Anyone use bonnets on their PC LSP?

T

twopu

New member
I us mf to remove LSP for years but I'm hearing from several people that they love using a bonnet on their pc. Any thoughts? What type of bonnet would you use and what pad?
 
Any clean pad will do, and only use a mf bonnet. They are available from pretty much all vendors that carry mf towels and/or foam pads.



If you want to see what it will be like before buying, just use a mf towel. Place the towel on the car, then sit the pc right in the center of it, and turn it on. Be careful that you don't drop the towel on the ground though.
 
Heh heh, why do some people say *whatever* they say :nixweiss



I use MF bonnets to buff LSPs all the time. Both plush style (mainly for carnaubas) and suede style (mainly for sealants). I use them over cutting pads as I like a) the thickness, b) the firmness, and c) the way the cutting pads really hold onto the bonnets and thus keep them from slipping around ineffectually.



I do *not* really like using MF bonnets over wool pads, as the wool tends to compress too much for my taste and it can leave wool strands in the MF, which I sure wouldn't want touching my just LSPed paint.
 
I use the MF bonnets for LSPs all the time also. Never had a problem... for me it's just what I'm feeling like doing at hte time being.
 
do you think the results differ from buffing off by hand as opposed to using your pc? obviously its easier with pc but im curious if there is a pro con aside from difficulty.
 
twopu- The Cobra bonnets I have (older, might not be the same) aren't soft enough to use on *my* cars, but they work OK on vehicles I'm not that particular about. They appeared to leave slight micromarring on the Jag (soft ss paint) and I might be overy cautious.. I haven't tried the others you linked to. I wouldn't try to save money, I'd try to get the best; who wants to mar the paint at that last step of a detail?



VaSuperShine- I'd be hard-pressed to find any true, real-world differences that I can point to and say "there, see how it's better". But I find the motions of moving a PC/Cyclo over a car easier/more pleasant than the motions of removing product by hand (*especially* the Cyclo!) and I can't help but think there oughta be some advantage to having all those orbits-per-minute compared to what I do by hand. Maybe it burnishes the surface better, I dunno...



I started doing it with bonnets when I had shoulder problems that precluded doing it by hand; jobs that I simply couldn't do were a piece of cake by machine. After the shoulders were OK again, I kept doing it by machine as I simply *like* it that much better.
 
yeah i agree accume, alot of times i just have more unused mfs than i do pads or bonnets, the path of least resistance isnt a bad thing in our business, and removing sg can definitely be a pain without a machine so i think ill stock up on bonnets, thanks for your time and info.
 
I too am an MF bonnet user for removal. I remove hard to reach areas by hand and then use bonnets to remove the large horizontal and vertical areas. I find it leaves a glossier shine and is faster and less tiring than doing everything by hand.



Accumulator's absolutely correct in that using a polishing/cutting pad is best for bonnet removal. The softer finishing pads are too mushy. The pads will slip around and the bonnets won't have quite as much bite.



The only time I don't use bonnets for removal are for products that dust up a lot (SSR's, Prime, etc...) The pads just load up too fast and you have to switch out bonnets too often. It becomes counter-productive to waste so much time switching out bonnets. Anything requiring more than two bonnets and I remove by hand.
 
maecrispy said:
I I remove hard to reach areas by hand and then use bonnets to remove the large horizontal and vertical areas. .
Click to expand...



Here's a flip-side approach you might want to try: I do the initial removal by machine, taking note of the areas I can't access. When I'm finished I pull the bonnets off and use the unsoiled-areas (like where they went over the sides of the pad) to do the tight spots. Then I go over everything with a fresh MF.



It's sorta like cutting a lawn with a riding mower and doing the tight spots with a push mower (or a using a push mower and a string trimmer)- which one to do first :nixweiss
 
Accumulator said:
Here's a flip-side approach you might want to try: I do the initial removal by machine, taking note of the areas I can't access. When I'm finished I pull the bonnets off and use the unsoiled-areas (like where they went over the sides of the pad) to do the tight spots. Then I go over everything with a fresh MF.
Click to expand...



That could work. :)



I think the key is to develop a routine that works and then practice it until it becomes second nature. Otherwise, especially with some LSP's that go on so thin I can hardly see it, I'll always be wondering 'did I go over that spot?' Then I'll end up going over some spots twice and missing others.
 
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