Bence's Fault: FK 1000P

SuperBee364

SuperBee364

New member
There are several people that I really listen to around here. Today's subject/victim is Bence. When that crazy Hungarian talks well about a product I have yet to try, said product is removed from the "order this stuff when you get a chance" list to "Today's Detailing Order" list. That's what happened last spring. Bence talked about Finish Kare's 1000p "Synthetic Wax" (don't let the name fool you. This stuff is a *sealant*!) being a good product. As I said, when Bence talks, I sit up and take notice. So what could I do? I ordered the stuff.



I used it as my go-to sealant for this passed detailing season. I would guess I used it on around 20 cars. Not a fleet, by any means, but enough to really get a good feel for the stuff. Previously, I had been using UPGP as my go-to sealant on customer cars, but UPGP takes multiple coats to really achieve it's best look. The wait time between coats made it impossible to do multiples on customer cars. So 1000p took over for this season.



Guys, this stuff rocks. IMO, it is easier to apply/remove than UPGP. Wassat? Supe's gone mental again... easier than UPGP to apply??? Well, yeah, for me at least. I've never been able to get a truly even application of UPGP. I've always needed to wait for it to cure, then hit it with a QD to even it out/make it look it's best. 1000p is applied and removed like a traditional LSP, but the removal process is sooooo easy. Think Zaino easy. And the finish it leaves.... wow. Upon initial removal, it looks kinda like your typical sealant: hard shell candy coating. *However*, wait a couple days. Let it age and cure a bit. Then take another look. 1000p, once aged, combines the best looks of a sealant ("Wow! look at that shine!") with the depth and glow of a good nuba. Bence said this would happen, and once again, Bence was right.



Cleanability is a top priority in an LSP for me. Typcially, sealants fail this category for me miserably. Not so with 1000P. While it's true that I haven't been able to go completely touch-free with 1000p, I have yet needed to break out a traditional wash media, either. A gentle pass with a BHB is all that I've found necessary to get a 1000P'd car completely clean. That's more than I can say for most other sealants save UPGP.



The jury is still out on environmental protection. It seems that is one thing that varies from car-to-car with 1000p. I currently have one of my cars LSP'd with 1000P to look at this further.



As for durability, this stuff lasts and lasts. The first car I put it on last March is just now needing a re-application.



Anyway... thanks again, Bence! 1000P really is good stuff.
 
What a comeback! I'm floored... :bow



But I'm glad when my contribution helps, and you find this huge tin of yellow sumthin makes the process more enjoyable with spectacular results!
 
What a coincidence, I put a fresh coat on this morning! It makes the paint look like a candy apple; almost a thicker clear.



Of course I'll do a full polish and 1000p treatment before winter.
 
I always compared it to adding a layer of clear coat to your car. Wait til you get a few coats on it ....OMG !!



Hitting it with 425 in between .



Yes this is all Bence's fault !!! He introduced me to FK stuff also.



Well it's like 12 hours later and this thread MADE me put on a second coat this afternoon.



I do have a problem and need some help. Application..... I know this stuff has to go on very thin , what application process are you all using ?? I have been using Viking foam applicator , it fits the can perfectly but no sure if it's a decent applicator.
 
i've too have bought a tin of 1000p, but havent gotten around to using it yet.



How does this feel like when it is applied a bit thickly ?



I still make the occasional mistake of applying nuba's thickly... so I better brace myself if it happens with this 1000p .



whats the best way to apply , wait time and removal ?



i just hope that it doesnt become too tuff to remove if not it will be a major turn off for me... hmm



opinions and thoughts from Bence and Super will be appreciated ! thanks !
 
has anyone used a 4 inch ccs and DA (udm/pc) to apply 1000p before ? what colour pad, and what speed ?
 
How do you get it out of the pad? I have not found anything that cuts it, and cleaning the pads is a nightmare.



Also getting it on the pad is a pain. Stupid 1000P can!!!



I use a red LC CCS pad.
 
I'm with Supe on this one........I enjoy the knowledge and experience gained from many around here..........especially Bence. It was he who turned me on to FK products, (Scottwax turned me on to CK & Optimum etc....) and had I known about FK sooner it would have saved me some $5000 in detailing product purchases over the past few years. lol. I'm one of those who buys it, tries it for myself before I can form an opinion on it. With that being said, 1000P, Pink Wax, #425 & FX-100 are staples in my arsenal. I agree with the 1000P being more of a sealant then wax statement. 1000p's gloss & durability couple with ease of use, made me a true believer. 2 thin layers of 1000p as a base, topped with 2 thin layers of Pink Wax is an insanely wet/glossy look on my black paint. I use my PC to apply both products on speeds ranging from 2 -3. Transferring the product to the pad seems easy to me. All I do is peel the pad of the backing plate & coat the pad just like I would in a hand application, then stick the pad back on the backing plate. No big deal really. Soak the pad in a bucket of dawn & water then clean the pad & rinse it well. works great.
 
I use FK425 to dampen the pad, and this seems to help get the FK1000P on it.



I try to clean the pad before the FK1000P dries completely, but I seldom worry all *that* much about a bit of LSP residue on my applicators; once I've put more LSP on them for the next application I never seem to have any issues from the old/dried-on residue. Not like it causes marring or anything (not that there's ever a whole lot of it anyhow).
 
I'm applying the 1000P with an MF app (haven't tried with a foam app), or with a finishing pad on my DA. I squeeze the pad, stuff into the tin, twist, and slap it on the DA. I apply between speeds 3-6. I work the first layer meticulously into the paint with a little pressure; the subsequent coats go on with no pressure. Removal is always easy, even with heavier coats.



I apply 2-3 coats usually.



When someone talks about "easier", well, yep, as it gives more visual feedback than a WOWA sealant. So you don't have to trust the product it's there. 1000P is physically there - for a long time. ;)
 
Damn you Bence and you to Supe cause now i have to try this........more stuff.I gotta have a yard sale with all the stuff i have since joining this site.
 
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