Apollo Detailing: 14hr Correction! Black 2001 BMW 540i

Holden_C04

New member
2001 BMW 540i



This car was purchased about two weeks prior to this detail. The owner was considering a repaint, but he saw how much of an improvement I could make based upon my threads I posted on a local BMW forum.



To say that this car was hammered would be an understatement. It seemed as though it had been washed by the previous owner with a brillo pad and dawn. There was zero wax protection and about two-dozen tree sap deposits.



Wash & Clay



Bodypro Shampoo Gel

Home Depot GS

Riccardo Clay

ONR Clay Lubricant



Paint Correction



Dewalt DW849

Menzerna PG on PFW

Menzerna IP on White

Menzerna FP on White



Protection



Swissvax Saphir applied by bare hand













Before Pictures





540i001.jpg


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540i006.jpg


540i007.jpg


540i008.jpg


540i009.jpg


540i010.jpg


540i011.jpg










After Pictures









540i012.jpg


540i014.jpg


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540i018.jpg






Started at 9:00 AM, completed at 11:00 PM. Began the drive home at 12:00 AM.
 
tdekany said:
Was that jet black or carbon black? I just spent 29 hours on a carbon black M5



According to a site I read, Carbon Black has a blue hue to it. This E39 did not. So, I guess that would suggest it's jet black.
 
tdekany said:
Was that jet black or carbon black? I just spent 29 hours on a carbon black M5



Good God, that is not what I want to hear...I have a detail scheduled for a 545 in carbon black... have any pics, details, or tips? :lol
 
Nice car. Too bad you couldn't take any pics of it outside in sunlight. 1 thing I'd like to suggest to you as constructive criticizm is improving your clay technique. I couldn't 100% tell from your video but you wnet from the top of the left fender to the center of the hood to the right fender? And, I never saw you kneed your clay once (which was very dirty at the end). When I clay, I work it almost the speed you do, but for alot longer. I constantly inspect it and kneed it before it gets too dirty. This will decrease marring and increase the working strength of the clay. After I clay antire panel (usually kneeding multiple times) I take a small sheet of celophane and glide it over the finish to magnify any missed areas and then I'll redo/finish. Try it next time and compare.
 
David Fermani said:
Nice car. Too bad you couldn't take any pics of it outside in sunlight. 1 thing I'd like to suggest to you as constructive criticizm is improving your clay technique. I couldn't 100% tell from your video but you wnet from the top of the left fender to the center of the hood to the right fender? And, I never saw you kneed your clay once (which was very dirty at the end). When I clay, I work it almost the speed you do, but for alot longer. I constantly inspect it and kneed it before it gets too dirty. This will decrease marring and increase the working strength of the clay. After I clay antire panel (usually kneeding multiple times) I take a small sheet of celophane and glide it over the finish to magnify any missed areas and then I'll redo/finish. Try it next time and compare.



The video was edited that way to make it easier to see what I was doing. The clay was also not kneaded for demonstration purposes to show how much contamination clay could pick up.
 
lt1_man said:
Nice I was looking forward to sunlight pictures but it still looks great under the lights.



-Brandon



Thanks. These 14 hour corrections don't usually finish in the sunlight. To be honest, I was so tired by the end, I was lucky to even get these pictures.
 
JBs said:
It looks like its a Pre-2001 Sport Package 528....



good job on the correction, looks good!



Thank you.



About the vehicle...



It's not a 528i, it's a V8 540i. I'm certain of that. However, I'm not certain about the year. May be 2000 or 1999.
 
Holden do you have a link to your explanation of your hand wax application method? Or can you explain it? Mainly looking for reasoning behind the technique. The actual application seems pretty straightforward.



I thought about trying it with some 476S but I'd imagine it would go down too thick and be miserable to remove. I have some M26 paste that is melted so perhaps I should give that a try.



TIA
 
ABQDetailer said:
I thought about trying it with some 476S but I'd imagine it would go down too thick and be miserable to remove. I have some M26 paste that is melted so perhaps I should give that a try.



TIA



Carnauba waxes buff off a lot easier than sealants do, so I don't imagine it being an issue for you. Just keep thin and even coverage.



ABQDetailer said:
Holden do you have a link to your explanation of your hand wax application method? Or can you explain it? Mainly looking for reasoning behind the technique. The actual application seems pretty straightforward.

TIA



I simply enjoy applying wax this way. I find it performs well. I don't recommend it for others, though. It's safer to use a foam applicator pad.
 
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