Best way to dry a car "swirl free"

dab with a good quality MF towel--don't WIPE.

I DO use one of those SHAMWOW type towels and I haven't had a problem to date



If you don't really have a budget. using a good electric leaf blower works well i hear
 
A.P.D.- Marring during the dry-step comes from two things:



-Drying media that aren't soft enough (CD-test anything that touches your paint)

and/or

-Residual dirt getting rubbed around on/against the paint (so wash thoroughly and try to avoid fresh contamination happening between the wash and the dry)
 
I bought an electric leaf blower from Lowes for about $59 and it does a great job drying everything including the wheels. If any water remains in hood openings or door jams I'll dry those spots with a towel.
 
BobbyG said:
I bought an electric leaf blower from Lowes for about $59 and it does a great job drying everything including the wheels. If any water remains in hood openings or door jams I'll dry those spots with a towel.
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This.





I've been using a leaf blower for the last 2 years, and it's been a major help.
 
....I use a combination of DI water (CRSpotless DIC-20 system) and a blower. There is very little to spot dry at that point and it is easily taken care of. I typically use something like ONR (QD strength) in a spray bottle and a towel (gently wiping those areas).
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
dab with a good quality MF towel--don't WIPE...
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Heh heh, I'm pretty good when it comes to self-discipline, but I never stick with dabbing/blotting for all that long. When I do something like the Yukon DXL I'm gonna wipe.



Yeah, blowing most of the water off (I use an AirWand) helps a lot, as does a sheeting rinse (if you can do it).



And I almost always use a spritz of QD before wiping (yeah, wiping :o ) with my drying medium.



Heh heh, the CRS works well, but I didn't think of it as an answer to the "how to dry?" It gets pricey to recharge, so I don't use it on every vehicle I wash anyhow.
 
sheeting as much water off on the final rinse in conjunction with a leaf blower, soft waffle weave and/or microfiber towel, and QD works...
 
Alexshimshimhae said:
I'm ganna have to lookup this "sheeting rinse"
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just take the hose without any attachments and start from the top of car, slowly run the water down and most of it will sheet off...
 
BigAl3 said:
sheeting as much water off on the final rinse in conjunction with a leaf blower, soft waffle weave and/or microfiber towel, and QD works...
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the QD blast works great! Makes a nice slick finish too.
 
Deep Gloss Auto Salon said:
CR Spotless system.... rinse your car with teh DI water and you can let it air dry with no spots
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Can you really just let the water air dry with this system??
 
G37 said:
Can you really just let the water air dry with this system??
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IF (and that's a big "if") you can get all the non-DI water out of the nooks and crannies.



Noting that you can run through the (somewhat expensive) resin pretty fast, it can be a challenge to get *all* the other water off. E.g., on my SUVs, the roof rack rails tend to retain it no matter what I do, and my other vehicles have their own areas that can do the same thing.



While I do really like my CRS unit, I still dry the vehicle (usually with QD). The deionized water just makes for less spotting from the seemingly inevitable residual water.



Now, if you were to do *all* the wash/rinse with DI water, that would almost certainly allow you to just let it drip-dry. But with most water (meaning most "starting point water") you'd be replacing the CRS resin all the time.
 
I can't help but think that this thread seems to be putting a lot of emphasis on drying-process-induced marring :think:



Get all the dirt off, and dry with something that passes the CD-test, and it oughta be a non-issue. But I guess that bit about "get *ALL* the dirt off" is easier said than done.



Still, I'd expect the *washing* to be the main source of marring.
 
Accumulator said:
IF (and that's a big "if") you can get all the non-DI water out of the nooks and crannies.



Noting that you can run through the (somewhat expensive) resin pretty fast, it can be a challenge to get *all* the other water off. E.g., on my SUVs, the roof rack rails tend to retain it no matter what I do, and my other vehicles have their own areas that can do the same thing.



While I do really like my CRS unit, I still dry the vehicle (usually with QD). The deionized water just makes for less spotting from the seemingly inevitable residual water.



Now, if you were to do *all* the wash/rinse with DI water, that would almost certainly allow you to just let it drip-dry. But with most water (meaning most "starting point water") you'd be replacing the CRS resin all the time.
Click to expand...





Accumulator, what is the TDS of your water? I plan to get one this spring and our water is around 115ppm.....hoping this will help get more life out of the resin.





Thanks,

Rasky
 
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