Does anyone have a recommendation for a bench top buffer? I am looking one primarily for buffing antique automobile lanterns, most of which are brass or nickel. I thought a variable speed unit might be necessary but they do not seem to exist. Almost all units are single speed with a few two speed units on the market. Perhaps a single speed unit is sufficient. I am especially interested in hearing from anyone who has used a bench top buffer for the specific purpose I have mentioned. Information on the subject of buffing this type of lantern is not easly found. Thank you.
Benchtop Buffer
- Thread starter DNC
- Start date
Brad B
New member
I have used a buffer 'extensively' for component polishing for classic car restoration for many years. In general there are 10" pads on 1hp motors and 6" pads on 1/2hp motors. I have both and 6" is sufficient for most auto applications. There are generally two speeds available usually 1700 and 3400 roughly. I tend to use the higher speed most of the time but for plastics and delicate parts or softer metals the slower speed is used. Much depends on technique and compound used. The main differences in price reflect the quality of the motor and how long it will last. Mine are Baldor motors and are among the best. They have lasted many years. But you can get the same results which much less expensive motors too. A freestanding stand is a must-have to be able to work in any position and angle. Mounting on a bench is too limiting. Look at websites such as Eastwoods for a sampling of good quality buffers. Budget buffers from Harbor Freight will work too, these are made in china and cheap but if this is just a hobby they can suffice. Check these places fir a start.
If you have more specific questions let me know. Good luck.
If you have more specific questions let me know. Good luck.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
I have the long shaft 8 inch with 3/4 hp motor from HF on their single tube stand, use three coarse 8 in wheels on one side and 3 fine wheels on the other.
Had it for 6 years.
I use it weekly, last week did two brass boat props, one large, one med size.
I have used for all the m/c I restore, various parts, like a hundred or so antique brass door hinges and knobs.
Works great, you end up with about $140 in the set up.
For stick rouges I have white, red, black and a green. I also use some automotive liquid compounds for some items.
I agree, Baldor motors are the way to go, but the Chinese are catching up fast since they really started after doing world trade.
Grumpy
Had it for 6 years.
I use it weekly, last week did two brass boat props, one large, one med size.
I have used for all the m/c I restore, various parts, like a hundred or so antique brass door hinges and knobs.
Works great, you end up with about $140 in the set up.
For stick rouges I have white, red, black and a green. I also use some automotive liquid compounds for some items.
I agree, Baldor motors are the way to go, but the Chinese are catching up fast since they really started after doing world trade.
Grumpy
lostdaytomorrow
New member
What is an automobile lantern?
C. Charles Hahn
CCH Auto Appearance, LLC
lostdaytomorrow said:
Literally what it sounds like... usually a kerosene lamp/lantern that was mounted on an automobile in the early days before filament-bulb type lamps were common.
Brad B
New member
Here is a Ford lamp:
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Whoa, I have to use a variable speed drill for some of the attaching smaller felt and cotton wheels.
I pick up the set from HF when they are on sale, very useful when doing motor cycle engines, some small wheels, etc.
Plus, I found that the 8" wheels have the same arbor size as my rotary buffers.
The 6" and 8" wheels come with the arbor adaptors, but need the 8" to go on the rotarys.
By buying a dedicated bench "buffer" you have the longer shafts. This allows you to put up to three wheels on the shafts.
Not so good with just a "bench grinder" to put the wheels on.
Also recommend that you either build or purchase a dedicated stand for the buffer, gives you room to work the parts against the wheels.
Being able to put the sewn cotton wheels on the rotary allows me to buff at angles I would have a hard time doing with the bench unit.
Nice job on the lanterns!
Grumpy
I pick up the set from HF when they are on sale, very useful when doing motor cycle engines, some small wheels, etc.
Plus, I found that the 8" wheels have the same arbor size as my rotary buffers.
The 6" and 8" wheels come with the arbor adaptors, but need the 8" to go on the rotarys.
By buying a dedicated bench "buffer" you have the longer shafts. This allows you to put up to three wheels on the shafts.
Not so good with just a "bench grinder" to put the wheels on.
Also recommend that you either build or purchase a dedicated stand for the buffer, gives you room to work the parts against the wheels.
Being able to put the sewn cotton wheels on the rotary allows me to buff at angles I would have a hard time doing with the bench unit.
Nice job on the lanterns!
Grumpy
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">I was at my jewelry store a month ago and not knowing you can get buffing supplies elsewhere, I asked the jeweler what he uses for polishing. He gave me a buffing pad and a stick of Fabulustre. The stick is as hard as a rock.
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">I thought I could apply the compound with my electric drill and the buffing pad. Nothing happened, so I went back to the jeweler and explained his compound was too hard. He explained that I need a high speed buffer, 3500 rpm, for the compound to get onto the buff wheel.
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">My question is from watching the Eastwood video on the basics, he used a electric drill and a conical buff wheel to polish a wheel. The electric drill does not turn at 3500 rpm. How can I apply my compound, which is rock hard, onto the conical buff wheel?
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">Are there buff compounds more soft and are not depended on high speed to be able to get material onto the buffing pad or wheel?
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">Thanks
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">I thought I could apply the compound with my electric drill and the buffing pad. Nothing happened, so I went back to the jeweler and explained his compound was too hard. He explained that I need a high speed buffer, 3500 rpm, for the compound to get onto the buff wheel.
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">My question is from watching the Eastwood video on the basics, he used a electric drill and a conical buff wheel to polish a wheel. The electric drill does not turn at 3500 rpm. How can I apply my compound, which is rock hard, onto the conical buff wheel?
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">Are there buff compounds more soft and are not depended on high speed to be able to get material onto the buffing pad or wheel?
<span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250);">Thanks
bunkeroo26
New member
Have you ever looked into bench grinders?
One that I have from 40 years ago has buffing wheels that can
replace the stone grinding wheels. I haven't used this for your
application, it is just what came to mind.
Heck, you probably could mount a router upside down and
then create a DIY buffer from that.
One that I have from 40 years ago has buffing wheels that can
replace the stone grinding wheels. I haven't used this for your
application, it is just what came to mind.
Heck, you probably could mount a router upside down and
then create a DIY buffer from that.