Begin Diff Before and After Pics but need help

R

Rover06

New member
Hello,



Newbie first time trying to polish my Black 06 Range Rover. Huge difference, very pleased with results, but still not to the level I like it to be. It's amazing what a PC can do.



Here's the products I used and process.

2 passes using LC Orange pad(Light cut) with Poorboys ssr2.5, followed with 2 passes using LC White pad(polishing pad) with Menzerna FPII. 3.5 hours per panel. Topped it with 2 coats of RMG and 1 coat of S100 wax. The second half of the car I switch out SSR2.5 for optimum compond and a more aggressive pad.



I really worked the polish in and make sure it was broken down, maybe slighty too much. Usually about 4 passes per application. The more aggressive polish would allways finish with the entire surface hazed. I have a very soft CC.





So the bottom line, I'm still left with a car that has those pezty micro scracthes when looked at in direct sunlight and it seems like the car is not as black as it used to be. It is kinda of glazy or more greyish.



Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.







The right side of the car I used Poorboy SSR2.5 & LC Orange pad (light cut) but on the other side I used Optimum Compond and LC Yellow pad(cut). OC was a little less abrasive than SSR2.5 so that's the reason I jumped to the yellow pad with OC.



The left side of the car actually came out better than the right with less of those micro scracthes, however I did have 1 bad side effect. Holograms. On further inspection I can see the left side has very fine buffer scratches over the entire surface and as you move your eyes around the left side of the car you can see lines of mini-micro scratches, which i believe causes the hologram effect.



Since I used a more aggressive pad on the left side,I plan on stepping down to the polishing pad with OC before moving to polishing pad with Menzerna FPII.







First 2 pics are befores and the next 2 are there matching after pics.



The next 4 are from the left side.



The last pic is the hood, which was done by a professional and the pic was taken right after he finished, however after I washed it a day later it look no better than what I had accomplished. I topped it with RMG and S100 which did not put it back in the condition he had it. He said he top it with 4 coats of Zymol Cleaner Wax.



Befores from right side of car.

IMG_2635.jpg




IMG_2631.jpg




Afters

IMG_2687.jpg




IMG_2677.jpg




IMG_2697.jpg




IMG_2700.jpg




IMG_2661.jpg
 
He said he top it with 4 coats of Zymol Cleaner Wax.
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LMAO! Whats that going to do? Besides put dust all around your ankles!

Here's the products I used and process.

2 passes using LC Orange pad(Light cut) with Poorboys ssr2.5, followed with 2 passes using LC White pad(polishing pad) with Menzerna FPII. 3.5 hours per panel. Topped it with 2 coats of RMG and 1 coat of S100 wax. The second half of the car I switch out SSR2.5 for optimum compond and a more aggressive pad.
Click to expand...
2 passes with 2.5? I think you may need about 2 more. This could be where your problem lies. Your not letting the 2.5 finish down far enough. I would try 3-4 passes with 2.5, careful of speed selection (which is also dependant on arm movement) Try about speed 5, 3-4 passes and see what happens. If ya get it all dialed in, you can actually have 2.5 finish out real nice, pretty close to perfect. The same with Menzerna, let it break down sufficiently with adequate passes. Again, "passes" are dependant upon arm movement, you have to get each pass dialed in with arm movement, for each product. Product characteristics are key.
 
What I meant about 2 passes with SSR2.5 and FPII was. I would but polish on the pad, do 4-5 passes at speed 5. I noticed the polish first being wet, then hazey and then somewhat clear before I stopped. (6 min) I would then repeat the process again (2 passes)



Same process above using FPII at speed 4.
 
Ah, ok.........You have made plenty of passes (At least it sounds like it) I worry about polishing until a product "hazes" though. If you stop too early, your left with minimal swirl reduction. If you stop too late, you run the risk of polishing with no lube, which presents halogramming.

Your paint actually looks good. You have made a huge improvement. You have to also keep in mind, we're talking about black here, and unless your going to keep it in the garage as a garage queen, your going to have to live with a little bit of imperfection. Its just the nature of blacks physical properties. I mean how much clear are you willing to sacrifice for that "Perfect" finish which is nearly impossible to maintain on a daily driver?
 
I'm thinking I buffed it while it was dry. It was easy to see the product go from wet to haze and kinda hard to see it go from haze to clear.



Again it was a huge improvement. Originally you could just see actually long-medium straight scratches all over the car looking at it in the sun. Now all you see is those tiny little scratches. But it is just odd, that i was able to pull all the big stuff out and not the little stuff.



I have a ? on the clear coat. The Clear coat has alot of orange peel still left in it before and after buffing. Can I use that as a measure of how much cc is left.



Also what gives with the hood. perfect until i washed it. (barely touch it. product washed away) Detailer said he used Zymol Cleaner Wax, he had the bottle in his hand when I showed up. He swears by it, but after checking the price (very cheap, OTC) and researching the forum its not highly recommended. RMG and S100/P21S was placed way above it.
 
^^^^ I agree with A.K.A Patrick ^^^^^



If used correctly you can have minimal hazing on black even with a medium aggressive pad/polish combo. Below is what helps me prevent excessive hazing:



- not priming the pads with a QD or water helps minimize the hazing.

- clogged pads can lead to excessive hazing - make sure the pad is cleaned or changed often.

- don't use too much polish, and make sure to break the polish down completely.



Here is after SSR3/cutting pad:



ssr3_haze_side.jpg




ssr3_haze.jpg




My sig has info on the breakdown stages of SSR2.5 and videos on how to use the PC





Good luck!
 
Anything that dust, IMO, has fillers. Thats why its washing out after washes. Any glaze will wash out as wel. Paint Cares use of SSR 3 finishing is beyond belief, that is incredible. The Orange peel is in no way a reflection of remaining clear coat. As with any swirls on a painted surface, you can polish all you want. At some point during your ritual, upon examination you will see remaining swirls that were not leveled. 100% have been minimized to some degree, but the deeper ones have not been completely removed. Heres an example: You spen a weekend in the mountains, admiring the stars above. The sky is dark, and filled with stars. You get back to the city, and all you see are the brighter of stars. Such is the same with swirls. The remaining swirls which werent quite as evident at first, are now prominant because you have eliminated surrounding swirls.
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
Paint Cares use of SSR 3 finishing is beyond belief, that is incredible.
Click to expand...





No way I could go from SSR3 (or SSR2.5/orange pad) to LSP on black...It still needed finishing, but my point is you can keep the hazing to a minimum by working the polish correctly. I was able to go to LSP after one pass with PO85RD and a polishing pad, though.





Here is after one pass with SSR3/cutting pad and one pass with PO85RD/polishing pad:



ssr3_po85rd.jpg
 
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