Best clearcoated Aluminum wheel polish?

2

2000firebird

New member
I need a clearcoat safe polish for my polished wheels (lips), and was wondering what everyone recommends. with priority going to degree of swirl removal. i was looking at the powerball mini but if i can do it with something by hand that will be just as convenient. thanks!
 
2000firebird said:
I need a clearcoat safe polish for my polished wheels (lips), and was wondering what everyone recommends. with priority going to degree of swirl removal. i was looking at the powerball mini but if i can do it with something by hand that will be just as convenient. thanks!
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I use 106ff on 4" CCS pads attached to an 18v cordless power drill. If theyre clearcoated, polish them like you would your paint
 
Yeah, just treat them like the clear on the rest of the car. The same warnings about what to use apply too...I wouldn't want to use a powerball myself, and if you use the drill idea, remember that it's basically just another form of rotary.



The clear on wheels is usually thicker and tougher than most automotive clear, but you still oughta be a little careful so you don't end up having to refinish them.
 
+1 If they are clear coated treat them gently as you would your clear coated paint. Just wash and use a good sealant.
 
i've tried using poorboys ssr 2.5 with not much success... should i just try again? and are you guys doing it by hand or are you squeezing the edge of the PC pad in there? heres a pic of the wheels. i don't know if il be able to get it out by hand, but the flash does exaggerate the damage a little bit.



100_0296edt-size.jpg


100_0295edt-size.jpg
 
2000firebird- The bad news is that the flash doesn't really exaggerate stuff, just lets you see what's really going on ;) The good news is that those don't look all that awful; most of it oughta come out, with only the deeper marks (like the nick on the edge in the second pic...and what's up with that rusty-looking blemish :confused: ) looking too bad to safely remove.



You might try the small-pad-on-drill idea, just be *VERY* careful. I don't think the PC will get enough "throw" going for such a tight area (but if you have a 4" pad setup you might try it first and see).



If you do it by hand it'll take a long, long time and you'll have to use a very aggressive product that'll still break down by hand.



This is another case where I'd try to stay reasonable. Since nobody else is gonna see how it looks under the flash, only you will know ;) If you inspect from a normal viewing distance, I bet a little improvement will go a long way.
 
the little brown thing is just brake dust tar that likes getting stuck only undernearth the spokes.. just perfect for me. even from a foots distance they look great, but i just dont like thinking they aren't in 'good condition'. unfortunately i only have a 6'' backing plate so thats definately not gonna fit.



im thinking i could give these tiny pads a try. i was just reading the C&B on that f430 that got the full works (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Clark_VTR/Cf1k-1.jpg) is that on a porter cable? if i wanted to switch to the 4'' pads would i need a new backingplate kit with the pads, who sells these at a good price? im thinking maybe if i can get it somewhere in the range of the powerball price it'll be a much more worth going the pad route.

thanks for the help guys!
 
2000Firebird- Those little pads look different from the 4" ones I use on my PCs and rotaries...dunno if they really *are* very different though.



4" pads are great on the PC, really work well. I'd spend the $ for a small backing plate and some 4" pads (I usually just use the Cyclo brand ones myself). I can't remember where I got mine, but IIRC CMA and TOL and Danase all have them.
 
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