Antique 1984 Porsche 911

[Alexshimshimhae]

 

[SuperBee364]

Wait a second! Since when does a car made in my Junior year of High School qualify as an antique????



Cool car man... more pics are needed!

 

[Accumulator]

Wait a second! Since when does a car made in my Junior year of High School qualify as an antique????

Jr. year of High School...you young kids...I still have trouble accepting that classic muscle cars are "antiques"!



Alexshimshimhae- So that's the car, huh? I'd get some rust converter on the obvious rust and apply some touchup paint. (Yeah, yeah...I know, but that'd be better than nothing.)



I'd hit the nasty exterior plastic with Hi-Temp Heavy Cut. Be a little careful what you choose for that since some products will leave terrible white staining.



I'm digging those BBS wheels myself...

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

Just got home sigh exhausted... 8 hrs and still not done



The working shots I'm post after a hour shower and dinner

 

[David Fermani]

Perfect car to throw a small block Chevy 350 in! I'd definately go with wool and M105(rotary) or even the Optimum spray compound. You'd get great results with Optimum for sure as it works alot longer and has SMAT abrasives too. That wing is going to soak up a gallon of protectant too.

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

OK so he we go.

First and foremost, I would like to personally thank Accumulator and David Fermani for your guidance with this particular job. As always you guys were great as well as everyone else who helped out with suggestions on my other thread.

(Barry, I really wish you were nearby rofl cause this car would definitely benefit from your expertise)

So you want to talk about Karma? Family friend came to own this Porsche...it was GIVEN to him.

Now the 1985 Porsche 911 for me was the birth of what was to be my personal car of choice (should I ever be able to afford it)

This particular model was the 911 Carrera Targa Top

For a quarter century car, I have to say, it could be worse.



I would like any critiques suggestions and tips because even after 8 hours, I still have to go back and get more work done.

The weather today was lows of 28 and highs of 35(which held for umm..2 hours?) if it weren't for the black paint and the sun, I would probably be in more trouble. I suspect that when the sun went down, the temperatures messed with the polishes so I stopped my work.



So here are some more before pictures



To add to my umm rough morning, I forgot all my brushes in the garage...so had to improvise....

Any idea what to do about these seats? He was told it'd cost around $1,000 to re-upholster, but if anyone knows anywhere to get replacement seats or someone who can work on these seats in the NY tri-state area let me know?

Figure damp ONR cloth with 303? but looking to get leatherique or leathermasters? any thoughts?

I've seen worse but I took care of everything with TAW

So these are some of the other befores

Took the rear wing/spoiler off. Could not for the life of me figure out what that spill pattern was that wouldn't wash or clay off... thank goodness the polish wisked it right off.

More swirls yaayyyy -_-

man were they a PITA to clean =[ you can have them~!! (if only I didn't have to clean them) Painstakenly done by soft bristle tooth brush and P21S Wheel gel. Got some serious freezer burn on my knuckles from this....

GRIND TIME

Took the liberty of finally testing out the optimum hyper polish spray...smells like the banana flavor from those cheap 'fruit' hard candies that you get from the 25cent candy machine...it seems to be somewhat comparable to the PO85RD in terms of cut and oiliness; to be fair, I no longer remember to be quite honest my hands were numb and the sun was messing with me (as was temps)



Taped up and ready to go.

50/50 done with LC CCS black with Menzerna PO85RD

Right side done with Hyper Polish spray on LC CCS Black pad

Both left RIDS and a bunch of the more stubborn swirls...but today in all has been an odd day in terms of product performance...more on that later

Didn't want to go overly aggressive because I believe it was single stage paint (but I could've sworn I saw spots of cracking clear?) but since the black pad wasn't doing it--tried said products with orange pad and then to black to no avail. eventually broke out the M105 and LC CCS orange combo then Black CCS with PO85RD



more swirls...

After taw->ONR->clay->m105->PO85RD Because the spoiler has vents I thought it was pertinent to get the inside area too--and if you look through the slots--man does it make a difference.

Really wish I had my brushes......sigh did this with soft bristle toothbrushes... -_-

TAW, 303, Megs Hyper Dressing 4:1

Before

Same spot after m105 and PO85RD

With the sun going down, it seemed as though the compound/polish were almost instantly freezing on the panels (28 degrees PLUS freezing wind at this point) so desperately raced to finish but it's a good thing I'm going back next week to finish.



Not sure what to call this part; I guess I'll call it the pillar right behind the targa top. We actually thought it was supposed to be Matte...umm..out of curiosity decided to do a test spot after i finished the car with the M105 figuring what the hell...to my surprise....(if it's SUPPOSED to be matte umm...sorry I just ruined it)

How I left the car

In order to keep the hose from freezing over, had to leave the hose on mist...made myself a mini ice forest xD

Question, the targa top seems to be some kind of leather...but doubt that it's ACTUALLY leather...any ideas as to how to handle that? (cleaning protecting etc)



Again please critique and leave suggestions, I'm going back and I could use some help

Also, the trim, like hte top of the bumper, the rubber nubs/blocks that are on top of the bumper--what should I do about them? Wasn't sure about using polish because I thought it would stain...toothbrush/taw and 303? but I think I want to see about getting some kind of shine....would polishing it be a good idea? not quite sure what it is...seems kind of like rubber but on then again it could be a textured rubber/plastic? I don't know....



Thanks all

 

[JohnKleven]

Perfect car to throw a small block Chevy 350 in! I'd definately go with wool and M105(rotary) or even the Optimum spray compound. You'd get great results with Optimum for sure as it works alot longer and has SMAT abrasives too. That wing is going to soak up a gallon of protectant too.

OK, I think I just threw up in my mouth. David, I think you just said you would get rid of that beautiful well balanced, extremely durable, reliable, lightweight, dry sump 3.2 flat six for a pushrod, underpowered, heavy, archaic, Chevy 350? I know it's a targa, but still that is still an extremely well built German sports car.

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

yea, i'm looking to order some extra pads some rust converter and some hi-temp heavy cut



any idea if any product will work when the surface temp of car hits 70 degrees? (FK1000P good idea?)

wanna put my order in before DI sale ends

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

lol somewhere in here I saw some kind of debate starting xD rofl it's a good thing I didn't say "this is arguably the best car ever made" rofl

 

[David Fermani]

OK, I think I just threw up in my mouth. David, I think you just said you would get rid of that beautiful well balanced, extremely durable, reliable, lightweight, dry sump 3.2 flat six for a pushrod, underpowered, heavy, archaic, Chevy 350? I know it's a targa, but still that is still an extremely well built German sports car.

Heck yeah!! It's the only way to get real performance out one of those old school 911's. I did one of these back in the 90's: Renegade Hybrids Nothing like a 450hp engine sitting over the rear wheels of a 2500lb car. The car was a blast. Yeah, Porsche guys thought I was the devil, but everyone else thought it was cool.

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

how do you guys feel about Leatherique rejuvenator oil and leatherique prestine clean?

leather masters?

figure whichever leather cleaning/conditioning protection combo I can come up, I could use on the Porsche but also on my own family cars

 

[JohnKleven]

Leatherique is amazing, but won't do much for those seats. I'd throw those things away and throw in a set of Recaro SE seats.



David, anyone can build a car that goes fast in a straight line, but Porsches are all about the corners, the brakes, and the hours and hours of racing running at redline. Even that 1984 is surprisingly quick when driven right. Not 450 horsepower quick, but change the sways, torsion bars, and slap on a set of porterfields and you're ready to race.

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

I was thinking using it for the leather at the base of the shifter



I was thinking the same thing about the seats but if possible I think I want to try to keep the car authentically original in terms of looks but very well might just ask him to get the Recaros

 

[Accumulator]

Again please critique and leave suggestions, I'm going back and I could use some help

Also, the trim, like hte top of the bumper, the rubber nubs/blocks that are on top of the bumper--what should I do about them? Wasn't sure about using polish because I thought it would stain...toothbrush/taw and 303? but I think I want to see about getting some kind of shine....would polishing it be a good idea? not quite sure what it is...seems kind of like rubber but on then again it could be a textured rubber/plastic? I don't know....

That's the kind of exterior plastic I use Hi-Temp Heavy Cut (AKA "357") on. It's never stained for me but of course YMMV and I do *NOT* let it dry but rather buff it off while still a little wet. I use that to cut the oxidation/etc. and then try KAIO.



OR...try Griot's Rubber Prep, a true miracle product that I think everyone should have on the shelf.



The Ultima Trim Sealant is great stuff, but I'd probably just use Collinite 845. For that matter, I'd probably do the paint with Collinite too (476S or 915)), rather than FK1000P.



You're making great progress, wish I knew more about those cars so I could offer better/more advice (the Targa top, etc. :nixweiss ).



Oh, and yeah..don't waste time on those seats if replacement/reupholstering is a feasible option.

 

[SuperBee364]

To add to Accumulator's suggestion of staying away from 1000P (which is a sealant. don't let the "synthetic paste wax" name fool you.. 1000P is 100% sealant)... IMO, I think you should stick with a good carnauba. Never have been a fan of sealants on single stage paints. You might also want to think about using M7 before the wax. It's cheap, it looks phenomenal on SS paints, *but* it can be a total PITA on SS paints. Use just a *small* amount, and rub it into the paint. You should use such a small amount that there's no residue left over at all. If you use too much.... well, it can make your day long and hard. But properly applied, M7 is stunning on SS paints. On top of that I'd use a *really* good carnauba. M16 would be really good, but to get the best results... I'd use Vintage. And I happen to know a guy that has some. PM me if you'd like enough to do that car. I also happen to have Hi-Temp 357 Magnum, too. I can send some of that along, as well. Vintage can be used on *every* external part of the vehicle: paint, trim, rubber, it doesn't matter... it will do a great job on it. Only problem with the Vintage and the M7 is you do need to use it in warmer temps. I'd think around 65 degrees F would be the minimum. In a garage under halogen lights at close range would probably work.



P.S. No, I'm not giving out samples of Vintage to everyone, so please don't overwhelm me with requests for Vintage.

 

[Barry Theal]

Can I get a sample Supe? lol I agree I always liked number 7 on single stage as well.

 

[Barry Theal]

Nice work alex. lol I feel old with you alling that an antique!:becky:

 

[Alexshimshimhae]

Lol I'm not calling you old people! Lol I believe NYS when a car is 25 years old you can very it licensed to be considered antique



But thanks a ton guys! I'm going to be spending a lot more time on this car.



For starters I don't like how most of the car turned out when u jumped from 105 to the PO so think I'm going to hit it with 205 and then finish it with PO to see how that looks. Super I will def msg you

 

[Barry Theal]

BRing it to my shop we can gut that darn thing!!! Would love to have done this ride.

 

[SuperBee364]

Lol I'm not calling you old people! Lol I believe NYS when a car is 25 years old you can very it licensed to be considered antique



But thanks a ton guys! I'm going to be spending a lot more time on this car.



For starters I don't like how most of the car turned out when u jumped from 105 to the PO so think I'm going to hit it with 205 and then finish it with PO to see how that looks. Super I will def msg you

Not intending to start an argument here, guys, but... Lot's of guys use PO85RD on softer paints, but honestly I'm not a fan. Don't get me wrong, I *love* 85RD a ton, but only on harder paints... Another process you might want to consider: 105, then 205, then a non-ceramiclear rated polish like UltraFina (or whatever 3M is calling part number 6068 these days), Menzerna Final Polish, or the like. If you're getting good results with 85RD, then that's great.. stick with it. But if it's not leaving a *really* good finish, you might consider changing your final polish to something a bit more suited toward softer paints. I have yet to see a paint so soft that UF, MFP or MFPII won't finish down incredibly well on, and they're all extremely easy to use. The only drawback to UF is that it does sling a lot. Luckily, it's very easy to remove the sling. When 85RD is used on an appropriate paint, there's nothing that will finish down better. But if it's not giving you the results you want, you might consider some of these alternatives.



I've had great success by jumping from 105 to UltraFina (two applications) on butter-soft paint.