Anyone use a DA for restoring headlights?

ShakingHorizons

ShakingHorizons

New member
I have been doing a LOT of headlight restorations lately and am just using a wool pad and a drill. I am now in the market to purchase a machine that can accept 1" pads to get in to the tight corners that as of now, I have been doing by hand. Obviously I have been using a rotary method, but didn`t know if going with a DA would be more effective or if I should stick with the tried and true method for me.

Thoughts/Suggestions?
 
I say tried and true, unless the results you have now is missing something... I use and used my 3401 (with tons of masking tape) and 2" pneumatic orbital before, they work well, and I got pretty satisfying results.

I feel the trick is in masking if you cant remove the headlight and bench restore it.
 
I mostly use my 3" gg now and it gets majority pretty good but not as good as a rotary buffer and I generally do it when I`ve been doing the paint correction. So when I buff the paint I do the lights to and then when I polish or wax I do the same


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My standard headlight correction method is sanding with a GG3, then rotary wool and finish with the GG3 and foam.
 
I do, using 4" LC pads on an old PC-DA, using M105 on a yellow or green pad followed by M205 on a white pad. Does NOT "clean"/polish really hazed lenses that should be wet sanded (but I do not do that!). I seal with Collinite 885 Fleetwax (476S twin) or 925 Fiberglass wax (845 Insulator Wax twin).
Most turn out ALOT better than they were, but definitely not showroom new. This last about 6-9 months, depending on how often the vehicle is driven and where. Unpaved or gravel back roads/trails are definitely "harder" (more abrasive) on headlights, as are bug guts from driving near lakes and rivers in the spring and summer (common in the Upper Midwest of Wisconsin).
I would also tell you to tape around the adjacent/surrounding sheet metal edges and/or bumper, as excessive pressure with a compound and harder foam pad can abrade (IE, scratch or swirl or worse, burn through) rather easily, especially softer bumper materials. Five minutes of time and 50 cents worth of painter`s tape is cheap insurance, even if it`s your own DD vehicle. Just saying...............
Oh yah, watch out for those headlight aiming pins (or are they aids in removal of the lens from plastic molds during manufacturing???) that look like small plastic spikes protruding from some headlight lenses. They can really rip up foam pads. (I know; common sense, Captain Obvious!!)
 
I always use my big Makita 9227C with an extension and pads in the 3" range and smaller if needed..

Perhaps I`m just lucky but I have never seen a lot of "crevices" etc., that needed hand polishing; the smaller foam pads get into every place I have ever needed..

Certainly, a random orbital machine will be able to do this but it will take longer, because of not as much pad rotation - but it can be done...

And if they are really badly UV and age wrecked, nothing will work better than wet block sanding all that off first, getting it down to the 2k-3k final wet sanding, and then bringing the clarity all back with foam wool, then foam pads...

I believe is it Car Pro or someone makes a coating for plastic lenses now that is supposed to have UV protection as well??
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
I always use my big Makita 9227C with an extension and pads in the 3" range and smaller if needed..

Perhaps I`m just lucky but I have never seen a lot of "crevices" etc., that needed hand polishing; the smaller foam pads get into every place I have ever needed..

Certainly, a random orbital machine will be able to do this but it will take longer, because of not as much pad rotation - but it can be done...

And if they are really badly UV and age wrecked, nothing will work better than wet block sanding all that off first, getting it down to the 2k-3k final wet sanding, and then bringing the clarity all back with foam wool, then foam pads...

I believe is it Car Pro or someone makes a coating for plastic lenses now that is supposed to have UV protection as well??
Dan F
Click to expand...

This is an example of the "crevice" I speak of (`08 Lexus ISF)

195360d1293908756-are-the-new-2011-is-f-headlights-darker-than-the-08-s-dscn6806.jpg


There was barely enough room for me to get my finger in between the areas where the bumper sticks out from the headlight.
 
I use my PC and 3"-3.5" pads. I do plan on getting the rotary adapter along with 1" BP and Pads though and combine that with either my PC or buy a GG 3" polisher.
 
ShakingHorizons said:
Here are a couple examples of my work -








Click to expand...

ShakingHorizons -
Ok, I see now the sharp pointy place on the Lexus - thank you !
Only the tiniest 1" pad might get close to that area, but you had better tape really good and thick around it if you are going to use a machine in there..

You headlight work is outstanding !!! and you are using a drill !!! Just perfect work and innovation, mi Amigo !!!
Thanks for sharing -
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
ShakingHorizons -
Ok, I see now the sharp pointy place on the Lexus - thank you !
Only the tiniest 1" pad might get close to that area, but you had better tape really good and thick around it if you are going to use a machine in there..

You headlight work is outstanding !!! and you are using a drill !!! Just perfect work and innovation, mi Amigo !!!
Thanks for sharing -
Dan F
Click to expand...


Thanks Dan. I started detailing by hand - and did so for about 15 years. I then joined this forum, and along with your help, I have slowly incorporated machines in to my work. I still try to stay basic, and my clients appreciate my attention to detail.

The MDX is my personal vehicle (purchased it with the headlights like that), but the other car was a client and she literally wept when she saw the transformation. THAT is why I love this hobby.
 
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2000 grit wet sand, 105, 205 on the dual action polisher. Then sealant of coarse



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