Best Process For Pearl Black?

C

Captain McFunk

New member
Hey guys. I've been detailing cars for quite a while as a summer job. My process is:



wash

clay bar

was

Menzerna IP w/ PC

Menzerna FPII w/ PC

Klasse AIO w/ PC

S100



This process just doesn't seem to get the black soaking wet on my car and some other cars I detail. I was just wondering what other products I could try out to get a wetter look, along with what changes could I make in my process to get a wetter finish. Thanks!
 
No need to wash after claying.



Well, you're using the good polish, that's for sure.



Red Mouse Machine Glaze really seems to bring the wetness out, and top with Natty's Blue, though S100 is also a suitable choice. Also, no need to use AIO - FPII finishes down just as good or better - make sure you arent' applying too much pressure and are using a soft pad, as the DA polishers tend to leave micromarring noticable on black. If you can get some Menzerna PO85RD or even the new Blackfire Scratch Resistanc Clear polish, these finish down even slightly better than FPII.
 
Are you sure the vehicles you're working on don't need rotary work? Are there still scratches left after you've done all your polishing by PC or are they taken car of?



-Shaun
 
If you can finish down on black without halograms via rotary (takes a lot of experience), it, without a doubt, finishes down better than a PC and leaves a better (even wetter) finish...but if there is a trace of halograms, it ruins the gig for me. And I have a feeling TA4...doesn't even have a rotary.
 
The combo that works the best for me on my Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura is:



- IP 70/30 RMG

- FP II

- RMG

- EXP

- Natty's Blue



I believe its arguably one of the best combos to get a super wet finish.
 
chaosboi916 said:
The combo that works the best for me on my Nighthawk Black Pearl Acura is:



- IP 70/30 RMG

- FP II

- RMG

- EXP

- Natty's Blue



I believe its arguably one of the best combos to get a super wet finish.
Click to expand...



Yup, this would be hard to beat. You might notice a slight improvement by going to EX (with carnuba) instead of EX-P...but the difference would be extremly minimal...and you'd be giving up a slight amount of protection.
 
All the scratches are gone after the IP, so it's not a problem of their being scratches or swirls left, it's just that the paint doesn't look as wet as I'd like it to. The paint is always very clear and deep when i get finished. I was just wondering what changes I could make to my process that would help me out.
 
Advice...not washing after claying will save time. Other than that...everything looks sound. But seriously, some RMG topped with Natty's Blue will add wetness for sure.
 
RAG said:
Advice...not washing after claying will save time. Other than that...everything looks sound. But seriously, some RMG topped with Natty's Blue will add wetness for sure.
Click to expand...



sorry, not familiar with all the abbreviations. Whats RMG?
 
toyotaguy said:
i was told that ex-p would provide more protection compared to EX.....not the other way around....
Click to expand...



Yes, slightly, but the Ex with carnuba will look wetter/better on black.
 
I have a NBP RSX-S and my current regimen, which is my favorite after 3 years of experimenting, is megs #66 followed by two coats of #21. I'll usually polish with FP by pc before btw. Ive used souveran, #20, UPP, klasse, nxt paste/liquid, p21s, nattys, and others also. RMG I have only used twice and it didn't wow me like it has seemed to do to others on the board.



-Shaun
 
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