Autoglym products from the Autopia store, what are your thoughts?

Those are sorta the "Brit version of the Klasse twins". I never got around to trying the EGP, but I've used the SRP for years. I use it a base under carnaubas.



It doesn't clean as well as AIO but it has a *little* more cut. If we accept that AIO is basically nonabrasive, then the SRP is *almost* nonabrasive. You'd probably never notice except on single stage.



The SRP seems to fill better than AIO. I sometimes find that AIO can almost *accentuate* minor marring; the SRP doesn't seem to do that. But I'm not talking about a huge difference (note frequent use of "seems to").



The SRP has a distinctive odor that reminds me of childhood art class, sorta an "artist's oil paint" smell maybe.
 
AutoGlym SRP is very easy to use and I used to get good results with it. My only drawback with it, is that it tends to create a small/fair amount of dusting upon removal, but a mist of QD sorts that out.



My method for the two was to apply the SRP to the whole car and leave to dry for a short while. Then, with the SRP still on the surface, apply a coat of Extra Gloss Protection with a MF pad. This way, you reduce the amount of dusting, as the EGP dissolves the polish.



Leave this to cure for an hour or so, then remove. It comes off very easily and will provide a nice reflective shine that is quite durable.



Some have also topped the EGP with a Carnauba, or even added more layers of EGP.



I currently use SRP and EGP on my wheels too.



:up
 
Nick M's post reminded me that some people even mix the two AG products together to make a home-brewed "cleaner sealant".
 
I have been using Autoglym Super Resin for many years.



Until recently and the finding of Carlack 68 ( which im told is very alike to AIO) AG super resin was a go to product.



Mirroring Accumulator's post it has a minor amout off cut to it, and is less off a chemical cleaner than AIO. It does a better job off hiding minor marks which the Carlack/AIO will magnify/show up. On swirl free paint I would go for the AIO, on oxidised and swirled paint I find I use both. You can here the Super Resin Cut as you use it.



I like Super Resin that much that I buy it in 5 litres at a time!



As for dusting I have found as my technique has improved working the product and applying it very thinly dusting is not an issue even on black.



I used to apply it to thick with stockinette cotton cloth and remove with the same, dust heaven. Applied thinnly with a Foam hand pad and removed with a good MF, works a treat, no more dust than with Carlack 68.



As for the EGP, I started a thread some time ago, stating I had not noticed any extra gloss in using it, some people agreed, others siad with mutiple coats it did. That aside its a great product, again another of my 5 litr sized purchases. I have stuck with this rather than Klasse SG as I feel it may be easier to use. ( not SG experience to back this up). The product suprises people as it is very watery. I use in a spray bottle and spray onto a foam hand pad, spreads easily and thinly without using to much product. Again one of those product the thinner the better. Leave between 30 - 60 mins and as long as the atmosphere is not damp wipes off.



My tip if you can, is longer you leave it on the better. May a time I have applied it to the whole car night before and then removed the next day if the car is garaged over night.



AG SRP, AG EGP topped with P21s is one of my Fave combos on my dads silver car and was so on my old light blue car. Its looked good on every car I have tired it on, red, blacks, mettalic blue, greens. I think it would work well over AIO imo.



On sunday I did Carlack 68 x2 and EGP x 1 on a silver car, looked stunning.
 
The Resin and Gloss are easy to use products. The trick with the Gloss is thin layers and to leave it for at least an hour before buffing.
 
Autoglym say to do the whole car with resin them remove - I tend to do it panel by panel wipe on/off as people do with Klasse AIO.



Autoglym also suggest that EGP will only bond to resin, in the SG and AIO sort off thing, and that additional layers of EGp should be 24 hours apart.



Give them a try I say.
 
Detail girl, what the others said. :up



Autoglym are class products. SRP and EGP are repackaged versions of their pro line and produce pro results.



Work SRP in well and apply thinly to avoid dusting. Allow to cure as long as possible...best over-night.



Spray EGP rather than pour. Apply very, very thinly...allow to cure several hours...best over-night.



Both will darken dark colours slightly and provide good durability.
 
I tend to use the Autoglym 'twins' as a two stage LSP (oxymoron?). I apply the Resin very gently and take a different route to Rich, I apply to the entire exterior and leave it for at least an hour.



I guess if you wanted maximum protection, wait 24 hours before adding the Gloss.



It is a range that you can experiment and play around with.
 
detailgirl - I echo everything that has been said above - AG SRP & EGP are highly recommended.



SRP really is easy to use and doesn't dust if it is thin enough applied. I agree that it can be "worked" into the paint to provide cleaning action. I have only used them both by hand though.



EGP can be left on for "a few hours" to cure (according to the AG website) - i tend to leave it at least 30 mins and leave it as long as I can usually. EGP can definately by layered and (imo) improves depth and gloss with each coat. It is so easy to apply it can be done very quickly - but then waiting for it to cure adds to the application time.



durability: - I don't think the SRP on it's own is too good for durability. I used to use it on my wife's last car (a silver Audi) and it looked great - very slick and shiny (not deep), but it would only last maybe 4 weeks with weekly washing.

However - the EGP proved to be VERY durable and has been my car's (2001 BMW 3-series) winter protectant. With3 coats of EGP lasting from last October through to about 3 weeks ago!!!



Finally - it makes a great base for acarnauba - with #16 being my topper of choice (although P21s as discussed by Richt) is also a great combo!



go try them
 
Accumulator said:


The SRP seems to fill better than AIO. I sometimes find that AIO can almost *accentuate* minor marring; the SRP doesn't seem to do that. But I'm not talking about a huge difference (note frequent use of "seems to").
Click to expand...



Does SRP contain fillers? I used them to do a side by side comparsion and agreed your opinions that AIO hardly improve decrease marring. I thought SRP removed minor marring rather than hid them??????????



Buffing off SRP is more dusty than AIO.
 
SRP and EGP are fantasti products and in my mind are overlooked here in the UL because you can basically get them everywhere. The only PITA with SRP is that it stains plastic trim, wheres AIO is great on plastic trim. It doesn't stop me using it though.



Ben
 
Just completed an Easter special on my car - four days off in a row! woohoo!



Wash with AG Shampoo

Clay Magic (Perfect Finish) ALL paintwork

SRP, applied to whole car then buffed off

EGP, applied to whole car then buffed off

P21S, applied to whole car then buffed off.



(If I'd been quicker I'd have left the EGP overnight and put on another coat of EGP in the morning)



SRP is a little dusty if applied generously, but older paints will need a couple of sessions of SRP to clear out any hazing. Weekly coats of SRP will breathe new life back into old paint over time. It seems to have some restoring properties.



My first real experience with clay (clay magic - perfect finish) and I'm over the moon with it. Reflection clarity is much improved and paint surface is extremely smooth. Reflection from metallic flecks in the silver paint was the best I've ever seen it. Rain today produced huge beads of water on the roof!



:satisfied: >:0))
 
I can't add much more, except that I've haven't let EGP sit for too long.. half hour at most I'd say. I'm just too impatient. Applied one coat of SRP, did not remove, and immediately followed up with EGP on my mom's car Thanksgiving weekend. I was just washing it today and the paint still felt pretty slick and it is still beading. So 4 months. Put a coat of liquid souveran on the horizontal surfaces today, so that pretty much kills my durability test on that car. Been about 5.5 months on my car and it still looks good and is still beading, but I had a couple coats of EGP on it.



Here in a couple weeks I'll probably go ahead redo both cars.



I put the SRP in a small bottle that allows me to drip out just one drip at a time on to a Sonus DAS Blue pad. I put EGP in a small spray bottle and apply it with a Sonus MF applicator. Removed by hand or with a Sonus MF bonnet over the stock PC pad.



I like both products and am glad that David decided to continue carrying them! Guess I added more than I thought :)
 
opass said:
Does SRP contain fillers? I used them to do a side by side comparsion and agreed your opinions that AIO hardly improve decrease marring. I thought SRP removed minor marring rather than hid them??????????
Click to expand...



I dunno if it contains "fillers", but I suspect that it might at least leave "heavier stuff" (really scientific term, that :o ) behind than AIO does. This would fill to some extent or at least it would *not* result in the kind of "swirl highlighting" you can get with other products.



The mild abrasives in the SRP *barely* result in any paint transfer from the soft lacquer on my Jag. A second application (*NOT* to get into a "can you layer SRP" :argue ) does *not* result in any paint transfer unless I rub exceptionally hard. So IMO the abrasives are very, very mild and almost certainly too mild to do *any* correction on the average clearcoat.



So I take the two observations above and just say that generally SRP is a bit more forgiving on an imperfect finish than AIO. And FWIW, I've had some pretty incredible results on some pretty imperfect vehicles using SRP x 2 (second coat a day later and applied *very* gently) followed by Meg's #16 (same two coat approach). That's my usual friends/family combo and they always get months of beading/slickness/good looks even when they don't wash properly.
 
Older labelled bottles of AG SRP when I first started buying it about 10 years ago, used to recommend a second light application 24 hours later.



On single stage paint I used to get a fair amount off paint transfer on the first application and very little with the next.



I have used it to polish out very minor marks in clearcoat with a few applications.
 
In Indonesia, i prefer using Car Lack 68 over Autoglym.

Not because of performance but on price.Autoglym is consider a high end product in here, while Car Lack is OTC product AG sold for aroun $ 15, while I can get Carlack for $9
 
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