Applying products over uncured sealants (DWG over UPGP)

D

danforz

New member
Hey guys



I have a question regarding the curing of UPGP and applying DWG over it with out allowing it to cure.



I got this idea from a pro detailer on here. He would apply wax right after applying Z5. The loss in durability was no consequence because he saw that car ever 4 months or so.



So in my case, lets assume UPGP gets only a 1 hour cure time prior to applying DWG (by hand). What are your expectations for loss of durability/looks?
 
I'm not sure what problem you are trying to solve. Call me a naysayer, but you could just get similar looks with another product and not play home chemist and compromise on protection/durability.
 
UPGP does take a long time to cure. I always put down the DWG first, *then* the UPGP. Looks great, lasts a long time. Not sure why you would want to put the UPGP down first?
 
Danforz said:
Naysayer,



what product would develop the looks of DWG + UPGP as they are described on this forum?
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That's it exactly, nothing. However the combo mixed together without proper curing times will likely be beat by a single step product. I'm thinking you are going to be the worst out of each by not applying it correctly. But let us know how it goes. Do half a panel the right way and half the quick way.
 
SuperBee364 said:
UPGP does take a long time to cure. I always put down the DWG first, *then* the UPGP. Looks great, lasts a long time. Not sure why you would want to put the UPGP down first?
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I take it then DWG has no cure time? Additionally, don't you put the best looking product on last - in this case I'd assume its the DWG?
 
DAG has no cure time, and I've gotten great results by putting upgp over it. IMO, DWG is best used as pre-LSP, like a regular glaze.
 
SuperBee364 said:
DAG has no cure time, and I've gotten great results by putting upgp over it. IMO, DWG is best used as pre-LSP, like a regular glaze.
Click to expand...



Interesting. I may give that a try. However, assuming that UPGP last longer than DWG, wouldn't you be losing durability?
 
Danforz said:
Interesting. I may give that a try. However, assuming that UPGP last longer than DWG, wouldn't you be losing durability?
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Probably, but the DWG/UPGP combo is so durable that I can't leave the paint alone long enough to see exactly how long it *does* last. I've had DWG/UPGP last through four winter months.



IME, DWG is best applied with a PC, and really worked into the paint. Doing that over the top of any other LSP is gonna take it off really quick.



And if you compare the look of a hand-applied layer of DWG to one that has been machine buffed, you really can tell the difference; the machined panel will look better.



Even though the bottle says it can be layered, etc., remember that it is marketed as a "glaze", and glazes are meant to be applied as a base coat, prior to your primary LSP.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Probably, but the DWG/UPGP combo is so durable that I can't leave the paint alone long enough to see exactly how long it *does* last. I've had DWG/UPGP last through four winter months.



IME, DWG is best applied with a PC, and really worked into the paint. Doing that over the top of any other LSP is gonna take it off really quick.



And if you compare the look of a hand-applied layer of DWG to one that has been machine buffed, you really can tell the difference; the machined panel will look better.



Even though the bottle says it can be layered, etc., remember that it is marketed as a "glaze", and glazes are meant to be applied as a base coat, prior to your primary LSP.
Click to expand...



Superbee, thank you for the heads up. I will follow our advice to the T and take some photos next opportunity.
 
SuperBee364 said:
Probably, but the DWG/UPGP combo is so durable that I can't leave the paint alone long enough to see exactly how long it *does* last. I've had DWG/UPGP last through four winter months.



IME, DWG is best applied with a PC, and really worked into the paint. Doing that over the top of any other LSP is gonna take it off really quick.



And if you compare the look of a hand-applied layer of DWG to one that has been machine buffed, you really can tell the difference; the machined panel will look better.



Even though the bottle says it can be layered, etc., remember that it is marketed as a "glaze", and glazes are meant to be applied as a base coat, prior to your primary LSP.
Click to expand...



Superbee, thank you for the heads up. I will follow our advice to the T and take some photos next opportunity.
 
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