Anyone try a Carnauba Topper on top of a Topper?
- Thread starter Bioman
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tangix2001
New member
I personnally think people get carried away with I'll top this product with that and so on. I can understand topping a sealant with a carnauba to get a deeper or wetter look but since both products you listed are considered good carnauba lsp's I see no sense in topping one with the other. Just choose one would be my suggestion.
tripper_111
New member
The top wax should be exactly that, the top. Mixing media with other waxes (especially different formulas or inferior waxes) will run the risk of you hampering the ultra sharp resolution that only a fine carnauba is capable of achieving. You can still get a shine, but the clarity and depth potential is what you really want from a carnauba, which could be jeapordized by mixing different wax formulas. You should only top a carnauba with something relatively neutral in composition, such as a QD.
You should think of topping, if that is what you want, by compounding your efforts with more layers (yes, layers!!!!) at different intervals...give yourself at least a week in between deposits, of the same wax.
I've followed this methodology, and at the risk of not sounding humble, I have not been disappointed in my waxed finishes.
You should think of topping, if that is what you want, by compounding your efforts with more layers (yes, layers!!!!) at different intervals...give yourself at least a week in between deposits, of the same wax.
I've followed this methodology, and at the risk of not sounding humble, I have not been disappointed in my waxed finishes.
imported_liam
New member
pinnicle seems to think their souveran can be layer'd to a certain extent - only while giving the last coat to cure (24hours...) i'm wacking on another coat as we speak... half the fun is the exprimentation 
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Layering:
By applying another product on top of one that has already cross-linked you can increase its density (up to a point) the thin film of product that's applied isn't really another layer. Two to four cross-linked (cured) applications are usually considered optimum
One thing that will negate the applied product density is lack of clarity, the base coat (that contains the vehicleâ€â„¢s colour) is covered / protected by a clear coat of urethane paint, which as well as providing protection is clear to enable the paint colour to show through and provide the colour with depth. Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be optically clear (transparent) otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted
Solvents provide a lubricant and aid the adherence process by working their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the previous `layer' softening it, providing each subsequent applications carrying agent (solvent, oils silicones or emulsion) are not so concentrated that they degrade or remove (as in the case of a cleaner wax) what has been previously applied. This is also applicable if you apply a â€Ëœtwo level topperâ€â„¢
JonM
By applying another product on top of one that has already cross-linked you can increase its density (up to a point) the thin film of product that's applied isn't really another layer. Two to four cross-linked (cured) applications are usually considered optimum
One thing that will negate the applied product density is lack of clarity, the base coat (that contains the vehicleâ€â„¢s colour) is covered / protected by a clear coat of urethane paint, which as well as providing protection is clear to enable the paint colour to show through and provide the colour with depth. Any product applied on top of the clear coat needs to be optically clear (transparent) otherwise both the paint colour and its depth of shine will be muted
Solvents provide a lubricant and aid the adherence process by working their way into the microscopic gaps and valleys of the previous `layer' softening it, providing each subsequent applications carrying agent (solvent, oils silicones or emulsion) are not so concentrated that they degrade or remove (as in the case of a cleaner wax) what has been previously applied. This is also applicable if you apply a â€Ëœtwo level topperâ€â„¢
JonM
Accumulator
Well-known member
Two possibly relevent examples of "layering different waxes":
I did my wife's A8 with #80. Had that "just polished, Meg's trade secret oils" look. I applied Pinnacle Creme Glaze (a now-discontinued sorta-AIO-type product), which cleaned off the oils (exposing some marring
) and gave a different look, a "synthetic-sealant" look. I topped with #16 and it looked like a sealant with a carnauba topper- there was a synergy, with both products contributing to the look. I topped again a few weeks later with Collinite 476S and now it just looks like Collinite. You can no longer tell the other products are on there. FWIW I saw no evidence that the 476S "cleaned the others off"; it just covered them up.
Last waxing of the Volvo- I had polished with 1Z metallic (Pro version, with just a little "wax"). I went over it with Collinite and it looked a little different, less like the "freshly polished with MP" and more like a *very* nice example of 476S over bare paint- no surprise there. I topped the 476S with Souveran and it looked better. Not "OMG-better", but you could sure tell a difference, more than I expected.
Seems that some products work hand-in-hand but others just give you the "last product applied" look.
I did my wife's A8 with #80. Had that "just polished, Meg's trade secret oils" look. I applied Pinnacle Creme Glaze (a now-discontinued sorta-AIO-type product), which cleaned off the oils (exposing some marring
) and gave a different look, a "synthetic-sealant" look. I topped with #16 and it looked like a sealant with a carnauba topper- there was a synergy, with both products contributing to the look. I topped again a few weeks later with Collinite 476S and now it just looks like Collinite. You can no longer tell the other products are on there. FWIW I saw no evidence that the 476S "cleaned the others off"; it just covered them up.Last waxing of the Volvo- I had polished with 1Z metallic (Pro version, with just a little "wax"). I went over it with Collinite and it looked a little different, less like the "freshly polished with MP" and more like a *very* nice example of 476S over bare paint- no surprise there. I topped the 476S with Souveran and it looked better. Not "OMG-better", but you could sure tell a difference, more than I expected.
Seems that some products work hand-in-hand but others just give you the "last product applied" look.