Bang for the buck daily driver detailing essentials...

[eddiehaskell]

After reading the forums for a long while, I think it's pretty easy to get overwhelmed by the volume of products that are on the market.  I'm sure that all 1 million products have their use, but I'm at the point where I just want buy a few products that work, not spend too much, not have to work too hard detailing and keep my daily driver looking presentable for the next 10-15 years.  It's not a show car so trying to keep it looking like one usually ends up driving me cuckoo. 


 


So lets assume a few things....one buys a brand new car and keeps it in the garage when not in use.  Now what products should one buy that aren't too expensive, serve multiple purposes and are easy/quick to use?  Think of it as the essentials you would reccomend to a friend who isn't big into detailing.  Here is what I have so far.  Let me know it there is something that I should switch out..


 


- Sam's mucrofibers. $14. Blue for jams and wheels and yellow for paint.  I know some may laugh at such a towel, but some of the pros on here and other forums have said they use them without a problem.  They also pass the CD test for me. 


 


- Good WW drying towel.  $15.  I bought Chemical Guys Silk Effect WW.


 


- ONR. $15.  As everyone knows, this can be used for many different things.  I use it with the Sam's towels for the GDWM.  I also use it as a clay lube, QD and to clean the engine compartment.


 


- CarPro PERL. $20.  A little expensive , but can be used to dress/protect exterior trim, interior and tires. 


 


- Folex.  $5.  For cleaning carpet spots.


 


- Collonite 476/845.  $17.  I've read nothing but good reviews that mention how long it protects the finish.  Supposedly one can/bottle will last someone many years so it seems like a good value.  (applied with Megs foam pads).  I'm willing to give up looks for durability (i.e. not having to wax as much). 


 


- Nanoskin wash mit.  $30.  Seems like it would be a real time saver.  My least favorite part of cleaning my car is using the clay bar.  Granted, this isn't something that has to done all that often.  A $5 clay bar from Ebay may be another option.  


 


Total - ~$130.


 


Other than a few odds and ends like a detailing brush for the engine bay, is there anything else I need?   

 

[bunkeroo26]

Mf - yes, quality matters, but keeping them clean is just important. What is the cd test?


Great choice ONR with Gary Dean Method. Have you looked into ONRww? For multi purpose, the normal ONR has more applications.


I am a normal clay bar guy (although will change eventually)




Collinite is good, I would also suggest Optimum spray wax and Opti Seal. This combination does wonders and is super quick. Spray wax, then Opti Seal and the wax then moves outside the seal. As a bonus, these work seamlessly with ONR. (I go for time saving)



Haven't used perl


Folex should work, but woolite is also cheap.


You need a decrease for wheels, dirt, grime, engine. I suggest Optimum power clean since you can add it at low concentration to ONR and not harm your LSP. I think it is 8 to 1 or more dilute. It is also a great prespray, and works wonders on interiors.


Grit guard if you don't have one, for when you're car is so dirty that you need to do a two bucket wash.


I love the idea of this thread. If you truly want to keep your car looking good for years, think about getting it polished and adding Opti Coat to it. While this would be more investment initially, the time and quality will pay dividends for years to come. Cost 80 bucks for the coating, plus time and prep polishing. Of course you could coat it without polishing, but this would seal in all paint defects.


I definitely suggest Optimum car wax. The bottle claims up to 5 months wax, so I feel confident in saying 2 months.


If you don't want to Opti Coat, check out Opti Seal. It is its lower and less durable brother. The seal is easy to apply, is cheap and adds amazing reflection.


Yes, I know that you want to go cheap and easy, but with a few minor changes you can have a semi professional method.


I also suggest the full gallon of ONR, especially since you want to use it for so many things. Small bottle will go quickly. If you order from Chris Thomas site ultimate car care, they have a sale for February which is a free Opti mitt wash mitt with any gallon ONR or wash purchased.


You need some spray bottles. 6 bucks for 8 at sams.

 

[shortspark]

It sounds like you have a good, practical way of maintaining your car.  As you say, your ideas are perfect for someone who is not into detailing but wants to maintain their ride.  You are using quality products and not going overboard on quantity or price.  Me, on the other hand, do just the opposite.  I buy everything.  My car is a 2012 ML350 with the Mercedes option paint color of Diamond White and it is a garage queen, never going outside for a night or even when it is raining.  It is beautiful and is the kind of paint that all I would have to do is a weekly wash and then spray with something like AquaWax or any good spray wax.  Once a year I might do a complete detail with 845 or a sealant such as Duragloss 111 or 105.  I know that I could get by with even less than you.


 


However, that is not fun, at least for me.  I love to rub on my car and it represents a time alone where I can experiment with different products and be at peace with myself, sort of like therapy.  My goal goes beyond just keeping my car clean, it represents sort of a hobby like my golf and hunting/fishing.  Like most hobbies, I spend ten or twenty times what I really need to on various products.  Many of them sitting on the shelf for years after just one use.  I have dozens of microfiber towels that sit in my cabinets and are more a collection (like hunting trophies) than practical use tools.  There are times I put on a sealant that is good for up to a year only to strip it and put on something else within a few weeks.  I have electric polishers when I can easily do it by hand - and often do while the polishers and pads collect dust.  So on and so forth.


 


 Where you have a goal of maintaining your car in the most reasonable, efficient, practical and lest expensive way (and I commend you for that), I have developed an addiction where the fix required is not so cheap and easy.  In your world I would be in a constant state of withdrawal.  In a nutshell then, my goal goes beyond just keeping my car clean - way beyond - and represents a true hobby and a source of pleasure I look forward to in my spare time.

 

[Meticulous]

IMO some of the best bang for the buck products are made by Duragloss. I would take a look a their product line.

 

[Accumulator]

shortspark- I loved your post!  You and I are the same with regard to keeping our "good all-weather vehicles" out of the weather (in my case it's my S8), but we're completely different in how we view this stuff (you enjoy it, for me it's nothing but a chore).


 


WilliamWallacesWashAndWax- The CD-test is used to check washing/drying media, the idea being that the data side of a CD is approximately as hard/soft as average clearcoat, so if something doesn't scratch the CD it probably won't scratch paint.  "Test it like you use it", i.e. wash media should be wet with shampoo mix.


 


eddiehaskell- I'd add a BHB and a small mitt (to do the barrels/etc.) for wheels, and some kind of brush(es) for the undercarriage and wells.  Yeah, on a daily-driver


 


You mentioned Collinite 845; I'd use it on exterior plastic and other trim as well as the paint.  I sometimes do the same with 476S, but it might be risky for somebody else to try.


 


But FWIW, I've basically switched from Collinite to FK1000P due to the latter's better durability (still use Collinite on one car though, so it's not like I hate the stuff).


 


Now just for the record...*I* would consider a foamgun mandatory for marring-free washes, it's the only way I can keep a vehicle marring-free indefinitely.  But hey, that's just me.  Similarly, and again "it's just me", but I have zero use for a grit guard, due to my use of the foamgun (no dirt ends up in my rinse buckets as it gets flushed off the car the second it's dislodged).


 


I can usually just use a sorta-strong shampoo mix in place of a potent APC/degreaser for the engine compartment/undercarriage/etc.  We're talking about a new car, right?  So if you keep it clean from the git-go there oughta be no need for anything really potent, which I generally only use on the undercarriage of the beater-Tahoe during the winter.

 

[pwaug]

In the interest of "bang for the buck"--


 


The Nanoskin Speedy Prep Sponge is only $13 and does a great job--much easier than clay, IMO.


 


As an alternative to Perl you might want to take a look at HD Protect ($9) and HD Dress ($8)--two products, but still less than Perl.   http://www.3dproducts.com/detailing-chemicals/high-definition-car-care/high-definition-chemicals/hd-protect/


 


In general you'll find all the 3D/HD products very reasonably priced and very effective.


 


There are other ways to keep costs down that are also effective in detailing--a $3 Toilet Bowl brush is great at cleaning wheel wells, Dollar Store foam fingers on a stick (for in the kitchen) are great for washing the wheels behind the spokes and a $3 natural bristle pastry brush from Bed Bath and Beyond is basically the same as a $15 natural bristle detailing brush.

 

[Nth Degree]

<span style="font-size:12px;"> Let me know it there is something that I should switch out..


 


- Sam's mucrofibers. $14. Blue for jams and wheels and yellow for paint.  I know some may laugh at such a towel, but some of the pros on here and other forums have said they use them without a problem.  They also pass the CD test for me. 


 


- Good WW drying towel.  $15.  I bought Chemical Guys Silk Effect WW.


 


- ONR. $15.  As everyone knows, this can be used for many different things.  I use it with the Sam's towels for the GDWM.  I also use it as a clay lube, QD and to clean the engine compartment.


 


- CarPro PERL. $20.  A little expensive , but can be used to dress/protect exterior trim, interior and tires. 


 


- Folex.  $5.  For cleaning carpet spots.


 


- Collonite 476/845.  $17.  I've read nothing but good reviews that mention how long it protects the finish.  Supposedly one can/bottle will last someone many years so it seems like a good value.  (applied with Megs foam pads).  I'm willing to give up looks for durability (i.e. not having to wax as much). 


 


- Nanoskin wash mit.  $30.  Seems like it would be a real time saver.  My least favorite part of cleaning my car is using the clay bar.  Granted, this isn't something that has to done all that often.  A $5 clay bar from Ebay may be another option.  


 

 


The Sam's MF towels should be fine.  They are good when new but don't last long.  Make sure to wash in dedicated load with a "free" detergent.  Add some vinegar to the rinse.


 


I recommend more than one drying towel.  You can rotate them.  There will come a time when you drop one or it drags on the ground by accident.  Or you just haven't had a chance to wash it before your next wash.


 


Go for the gallon of ONR.  Also, make sure you are pre-soaking panels.  I suggest a garden sprayer for this.


 


Perl seems expensive but it goes a long way.  Mix 1:1 in a spray bottle.  This should serve most purposes including tires, trim, interior, etc.


 


Folex is fine but Woolite @ 20:1 is effective as well.  As long as you are keeping up with things it will do the job without a problem.  Can be used on just about every surface on the interior. (not the gauge cluster.)


 


Collinite is great but there are faster/easier options.  You didn't mention the color of the car.  For anything other than black I recommend Optimum Car Wax.  For the ease of use you can apply twice as often and still be spending less time.   


 


I find clay to be the safest/gentlest on the paint.  If you aren't planning to do any polishing then keep it simple.  You could always pick up a kit at the local auto parts store for <$20.  


 


ONR washes are great but a good pressure washing from time to time is necessary to flush out the crevices and behind trim.  If you don't have the mean for a standard 2 bucket wash, a few minutes at the DIY coin op wash just for a pressure wash is okay.  


 


Additional suggestions:  303 for the interior.  Something for the exterior glass.  I like Glass Science but whatever you like is fine.  If you drive in rain you will appreciate it.

 

[Accumulator]

I'll take some shots at a few of the above suggestions, hope I don't come across as contentious...just disussing it, OK?


 


OCW needs reapplied too often, I'd rather LSP a couple of times a year and otherwise never have to do anything but wash. Eh, that's just me.


 


303 is pricey stuff and IMO all interiors need is occasional wiping down with one of the Interior QDs.  My bottles of the Meguiar's and 1Z products are lasting a lot longer than I'd expected and I don't mean just a year or so (and that includes use on the daily drivers that haul dogs).


 


I'd be *VERY* leery of using a toilet brush on the wheelwells of anything I cared about.  OK, the rear ones of my Tahoe, but those are coated with black textured stuff.  The brush would mar up the plastic liners/painted inner fenders/etc. of my other vehicles...I have enough trouble not marring them up with far more gentle wash media.


 


Again, that's just *my* take on some of the suggestions, please poke holes in my comments, show me where I'm wrong (at least where somebody other than Yours Truly is concerned).

 

[bunkeroo26]

Yep 303 is expensive.   I use it just for rubber gaskets 


and seals.  For just those jobs, it lasts forever. 


 


Accumulator is right about having to reapply the spray wax, 


but if you seal any wax or LSP will have finished life.  


I personally think seal plus wax is best,  but it is debated. 


 


I have never used 303 on interiors,  but I would imagine it


would work good.   Hey, it was good enough for NASA. 


 


I wouldn't use a toilet brush either..... But we are talking budget, lol. 


I was surprised at the suggestion,  but it makes sense,  kinda. 


 


 


Accumulator,  do you think the cd test is fair?  I have always not thought so. 


 


I say this because I would never run a dry towel over a dry surface.


The total is either soaked during wash,  or damp during dry.


Even during buffing, there is a layer of Wax that the cd test doesn't


account for.   Should one do the cd test with their wash media 


and solution?  Would this provide more realistic results? 

 

[pwaug]

 


 


I'd be *VERY* leery of using a toilet brush on the wheelwells of anything I cared about.  OK, the rear ones of my Tahoe, but those are coated with black textured stuff.  The brush would mar up the plastic liners/painted inner fenders/etc. of my other vehicles...I have enough trouble not marring them up with far more gentle wash media.


 


 

My car is lowered a little over an inch so it's difficult to get a conventional brush in the space and do a good job of cleaning.   Never had an issue with the Toilet Brush causing scratches on the plastic fender well lining over the front wheels and the rear linings are the black textured material.

 

[bunkeroo26]

I guess that I misunderstood.  I apologize.  I thought I read wheels. 


Some of those brushes vary in softness. 

 

[eddiehaskell]

Lots of good info guys.  I'm also one of those that can get carried away with wanting to try everything, but I'm breaking out the wooden spoon until I have something that isn't pulling daily driver duty. 


 


My car is a silver BTW (Great for not showing scratches/swirls/dirt.  My last daily driver was black...silver from now on!)


 


I hadn't looked into Optimum Spray Wax until now, but what I'm reading makes it sound really nice. 


 


I found out tonight that a dedicated wheel cleaner is definitely needed.  I picked something up off the shelf and a pack of cheap $1 toothbrushes.  With a good bit of soaking/brushing I was able to get all of the embedded brake dust off with that combo.  The toothbrushes also come in handy for interior spots and engine bay detailing.  I forgot to mention that I bought the 6 pack of Sam's spray bottles a few weeks ago. 


 


For the wheel wells I picked up a few grout sponges from Lowes.  They no longer carry the ones that were popular years ago, but these should work fine. 


 


Accumulator - I've read several of your post during my research over the years.  If I remember, you were big on Collinite for a long time. 


 


Had I known about the Nanoskin Speedy Prep Sponge, I would have probably saved $15 and bought it instead of the mit.  I will look into the HD products after my small bottle of Perl runs out. 


 


The research I did on 303 is what led me to Perl.  I probably read 30 or so threads made over the past 5 years.  Some people liked 303, but some said the durability was bad (especially on the exterior).  I didn't see anyone say anything bad about Perl other than it didn't make the tires super shiny. 

 

[eddiehaskell]

OCW needs reapplied too often, I'd rather LSP a couple of times a year and otherwise never have to do anything but wash. Eh, that's just me.

What would you consider often?  Do you think OCW could last 2-3 months?  Given its ease of use, I may try it if that's the case.  My brain tells me to just use 476 or FK1000P and forget about waxing for ~5 months, but my lack of patience tells me to go with OCW. 

 

[pwaug]

I found out tonight that a dedicated wheel cleaner is definitely needed.  I picked something up off the shelf and a pack of cheap $1 toothbrushes.  With a good bit of soaking/brushing I was able to get all of the embedded brake dust off with that combo. 


 

If you give the wheels and barrels a layer or two of a good sealant every 4-6 months you should be able to clean them with your normal car wash soap or ONR without the need for harsh wheel cleaners.  Any durable sealant will do.


 


Another thought--Megs Ultimate Liquid Wax (it's really a pure sealant) often gets overlooked because it's over the counter.  However, it is a very durable sealant (should be able to get 4-6 months durability) that is really easy to apply (very thin) and remove that has a great look especially on silver.

 

[Accumulator]

Lots of good discussion on this thread, glad I didn't offend anybody (at least not yet :lol: ) with my take on things.


 


wwww-willywallywashwax- Yeah, I do find the CD-test to be fair *for me*.  Leaving my mothballed Jag out of it, the softest clear I work on is what Ford used on my Crown Vics, and if it passes the CD-test it's safe on those IME (and thus *perfectly* safe on my harder-clear vehicles).


 


The test really does need to be done in that "test it like you use it" manner though, and I should've elaborated on that.


 


To test drying media I have the CD *barely* wet/damp, a few drops of water will suffice (and I omit my usual drying-aid QD) to err on the side of caution; I *do* wipe mostly-dry panels with my towels so I want the test to be rigorous.  If the drying media don't scratch when they are dry (as opposed to slightly damp) and when the CD isn't soaking wet then I'm confident I'll be OK.  I see your point though, as I bet plenty of "safe for practical purposes" towels would scratch if you really worked at it, you know..."goal is to cause a failure", but I try to be realistic. 


 


Eh, some of my really soft drying towels won't scratch no matter *what* I try!  Just gonna buy things like that in the future.


 


To test wash media I get them good and soft by soaking in the wash bucket for a while and I have the CD wet with wash solution to simulate my foamgun-output approach.


 


I discount the "marring protection from the LSP" factor as the only LSP I consider effective in that regard is (very heavily layered) KSG.  (Note that I only use coatings on whels/suspension bits/etc.).  If I'm missing something there, eh...just more margin for error IMO.


 


pwaug- Yeah, low cars post a lot of challenges!  I have two floorjacks and stands kept near my washbay just because it's so hard to get in the wells, let alone do the undercarriage.  And yeah#2 some well liners/etc. are plenty tough enough to withstand a toilet brush.


 


And yeah#3, even just using a decent LSP (as opposed to a coating) simply makes all the difference with regard to cleaning wheels without needing Wheel Cleaners.


 


Your suggestion about the Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax makes me think how their Ultimate Quik Wax (I think it has some cutesy spelling like that  ) might be worth a try too, if only as a drying aid.


 


eddiehaskell- My  idea of "LSPing often" is having to do it more than once a year (!) but that's just my situation.  And the stuff I use on a few of my vehicles (M16, UPP, 476S) does need redone more often than that, but I like the "just waxed" effect. 


 


Yeah, I *was* a huge proponent of Collinite for ages, still works great on my '93 Audi (highly "imperfect" paint, to put it politely!) so it's not like I hate it.  But the FK1000P simply kills it for me, only downsides being a) FK1000P has a signature look that might be all wrong for black/red/ect. (great for silver IMO though) and b) FK1000P needs a better finish (less marring/etc.) than Collinite, it's pretty unforgiving in that regard at least on some colors.  But I use FK1000P on my beater Tahoe and the older Crown Vic, and both of those are awully imperfect!


 


The OCW I'm using on my wife's A8's recently repainted front bumpercover gets redone at every wash as it just doesn't have that "just waxed" effect unless I do that.  So I don't think it holds up as well as the M16 I usually use on that car, let alone Collinite, *LET ALONE* FK1000P.  I suspect I get better milage out of FK1000P than most people, but two-three coats can last me a full year *or longer* and that's on truly abused beater vehicles.   It outlasts heavily layered KSG, it simply lasts seemingly forever *for me*. No etching to speak of from bugs/birds either..I seldom bother to clean that stuff off between washes any more!


 


So *IME* there's simply no comparison between using FK1000P and anything else short of a coating.  No, I didn't expect that but I'm sure glad it worked out that way for me so pardon me for coming across like such a fanboy for the stuff. 


 


Oh, and.... [Heh heh, INSERT lecture about working on that "lack of patience"   Think  a little more long-term, I think it'll work out better for you. ]


 


I'm still using up my Z16 (older version), but for tires you might look into the DuraGloss 253, it seems cheap enough and I might go with that next time.


 


Ya know...if you used something like that Meg's UQW as a drying aid, you might not need anything else on the exterior trim.  I use ValuGard Fast Finish on the exterior black rubber/plastic trim of my vehicles (over 845/476S or by itself) and it works great for me.  I plan to try the UQW someday...

 

[bunkeroo26]

A year from 3 coats?

That is a good number.

Can you estimate application time for one coat on a sedan? Given a year for 3 coats, how much do you think the 3 coats costs you - easily giving cost per year.


I love your description of fk1000p

 

[eddiehaskell]

eddiehaskell- My  idea of "LSPing often" is having to do it more than once a year (!) but that's just my situation.  And the stuff I use on a few of my vehicles (M16, UPP, 476S) does need redone more often than that, but I like the "just waxed" effect. 


 


Yeah, I *was* a huge proponent of Collinite for ages, still works great on my '93 Audi (highly "imperfect" paint, to put it politely!) so it's not like I hate it.  But the FK1000P simply kills it for me, only downsides being a) FK1000P has a signature look that might be all wrong for black/red/ect. (great for silver IMO though) and B) FK1000P needs a better finish (less marring/etc.) than Collinite, it's pretty unforgiving in that regard at least on some colors.  But I use FK1000P on my beater Tahoe and the older Crown Vic, and both of those are awully imperfect!


 


The OCW I'm using on my wife's A8's recently repainted front bumpercover gets redone at every wash as it just doesn't have that "just waxed" effect unless I do that.  So I don't think it holds up as well as the M16 I usually use on that car, let alone Collinite, *LET ALONE* FK1000P.  I suspect I get better milage out of FK1000P than most people, but two-three coats can last me a full year *or longer* and that's on truly abused beater vehicles.   It outlasts heavily layered KSG, it simply lasts seemingly forever *for me*. No etching to speak of from bugs/birds either..I seldom bother to clean that stuff off between washes any more!


 


So *IME* there's simply no comparison between using FK1000P and anything else short of a coating.  No, I didn't expect that but I'm sure glad it worked out that way for me so pardon me for coming across like such a fanboy for the stuff. 


 


Oh, and.... [Heh heh, INSERT lecture about working on that "lack of patience"   Think  a little more long-term, I think it'll work out better for you. ]


 


I'm still using up my Z16 (older version), but for tires you might look into the DuraGloss 253, it seems cheap enough and I might go with that next time.


 


Ya know...if you used something like that Meg's UQW as a drying aid, you might not need anything else on the exterior trim.  I use ValuGard Fast Finish on the exterior black rubber/plastic trim of my vehicles (over 845/476S or by itself) and it works great for me.  I plan to try the UQW someday...

 


I believe I will order some FK1000P tonight.  Some of the results I'm reading about lead me to believe OCW by itself may be closer to a very long lasting QD than a legit 5+ month wax/sealant.  Using it often sounds good in theory, but in reality this car will probably only get a few rinseless washes every month. 


 


Do you think 1 coat of FK1000P with 2x/month ONRWW has a good chance of holding up 6 months? 


 


Anyone ever tried this drying towel from Walmart?  Seem pretty plush for $8. 

 

[Accumulator]

First, I do want to stress the "YMMV!" aspect of this stuff.  What works for me might not work the same for somebody else.  My vehicles are garaged, my wife and I are retired, my wash method is *VERY* gentle on the LSP, I use soft water...whole lotta factors that might make my experiences unique.


 


That said, I still wholeheartedly endorse FK1000P albeit with a nod and a shrug directed to the question of how it looks on certain paints.


 


Note that I apply it by hand as I find it easier to do a *very* thin application that way.  I do the whole vehicle and then buff it off in a two-stage manner (wipe, flip/fold MF, wipe again), always while fogging the surface with my breath.


 


Layering it- I've had some issues with pseudo-holograms when I overdid the layering.  So now I apply one coat and wait until after the next regularly scheduled wash (and that won't be for a few weeks) to add a second.  I generally hold off on the third coat until I either notice something has changed (beading/slickness/whatever) or I do it if I somehow have the time and inclination.  Or do a panel or two every now and then (there are usually some panels that suffer a lot more abuse than the rest of the vehicle).


 


So that's how I came up with the "one year from three coats".  It's not like I do three coats and then nothing for a whole year, though I actually *did* do that with two coats when we had an especially mild winter.


 


And as I noted in the other thread, I always apply some leaves-stuff-behind QD as a drying aid, so that provides  a (minute) sacrificial layer.  No, no...I don't mistake the effect of using that for LSP longevity; if the surface isn't slick at the end of the wash, if water doesn't blow off it when I use the AirWand/compressor, if the beading looks flat, then I accept that I'm overdo for another proper LSPing.


 


NO, I don't clay/paint clean/polish before every LSP applicaton.  Yeah, I know... !Autopian Heresy! but it works fine for me.  When I'm re-LSPing I skip the QD drying aid.


 


Works fine over the AIOs that I use- Autoglym SRP, KAIO, ZAIO, 1Z Pro MP.  No issues bonding to the stuff those leave behind.


 


wwww-willywallywashwax-  Aw man, you asked two Qs for which I don't have a decent answer!  The sedans I use FK1000P on (currently) are my Crown Vics.  Those are BIG but it doesn't take me all that long.   How long?  I simply don't look at the clock, but I'll say an hour tops and that included time on the creeper doing the lower sections just right and time spent doing some out-of-the-way areas that some might skip.  If I were in a *real* hurry I could do it faster, don't think of it as a "problematic" LSP; it's not wipe-on-wipe-off, but it's not biggie either.  "Just like any other paste wax" might be a good answer.


 


How much does it cost? I have ZERO idea!  I always LSP *VERY* thin, so a tin will last me for many, *many* years doing two Crown Vics and the Tahoe.  For a Pro, I do believe it would be quite cost-effective.  DON'T buy a few cans of it, one will last even a busy shop for a long time unless somebody goes all Karate Kit with the application amount.


 


Sorry I couldn't answer better.


 


eddiehaskell- I've never used rinseless washes enough to say how that approach will work.  I do think that one coat of FK1000P with a leaves-stuff-behind product used at every wash should last quite a while and longer *IME* than a single coat of anything else.  Somebody here had a different experience though, where the FK1000P didn't last as long as something else (forget what it was).  You'll just have to see, but I'm confident that it's a good choice to try.


 


I redid the Tahoe in January as a) I had the time/inclination and b)the rinse water didn't quite fly off the panels the way I like; it didn't really *NEED* redone.  That was 10 months almost to the day since the previous application (which had not included the roof, which somehow stays LSPed for ages), and that vehicle gets used hard (nasty winter here too).  No clay/prep I just did a quick refresher coat and it turned out fine.


 


A great thing in your case should be the way FK1000P resists etching.  YMMV of course, but it's sure worked out that way for me.


 


I think I have that same drying towel....blue on once side, gray on the other?  Works fine, no marring, did (does?) leave a bit of lint but not an absolute deal-breaker.  So yeah, I think it's fine and yeah, it was pretty inexpensive.  Be a little careful about rubbing the cross-stitching into the paint though.

 

[shortspark]

Accumulator, I always wanted to try FK1000 in comparison to 845.  You have convinced me - and I like your three coat method, it makes a lot of sense.

 

[Accumulator]

shortspark- I wouldn't try the FK1000P on trim though.  I've done it without problems on certain surfaces, but it's not foolproof the way 845 is in that regard.