Bad Rotary Advice?

Z

ZaneO

New member
I saw this posted elsewhere and thought it wasn't very sound advice, but I thought I would check here:



"You need to slightly tilt the back end of the buffer up in order it to have any effectiveness. Also rpm of around 2300 to 2500 is what you will need for most products that are used with a rotary...This is per 3M's application instructions and I have been using this method for several years with excellent results. Have never burned a panel or a body line."





What do you think?
 
Does this person own an M5 :hide:?





I rarely run my rotary past 1700rpm. My rule of thumb is this:



Compounding - 1700 rpm

Polishing - 1500 rpm

Finishing - 1200-1500 rpm



Keeping the rotary as flat as possble eases its control on the panel and minimizes any buffer marring. Tilting will put more pressure in one area, highlighting the buffer trails.



That is BS about never burning a body line or panel. I'd like to see 2500 rpm on a Pathfinder bumper. You will burn it almost before touching it.





Who is this clown?
 
2300 seems fast to me. But then again I don't know what speed my rotary is. I'm not sure about lifting the rotary. Seems kind of counterproductive but might make it easier to control.
 
2300 RPM is way too SLOW. I rarely run my rotary at lower than 3300 unless I am applying Nu Finish and then I do it at 3100. You should see the shine!
 
ZaneO said:
I saw this posted elsewhere and thought it wasn't very sound advice, but I thought I would check here:



"You need to slightly tilt the back end of the buffer up in order it to have any effectiveness. Also rpm of around 2300 to 2500 is what you will need for most products that are used with a rotary...This is per 3M's application instructions and I have been using this method for several years with excellent results. Have never burned a panel or a body line."





What do you think?
Click to expand...





That first line, "You need to slightly tilt the back end of the buffer up in order it to have any effectiveness", makes no sense. As long as the spinning pad is making contact it'll work.



But past that whatever RPM you use is only a small part of the big picture of abbrasion. Pad choice, pressure, speed (rpm), time on the paint, etc. all determine, as a whole, the amount of abbrasion for a given combo. If it works for him, good deal but there are many ways to get the job done.
 
ebpcivicsi said:
pfft, new technology.....
Click to expand...

I couldn't resist...



newTechnology.gif
 
ZaneO said:
I saw this posted elsewhere and thought it wasn't very sound advice, but I thought I would check here:



[really awful rotary advice follows..]



What do you think?
Click to expand...



I think that you're getting a handle on how to use the rotary as you spotted the crappy advice for what it is :D



The sad part is that not everybody who reads that [nonsense] will recognize it for what it is, somebody'll try that stuff and mess up their paint.
 
Accumulator said:
The sad part is that not everybody who reads that [nonsense] will recognize it for what it is, somebody'll try that stuff and mess up their paint.
Click to expand...



Well, I made a point to voice my disagreement with his advice, so hopefully others are a bit smarter.
 
If you look at the back of a 3M buffing pad package, it says to run the rotary as flat as possible(it even it has two pictures, one with a titlted pad with an X through it, and the other with a flat pad, with the word CORRECT underneath it) and to not exceed 2000 RPM, so this person is full of it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top