alternatives to klasse aio/sg

I

imported_grease

New member
looking for alternatives to klasse aio / sg that are easier to work with.

an AIO that is chemical like klasse and a sealant thats as durable as SG



any suggestions





also, i layed sg + 476s for my winter ride.

will the durability be any less/more then either sg or 476s by itself? i know some people feel the all layers of protection are only as durable as the least durable layer
 
The Jeffs Werkstadtt line is very easy to work with. Prime (or Prime Strong) is your cleaner/sealant combo. Top with Acrylic Jett Trigger or Carnuba Jett Trigger (your choice look) rather than SG. In my experience, it's very durable, but I can't compare it to klasse as I've not used it.
 
I went from the Klasse twins for 4 years to Werkstatt's Prime Acrylic and Acrylic Jett Trigger and will never look back. Although I never had any trouble with AIO or SG application or removal the AJT is as easy product can possibly be to use. I have only had it on for 2 months and don't expect it to last as long as SG but don't know. I highly recommend Werkstatts as a nobrainer substitue for AIO/SG.
 
Autoglym SRP and EGP (both acrylic even!). I find the SRP VERY easy to work with. The EGP less so, but if you can let it fully dry (inside a garage) it removes pretty easily.

Haven't tried Werkstatt.
 
grease said:
looking for alternatives to klasse aio / sg that are easier to work with.

an AIO that is chemical like klasse and a sealant thats as durable as SG



any suggestions
Click to expand...



As far as replacements for the klasse line, I did the same search recently as well, because sg is just such a pain to work with. I do find AIO to be a great product though, so I decided to retain AIO for paint cleaning/prep (and many other uses). I have switched to Chemical Guys F-Seal sealant and could not be happier. I have not tried m-seal although I hear it's also a great product. The difference being the fseal having slightly better optics and slightly easier application/removal, and mseal having slightly better durability (according to CG).

- Comparing the ease of removal is not even fair...the fseal comes off like the easiest of carnaubas, I'm talking zero effort and a soft mf even, even if you put it on thick (which I tried as an experiment on a lexus I did a few weeks ago - still came off with no effort aside from a few spots that came off easier than the easiest SG spot LOL).

- I've found without a doubt the look of the fseal is superior to sg..a lot more depth and just visually superior (I've done the same cars with both products and there is no mistaking the improvement with fseal visually).

- 10 minute dry time and 20 minute cure time on fseal vs what a 12 hour cure time for sg?

-the last factor in comparing these two is durability, and it's a big one. In all honesty I don't have enough months under my belt with f-seal to give an accurate statement. I've had it on one car for 2 months now and it's still beading incredibly tightly as of yesterday when it rained, I'd say 4 washes since I applied it. That car is garaged though, and I plan to do a similar back to back test of the fseal on my truck which is outside 24/7, once the current application of SG is gone, to compare.

-the mint smell is good too :LOLOL



Wow, this is a novel, hope this helps!
 
grease said:
also, i layed sg + 476s for my winter ride.

will the durability be any less/more then either sg or 476s by itself? i know some people feel the all layers of protection are only as durable as the least durable layer
Click to expand...



I believe that the durability will be determined by the last product that you applied, and will not be inreased by combining products. I don't feel that protection is only as durable as the least durable 'layer', because products don't layer like sheets of paper..the best you can do for durability in my opinion is to do two applications of whatever lsp you choose and stick with that. The second application of product will make sure youve covered any areas you may have missed (not missed visually, but who's to know that the 1st application bonded 100% everywhere you put it?). Just my opinion based on conversations I've had with various manufacturers of waxes/sealants. Also the reason I don't use QD (aside from a trouble spot), AW, or any other topper..because I believe the cleaners in them as well as the chemicals that keep those products liquid will diminish/dissolve the existing lsp. I think for the most part all these people that use AW after every other wash and then claim it made their original lsp last for so long are just seeing the effects of using aw every other wash. Then again, I've been known to think against the grain ;)
 
Werkstatt gets my vote. Similar acrylic system but easier to use, better appearance (I generally only top it as a customer request) and at least as good durability.
 
Lightman said:
I believe that the durability will be determined by the last product that you applied, and will not be inreased by combining products. I don't feel that protection is only as durable as the least durable 'layer', because products don't layer like sheets of paper..the best you can do for durability in my opinion is to do two applications of whatever lsp you choose and stick with that. The second application of product will make sure youve covered any areas you may have missed (not missed visually, but who's to know that the 1st application bonded 100% everywhere you put it?). Just my opinion based on conversations I've had with various manufacturers of waxes/sealants. Also the reason I don't use QD (aside from a trouble spot), AW, or any other topper..because I believe the cleaners in them as well as the chemicals that keep those products liquid will diminish/dissolve the existing lsp. I think for the most part all these people that use AW after every other wash and then claim it made their original lsp last for so long are just seeing the effects of using aw every other wash. Then again, I've been known to think against the grain ;)
Click to expand...



I mostly agree, except on the QD/AW bit. I really don't think QD's or AW is strong enough to remove any amount of the LSP, as long as the LSP has cured for a day or so after application. Most QD's and spray waxes are after all formulated to be used on top of a LSP. The "chemical" that keeps QD's liquid is at least 90% water. If you use ONR to mix your own QD, you use about 5% ONR to 95% water, and those 5% are already liquid...
 
Zet said:
I mostly agree, except on the QD/AW bit. I really don't think QD's or AW is strong enough to remove any amount of the LSP, as long as the LSP has cured for a day or so after application. Most QD's and spray waxes are after all formulated to be used on top of a LSP. The "chemical" that keeps QD's liquid is at least 90% water. If you use ONR to mix your own QD, you use about 5% ONR to 95% water, and those 5% are already liquid...
Click to expand...



You may be right, I sure hope you are because I do use it from time to time when I have to. My point is more so that new applications of LSP's will likely dissolve any remaining thus somewhat negating the popular 'layering' concept as it relates to layers in the literal sense of the word. There is a big difference in quick detail sprays though as we all know...some have more cleaning power and some are mostly spray sealants with almost no cleaning power. I think your average qd user is using meguairs quik detailer spray from their local store or something like it with some light cleaning power to it, which I do think will slowly degrade your lsp...just my opinion.



Werkstatt gets a lot of good reviews as well, there are a lot of good choices out there as alternatives to SG..I'd suggest just getting small/sample size bottles and trying them out..it's fun and clutters your garage :)
 
another vote here for Werkstatt Prime and AJ-T combo.. I used to use the Klasse twins but since I've first used the the Prime-Strong and AJ-T, I never looked back.. IMO, PrimeStrong gives a better result (shine, wetness and reflectivity) than AIO and AJ-T beats SG in the ease of use... AJ-T is just so user-friendly that I also use it as a QD...
 
I have recently tested the carlack twins IE jeff werkstatts twins and I had no problem with hazing or removal with the sealant glaze. Did a test and left the SG on the hood during the night, and it was very easy to remove it 24h later.



Must try to apply it with a spray trigger like the acrylic jett.
 
Kinda hard to know he meant that, he made no mention of where to search so i assumed search here :nixweiss
 
I have only seen werkstatt, never used it. I bought my car from an autopian, and he dressed the front end of it up with werkstatt. I will say that it looks similar but a bit better than KSG...however on my car at least, the cg f-seal looks better yet.
 
I second the Duragloss 101 and 105 combo. The 101 acts as the AIO, as it mostly cleans and lays down some light protection. The 105, IMO, is every bit as durable as Klasse, and likely more so. It is a new polymer sealant formulation that looks better than Klasse(again IMO) and will last just as long or longer, in my experience. And, it's significantly easier to use than Klasse ever was for me.



Regards,



Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top