best water sheeting wax

E

Envious Eric

New member
For those cars which are washed weekly and kept in a pretty pristine condition, what are some of the best sheeting sealants/waxes?



Something hydrophobic that makes water jump off when compressed air is used...

What is a good topper for that sealant as well for the in between washes. Think washed weekly, wiped down every week with topper, and waxed monthly.



My go to right now is menzerna power lock and chemical guys V07, but looking for something for a shop setting
 
RaskyR1 said:
This was posted in a "heated" chat on one of the Facebook groups a while back. Never used this wax myself but the video was impressive, especially for a wax.



Angelwax Body Wax

Angelwax Body Wax Sheeting - YouTube
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Not the best example for showing if a wax sheets. Should have used a strong "misting", plus the vehicle was "clean", so no dirt etc particles to affect the action.

Any good wax, made with a percentage of synthetice micro waxes will do the same, once it has been allowed to off gas the solvent carrier percentage needed in it's production.

At first, most will "bead", but with a micro wax based, it is the solvents that are beading.

If later, it still beads, that is usually due to the a percentage of softer, natural waxes in the formula.
 
If I do it withing a week or so of the last wash/QD-wipedown (meaning, oughta qualify for what you're interested in), both my FK1000P/FK425 and Collinite/whatever-QD do this well enough that I can spray them off with DI water and dry with the AirWand/compressor with good results.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Not the best example for showing if a wax sheets. Should have used a strong "misting", plus the vehicle was "clean", so no dirt etc particles to affect the action.

Any good wax, made with a percentage of synthetice micro waxes will do the same, once it has been allowed to off gas the solvent carrier percentage needed in it's production.

At first, most will "bead", but with a micro wax based, it is the solvents that are beading.

If later, it still beads, that is usually due to the a percentage of softer, natural waxes in the formula.
Click to expand...





I guess maybe I misunderstood what Eric was asking, but the way I inferred it was that he was asking what wax "sheets" away water best during a final rinse, which would imply a clean car after washing. The well known method for "sheeting" water is done by taking the stream of water from a hose (no nozzle) to flood the surface leaving little to no water behind. While all waxes/sealants/coatings will do this, the speed in which they sheet, as well has how many little droplets are left behind will vary between products.
 
You should see the way that water sheets off of the paint following a correct use of the ABC system. There is no beading and if they paint is in decent condition, on most, it just runs off of the very "clean" paint film.

In some cases, depending on the condition of the clear, it either just runs off or lays there in a flat sheet. There is nothing to hold the water.

Which is part of what the system is meant to accomplish.

Nothing should be left on the paint when it is done properly.
 
Ron Ketcham said:
You should see the way that water sheets off of the paint following a correct use of the ABC system. There is no beading and if they paint is in decent condition, on most, it just runs off of the very "clean" paint film.

In some cases, depending on the condition of the clear, it either just runs off or lays there in a flat sheet. There is nothing to hold the water.

Which is part of what the system is meant to accomplish.

Nothing should be left on the paint when it is done properly.
Click to expand...



ABC System is on my list of products to try this summer. ;)
 
Most products loose their super hydrophobic ability after a wash or two and settle into normal beading. I think you'd be hard pressed to beat just using OCW after each wash and just forget the monthly real wax.
 
This isn't meant to be rude at all, but what difference does it really make? Any decent wax will do it's job and a "wax" will all sort of bead the water pretty well. I myself like you OP like the PL also and I don't think for slickness and water sheeting you could get any better looks or slickness wise. If my opinion makes any difference though Collinite 915 always did well for me and is a very solid wax. I had the time down to 8 minutes before wiping off... it seemed to be easier there than it was at 10 minutes and at 5 wasn't quite hazed enough. Of course temperature will also play a part in it too though.
 
well, when I have clients who have me detail monthly, I want to be able to have as little water as possible on the paint so I can skip the first drying step and immediately go to CG V07 or OCW...saves 5-8 minutes overall per car, and if I am doing 6 per day, thats an extra car allowance, or an earlier time home!



I routine is PL at the post detail, end of the month mark, and OCW every month after for the next few months, then a protection strip and start over



month 1 = powerlock

months 2-5 = OCW

months 6 = powerlock

months 7-11 = OCW



Chad you were on the right track. I take the nozzle off after each wash to reduce toweling the car, but sometimes its not enough hence why I am looking for a possible better alternative, but it sounds like I have a good regimen in place already
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Not the best example for showing if a wax sheets. Should have used a strong "misting", plus the vehicle was "clean", so no dirt etc particles to affect the action.

Any good wax, made with a percentage of synthetice micro waxes will do the same, once it has been allowed to off gas the solvent carrier percentage needed in it's production.

At first, most will "bead", but with a micro wax based, it is the solvents that are beading.

If later, it still beads, that is usually due to the a percentage of softer, natural waxes in the formula.
Click to expand...



I think wax companies should start to market their LSPs as LSPs that still sheet and beads even after strong misting or on a dirty vehicle. Most beading shots and videos are on clean vehicles and of course just waxed. Applying pure silicone on paint after a wash will give the same effect not crazy 110 degree angle water contact but should be a noticable beading. :)
 
I find Opti-Seal + OID to sheet very well with minimal residual water.



Wolf's Body Wrap beads extremely well, but is prone to water-spots due to all the beading.
 
Dan said:
Most products loose their super hydrophobic ability after a wash or two and settle into normal beading. I think you'd be hard pressed to beat just using OCW after each wash and just forget the monthly real wax.
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Which product do you refer to that gives a genuine super-hydrophobic finish? I have yet to actually see a finish which achieves this, most products which claim such performance provide merely good hydrophobic (not super) character.



A point which is worth considering is sheeting versus sheeting. This is a point of terminology - detailers tend to refer to sheeting as the water runs off in a sheet but are referring to a surface onto which a single drop forms a bead. It is more common for surface science people to discuss sheeting in the opposite way. Yes, the water forms a sheet but instead of being repelled and sheeting off, the water will spread massively, into a large sheet. Contrary to the detailers discussion, the surface will not dry immediately, rather it will remain wet but in a thin sheet. The benefit of this is that there is absolutely no chance of water spotting and in fact the vehicle will dry more rapidly after a rain shower.
 
exactly why I dont care if a product beads!!!! million of water spots, or none....I would love it if the sealants didnt bead at all, and were hydrophobic and made the water run off the surface
 
toyotaguy said:
exactly why I dont care if a product beads!!!! million of water spots, or none....I would love it if the sealants didnt bead at all, and were hydrophobic and made the water run off the surface
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LOL - that would be heaven. It would rank beside having the world's best chocolate having absolutely no bad calorie content. I suggest the latter would be more profitable if you are determined to tackle an impossibly difficult problem!
 
So mid last year, I cleaned up my dad's car, figured it would be a test bed for a few LSPs. Saw it out in the rain yesterday and remembered this thread.



105vEGPvVGvNuF.jpg




Upper Pass=DG105

Lower Pass=Autoglym EGP

Upper Driver=Valugard One Step

Lower=NuFinish



I was amazed at how the Valugard sheeted so much it actually pushed the water off the NuFinish. In contrast the DG105 is holding on to the water strongly.
 
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