Anything new to combat Orange Peel

N

nate010753

New member
I was just wondering if there was anything out there besides wetsanding that will help get rid of orange peel? Anyone weekend warrior ever wetsanded before and care to share the experience. I have read the article over at goodmorningspeed I think was the site but just want the view of a non professional. thanks
 
As far as I know, the only way to take care of orange peel is to wetsand. I don't think they can make a product that levels out the clear coat?
 
Most fresh paint has some orange peel effect when its cured.



No painter can lay it on perfectly flat.



Usual procedure is de-nib it with 1200 wet sand paper then hit it with G3 (or similar) a wool pad and a rotary.





As you prolly guessed it aint for the beginner or the faint hearted.



Once youve got it flat, then drop to Diamond Cut or DACP with a foam pad and start to finish up the paint surface.
 
yeah I more or less new to the game and def wouldn't wouldn't feel to safe about the wetsanding. But maybe on my friends car. hmmmmmm
 
Its not all that bad, but it can be if your not careful.



Some tips, when you wet sand the clear coat, you will see a whitish milk like liquid form from the clear coat. This is good, if you start to see color, then your screwed b/c you just went through the clear coat. Take it slow, have a clean towel at hand and wipe down what you just wet sanded real quick to see your progress. If you only sanded very lightly, you should see spots of unsanded and sanded areas, this is good, keep on wet sanding until those non sanded spots go away and you are finished, your paint is nice and level. This will tell you in the long run how much and how long you have to move your hand until the paint is nice and level.



Caution, DO NOT do anything rougher than 2000 grit paper!!!!!!! Unless your paint is total garbage, there is no need for 1500 grit. Most paint jobs on cars today only need 2000-3000 grit paper to even everything out. 1500 is too rough and will cut to deep to quickly, plus harder to buff out the scratches. Start off with 3000 grit paper and see how that works for you, it is the safest, it is no rougher than a medium to fine cut compound.



After this I suggest a medium cut compound which breaks down. FI-II (fine cut) is nice, but it takes too damn long to buff everything out, and it still doesn't get all the left over scratches out.
 
Wet sanding is not what scares me, it's the fact that I need to use a compound and a polish to remove all of those scratches left by the sanding up front then I need to maintain the clear and remove swirls as I get more. That clear is thin, I have sanded through it on junk cars and it's not pretty, nor does it take alot of effort to go through it.



I rather live with less than ideal paint on an everyday car rather than risking cutting the clear all the way down to the point.



Chances are it WONT happen but I like the peace of mind knowing I have a good chunk of clear still on my car.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top