Based on autopian consensus, is AIO the *best* for oxidation removal?

M

mystickid

New member
Is AIO considered the *Best* oxidation remover based on a Auopian consensus.



Is there anything that competes with it? :work:
 
I have used it on cars without too much oxidation or none, but I do find that it really "wettens" the finish and adds durability. Do you have pics of what you are trying to do?
 
Well, I think my clearcoat is messed up because after polishing SSR 2.5 on a rotary w/ a LC VC yelow and Orange cutting pad, many of the swirls were removed. However, there was absolutely no difference in depth. In fact, after polishing and following up with a lighter polish, the clearcoat was still hazy/ gray-ish and this is a Black car. So I'm thinking, the paint is 7 rs. old, maybe its light oxidation that's covereing up the depth.
 
Might be the most widely used but not necessarily the best. I've had great success with Mothers pre-wax cleaner, 3M cleaner wax and many others.
 
I believe your haze is not oxidation. This would have been removed by SSR2.5 and rotary. AIO does have fine abrasives and may aid in eliminating the haze. Definitely worth a try using PC and polishing pad @ 4-5 opm. Another fine product that works well in eliminating swirls and haze is Meg's DACP when applied and allowed to breakdown properly.

Unfortunately, this wonderful product has seemed to fallen out of vogue. :nixweiss
 
Agree DACP is great at oxidation removal but AIO will be a good way to remove without using an overly abrasive polish. I recently set about de oxidising a car with AIO but when I noticed swirls I had to switch to DACP.
 
mystickid,



I'm thinking that you should post a picture or two. I can imagine what you're describing as either true hazing and oxidation or as the beginning of clear coat failure. I'd think it's hazing, but I wouldn't want to comment on what you should do without seeing it.





Tom
 
I think of AIO as more of a chemical cleaner/sealant combo than as an oxidation remover.



What might be happening is that the rotary left minor swirls that a PC can take out with a milder polish. That is often the case when I use a rotary. I always follow rotary work with PC work.
 
Mosca, here are some pics.



This is after polishing and PB's EX. The pics are kind of hard to tell on but in real life its not pitch black as I hoped it to be.



These pics are after SSR 2.5 via rotary LC VC Yellow then Orange @ around 1500 RPM. And Followed by P085RD LC VC white polishing pad @ around 1200-1500 RPM

then RMG via PC LC VC black finishing pad speed 5-6.PB's Ex hand applied. Where's the depth??? :nixweiss



2.jpg




3.jpg




5.jpg




4.jpg
 
You still got swirls there buddy :). Look at the last pic carefully, right about 7 o'clock. I'd hit it with SSR2.5 or Optimum on a white pad @1500, maybe a couple passes. Stay off the PO85RD until you get real experienced, its a toughie to use IMHO. Those might be from rotary inexperience too, if they won't go away use SSR2.5 via PC on a white pad.



Edit: Consider using 2 passes of SSR2.5/white pad/1500RPM then follow with DP FFP/SSR1/PO85 on a PC @6 with a white pad. Enjoy. You don't see those too well cause of the glaze, but you see em in direct sunlight.
 
themightytimmah,



I know man, I still got those swirls :nixweiss .After the 2 passes with SSR 2.5 and P085Rd, will my depth increase??? I did just that on my trunk, and th right after polishing the swirls and scrathes were gone but depth didn't change/increase.
 
mystic,



First if you have a clear coat, which I am sure you do, it can't be oxidation as they don't oxidize.



Second is your hood a repaint? This is the only reason I can think that there may be no true depth BUT with that said I think your cars paint looks pretty nice except for the few areas of marring.



You may need to go the route of a glaze and just leave it at that because you may be doing more damage than good.



Anthony
 
Thanx Anthony,



i definately got a Clear coat. i didn't know that they don't oxidize, That eliminates my whole Oxidation theory. Well, I don't know what to do, I guess i'll never find out why it's lacking the depth after P085RD, RMG, and PB's EX. or maybe *one day* I will. i guess i'll just have to live with it. Thanx again, :wavey
 
Does Optimum only make one type of polish in thier brand or are there different abrasive level polishes by Optimum?



IS the Optimum car Polish equivalent of SSR1 ( i.e. as a finishing polish)??

Thanx.
 
mystickid said:
Does Optimum only make one type of polish in thier brand or are there different abrasive level polishes by Optimum?



IS the Optimum car Polish equivalent of SSR1 ( i.e. as a finishing polish)??

Thanx.
Click to expand...



Optimum makes the Optimum Polish which will level 1500 grit sanding marks and also it can be used to remove swirls and then also you can finish out your polishing with it. It will finish the paint out almost as nicely as FPII.



At the end of the month Optimum will release its "Compound" which will remove 1200 grit sanding marks and finish out as nice as IP. On a silver car you can probably go right to your sealer after the Compound.



Anthony
 
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