SSizzlin'
New member
Does one have more cleaning ability than the other? Will one dry out faster? Cost isn't an issue, I want the safest product with the best cleaning ability.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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steelwind101 said:Hi,
If cost is not an issue then buy the LM.
The LM does not stay wet for long, im not sure why you are worried about it though?
You work a small say 6" section at a time or take a seat bolster and work on half of it. Apply, aggitate and wipe/blot.
If you are getting masses or dirt cleaned out or the leather looks shiney still then reapply.
You will be best with a cleaner that generates a foam action, it will clean better. You do not want to spray down an entire chair then aggitate!
The CG's stuff is almost as thin as a water, its similar to a interior APC mix (think FKs interior QD at 8:1).
Personally, if it were me choosing i would do this:
Purchase Wolfgang Leather Cleaner, use this to cleaner the chairs the first time. Its a quality product that generates a little foaming action and cleans very well with out any "dry staining".
Then get some LM's to maintain the leather when ever you re apply your protector.
EG: I tend to do a full leather clean with dedicated cleaner then protect every 3 months. I then go in every week with a wet cloth and wipe down the leather.
By doing this wipe down with a wet cloth i do two things: Gently remove build up and grime on the seats AND condition the protected leather with water (the only conditioner it needs).
Rinse the cloth often, dont saturate....keep your brain on the job!
Dont use a cloth thats too intense, you can actually damage the plastic layer on the leather on a microscopic level. I have a very soft worn fluffy MF.
Geoff
steelwind101 said:Hi,
If cost is not an issue then buy the LM.
The LM does not stay wet for long, im not sure why you are worried about it though?
You work a small say 6" section at a time or take a seat bolster and work on half of it. Apply, aggitate and wipe/blot.
If you are getting masses or dirt cleaned out or the leather looks shiney still then reapply.
You will be best with a cleaner that generates a foam action, it will clean better. You do not want to spray down an entire chair then aggitate!
The CG's stuff is almost as thin as a water, its similar to a interior APC mix (think FKs interior QD at 8:1).
Personally, if it were me choosing i would do this:
Purchase Wolfgang Leather Cleaner, use this to cleaner the chairs the first time. Its a quality product that generates a little foaming action and cleans very well with out any "dry staining".
Then get some LM's to maintain the leather when ever you re apply your protector.
EG: I tend to do a full leather clean with dedicated cleaner then protect every 3 months. I then go in every week with a wet cloth and wipe down the leather.
By doing this wipe down with a wet cloth i do two things: Gently remove build up and grime on the seats AND condition the protected leather with water (the only conditioner it needs).
Rinse the cloth often, dont saturate....keep your brain on the job!
Dont use a cloth thats too intense, you can actually damage the plastic layer on the leather on a microscopic level. I have a very soft worn fluffy MF.
Geoff
vtec92civic said:can't wait to try my CG stuff. Do you guys dilute the cleaner at all or?
I have had mine for a couple weeks, just haven't busted it out yet but my leather could use a tiny bit of cleaning.
DitchTehFish said:Thanks Geoff! :2thumbs:
However, I got some "dripping stains". Maybe this is common with all leather cleaners?
Roger Koh said:===
“Dripping stains� is a sign of cleaning solution having a too high alkaline pH value.
High alkalinity solutions cause the finish to swell that dislodge the soiling, thus causing a wedging effect against the leather finish.
Brightening effect and dripping stains are the same symptom of over alkaline exposure that causes the slow deterioration of the leather finish.
When this stains or brightness is not neutralized with a pH 2.0 Leather Acidifier; you will notice that the next cleaning; the leather finish may feel “tacky� when damp.
Besides you will feel that especially the perforated panels’ leathers will be stiffer as the fatliquors is leach out from high alkaline exposure.
Try out some leather-safe system products; it will never give you the “dripping stains� or “brightness�.
Ask for samples for specific problem; and test it out!
For extreme soiling condition; a pH 7.7 Leather Prep is “paint-on�; sticky as honey to dwell.
Next is to spray a leather-safe pH 3.8 cleaner and agitate with horsehair brush; and see how it foams up!
Then it’s follows with a pH 3.0 leather-safe rinse.
A leather-safe system always bring the original rich color tone back as the leather finish is tighten-up and chemistry integrity strengthen with an acidic rinse.
After all, a healthy leather "structure" including its "finish" when read with a pH meter should always be mildly acidic - just like our skin!
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
DitchTehFish said:Thanks!
According to chemical guys, their leather cleaner is pH balanced.