Lexol.:chuckle:



Zaino Z-10 has always been the one I used about 98% of the time due to it's leather fragrance which is very nice.



Deanski
 
Here's a pic. Only had 2 mins so couldn't take good shots of the detailing job.
 

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Deanski said:
AH no big deal, we all do it. Some people like the 4-Star. Anythings better than smelling Lexol.:chuckle:



Zaino Z-10 has always been the one I used about 98% of the time due to it's leather fragrance which is very nice.



Deanski
Click to expand...



I have some Zaino z-10 on order but I think I'll save it for the Recaro's in my

Isuzu V-Cross.

Ordered up some Sonus today from this site which I'll use exclusively for the 911 Turbo.



Thanks Deanski for all your info!



TW
 
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