Another new kid on the block with questions

[fishfeet]

So I just got my PC Wolfgang kit yesterday and have already done a test on half of my trunk.

My car is a 1996 BMW 328is, silver. There are many swirls and some scratches that are visible under certain lights. A few scratches I can feel with my nail, but it does not catch... not sure if those will ever be repairable with the PC.



Anyway, I used the Total Swirl remover with a 5.5 Orange pad. I made 3 passes.

The swirling is certainly reduced compared to the other half of the trunk which is currently untouched, however, it is far from where I would like it.



What would be recommended to try next?

A yellow pad? 4" pads (orange or yellow)?

A more aggressive polish? SIP or Megs 105?





I followed up the test panel with the Finishing Glaze and a 5.5 white pad and then the DGPS3.

Since I want to try more to repair this panel, what should I do, if anything, before going to polish again? Should I use a paint cleaner? Or can I just dive right back in with polishing?





I am interested to see how this Wolfgang kit will work on newer paints (will soon be working on a 2008 G35, black. Excited about that one)









If I get something like Megs 105, should I follow it up with a pass using the TSR3 (or something else?)





I was not able to get my point and shoot camera to take pictures of the swirling, however, I was able to capture it in video mode. I'll see if I can get some captures from that video, or just post the video tomorrow.







Thanks for the help!

 

[Accumulator]

So I just got my PC Wolfgang kit yesterday and have already done a test on half of my trunk.

My car is a 1996 BMW 328is, silver. There are many swirls and some scratches that are visible under certain lights. A few scratches I can feel with my nail, but it does not catch... not sure if those will ever be repairable with the PC...

Welcome to Autopia! I have a '97 M3 (bought in, uhm....very used condition) and I'll assume your paint is similar to mine, namely *HARD*.

Anyway, I used the Total Swirl remover with a 5.5 Orange pad. I made 3 passes.

The swirling is certainly reduced compared to the other half of the trunk which is currently untouched, however, it is far from where I would like it.

What would be recommended to try next?

A yellow pad? 4" pads (orange or yellow)?

A more aggressive polish? SIP or Megs 105?.

I'd go with the yellow or orange 4" pad and the M105. I just tried M105 for the first time (and on my M3 too) and it's the best stuff I've tried this side of rotary/harsh pad/3M Extra Cut. I was astounded by how much I liked it, and I'm pretty hard to impress



You might need to do an intermediate step after the M105 before the Finishing Glaze, I suspect the Total Swirl Remover might be a good way to go but I've never tried it.



Don't overdo things shooting for perfection! I got all Autopian on mine and kept going until I had 99% of the marring out...and now I have a few panels that need repainted (didn't go through the clear or anything like that, but I still went too far).

Since I want to try more to repair this panel, what should I do, if anything, before going to polish again? Should I use a paint cleaner? Or can I just dive right back in with polishing?

Just use the M105. It'll cut through anything on the panel with zero problems.

If I get something like Megs 105, should I follow it up with a pass using the TSR3 (or something else?)

See what you think after using the M105, and consider using it with an orange pad. It finishes out pretty well (esp. for such an aggressive product) on the hard clear.

 

[fishfeet]

Hey man, thanks for the welcome and the reply.



I am actually considering selling the 328 and picking up an 99 Estoril/Dove M3 (favorite color)





I was not sure how hard my paint was before my first test panel... and I still am not certain. I just know that I used the most aggressive setup available to me right now and it did a good job at getting out about 75% of the swirls.



What would be the difference between a 4" orange and a 5.5" yellow in terms of how aggressive it is? Would a 4" yellow perhaps be too much along, esp with some M105?



I am hoping that I can use the M105 followed by TSR3 and then the Finishing Glaze without using another and/or different step in the middle. I don't want to completely break the bank.



I am not trying to get perfection, but I didn't spend all this money to still have that many swirls that should be able be removed. This car is 13 years old so I know perfection isn't going to happen easily. I am also thinking I am going to confine my work to the trunk lid for now so I can figure out how to do things properly... get the right steps in place before doing the whole car. And if I screw it all up then all I have to paint is the trunk lid....







One other question: I did notice in a few places where the clear was apparently gone... I'll post pictures if I can. This was seen on a vertical portion of the trunk lid. I assume I would avoid polishing this particular area and any others I may find.

I know there are a few other small locations near some window trim where the car was previously repainted that clear seems to be gone.







Thanks again for your help.

 

[fishfeet]

Pictures.



Before:

After: (3 passes TSR3 w/ 5.5 Orange, 1 pass Finishing Glaze w/ 5.5 white, & DGPS3)

Video:

YouTube - Porter Cable 7424 - BMW 328is test panel



Any advice?

 

[Accumulator]

..

What would be the difference between a 4" orange and a 5.5" yellow in terms of how aggressive it is? Would a 4" yellow perhaps be too much along, esp with some M105?

I *think* the 4" orange would be both more aggressive and better finishing, but I was using the 4" yellow on mine and it wasn't too aggressive IMO. I dunno...I just never do very well with pads 5" or larger on the PC. They work OK on the Flex 3401 but it's a very different machine IME.

I am hoping that I can use the M105 followed by TSR3 and then the Finishing Glaze without using another and/or different step in the middle. I don't want to completely break the bank.

The M105 finishes out pretty well on this (hard) clear so you might not need too much of a follow-up.

One other question: I did notice in a few places where the clear was apparently gone... I'll post pictures if I can. This was seen on a vertical portion of the trunk lid. I assume I would avoid polishing this particular area and any others I may find.

I know there are a few other small locations near some window trim where the car was previously repainted that clear seems to be gone.

I wonder if the clear is really *gone* or just very thin :think: On mine, the clear seems to have been unevely applied (at the factory) and where I've overthinned it I was kinda surprised because the areas next to it, which I treated identically, seem OK :nixweiss



See if you can get a pic that shows what you're talking about.



The pics you posted show good improvement. I'll be an Autopian Heretic again and suggest that you say "good enough" rather than try get things a whole lot better. IT's all a matter of what *you* are gonna think when you consider the condition of *your* car.



Some people won't settle for that level of correction, but I'd balance any further improvement against the time/effort involved and the risk of overdoing it and precipitating paintwork. That's always a tough call on older/used vehicles and I still haven't decided if I was dumb to take the risks I did on mine...I probably wouldn't have been satisfied with the residual marring and the need to repaint a few areas really only bugs me (in this case) because I'm considering selling the vehicle and the repainting will be more money down the drain.



FWIW, I've left a lot of flaws on my other cars because I don't want to risk overthinning the clear. And it's not like they look bad or anything; I doubt that anybody but me even notices the flaws in real life and even if they do, well, I only care about how *I* feel about the vehicles' appearance.

 

[fishfeet]

Yeah, I may just decide to say "good enough" but I really want to try and see if I can get those remaining scratches out with one extra step. If that doesn't work then I'll call it quits and move on and do the entire car as I did on the test panel.



Those after pictures show a very small area where there are some scratches remaining. I think the video does a better job of showing what is still left on the "after" side as a whole. However, it was a pretty big difference, IMO and I will probably be happy if the whole car shows that kind of improvement.

 

[Accumulator]

fishfeet- The marring does look a lot more obvious in the video, but remember that IRL people don't inspect your paint under incandescent lights very often (unless you know people like me ).



I do think the M105 would clear it up, but I'm serious about being careful you don't overthin the clearcoat.

 

[fishfeet]

This is the area I see where the clear is gone.



Confirm?

 

[Accumulator]

This is the area I see where the clear is gone.



Confirm?

Yikes, it does look that way. Polish that area *very* gently and see if you get pigment transfer onto the pads.



Other than looking bad, it might not be that big an issue if you keep it waxed/sealed, but if it were mine I'd get that area repainted.

 

[fishfeet]

I'm not sure I can invest in a repaint on this car as it has mechanical needs first.

I never noticed this spot until I got really up close on the paint in that area.



Honestly, I hope to sell this car for whatever I can and get something new(er).

I have my eye on a 99 Estoril M3, but I might consider other options, just not sure what.

Just bought the wife a 2009 CR-V.







I appreciate your help though. I'll make sure I do not polish in that area and instead just apply some sealant.