Aggressive Polishing

[glen22]

When I first purchased my pads and polishing compounds I thought I won't need any heavy compounds or heavy cutting pads. Boy was I wrong I seem to use both on almost every car I detail. I dont make a living at this mind you but I have done about 15 cars thus far and would like to know other opinions on this. Maybe I am doing something wrong. I love menzerna products for polishing the best just to give you an idea what product I use most anyway. Is it normal to do 2 polishes everytime a heavy and a final polish? I must say all the vehicles look great but I still question the aggressive approach.

 

[Beemerboy]

When I first purchased my pads and polishing compounds I thought I won't need any heavy compounds or heavy cutting pads. Boy was I wrong I seem to use both on almost every car I detail. I dont make a living at this mind you but I have done about 15 cars thus far and would like to know other opinions on this. Maybe I am doing something wrong. I love menzerna products for polishing the best just to give you an idea what product I use most anyway. Is it normal to do 2 polishes everytime a heavy and a final polish? I must say all the vehicles look great but I still question the aggressive approach.

Glenn

This question is really only answered by what the condition of the paint is...if there are tons of swirls then a heavier swirl remover is needed...then something lighter after to take out any hazing that might be caused by the compound / swirl remover...I don't always find that I have to be that aggressive with something like SSR2.5 or better...I tend to work with the lighter cutting compounds...and work them in real well...

lastly are you using a rotary or PC?...if its a PC in some cases you have to use heavier product to cut unlike with a rotary were you can cut with a lighter product, because of the heat

 

[Stephan]

I have found that a rotary with SSR2 makes quick work of swirls even with a very light polishing pad.

 

[bacwoodsboy]

i agree i use a UDM and have noticed that even on pretty rough stuff a orange pad and some medium power cut leveler....the biggest thing is to make sure you have broken down the product and if you use some type of medium you should follow with a less aggressive pad and or polish. so to answer your ? yes it is very likely that using 2 coats is necessary in my opinion anyway

 

[glen22]

Glenn

This question is really only answered by what the condition of the paint is...if there are tons of swirls then a heavier swirl remover is needed...then something lighter after to take out any hazing that might be caused by the compound / swirl remover...I don't always find that I have to be that aggressive with something like SSR2.5 or better...I tend to work with the lighter cutting compounds...and work them in real well...

lastly are you using a rotary or PC?...if its a PC in some cases you have to use heavier product to cut unlike with a rotary were you can cut with a lighter product, because of the heat

Yes I use a pc...I just wanted to make sure I wasnt doing anything wrong . Most of the cars are pretty bad but 4-10 years of using the wrong towels and bad washing habbits can mess up a car pretty good.I just needed to hear how others handle the situation thanks.

 

[Stephan]

Yes I use a pc...I just wanted to make sure I wasnt doing anything wrong . Most of the cars are pretty bad but 4-10 years of using the wrong towels and bad washing habbits can mess up a car pretty good.I just needed to hear how others handle the situation thanks.

You said you are using the Menzerna line with your PC, on the heavy swirls what are you using from their line? I have their Intesive Polish, Finishing Polish and Glaze, and with my PC the intensive polish is not always enough for heavily swirled finishes so I use the Rotary. I may pick up some Power Gloss, do you use that?

 

[glen22]

You said you are using the Menzerna line with your PC, on the heavy swirls what are you using from their line? I have their Intesive Polish, Finishing Polish and Glaze, and with my PC the intensive polish is not always enough for heavily swirled finishes so I use the Rotary. I may pick up some Power Gloss, do you use that?

Power Gloss is what I use and it works fine but when I placed my first order I figured I wont need the most aggressive pad and the intensive polish will be just fine. Now 80% of my vehicles I use the power gloss which I love. As Beemer said it depends on the car in question but all most every car requires the HEAVY DUTY first polish.I just find it strange that I would have to use the heavy hitters all the time but heck at least it works and with menzerna even with the power gloss you still get a decent shine from it.

 

[Stephan]

Power Gloss is what I use and it works fine but when I placed my first order I figured I wont need the most aggressive pad and the intensive polish will be just fine. Now 80% of my vehicles I use the power gloss which I love. As Beemer said it depends on the car in question but all most every car requires the HEAVY DUTY first polish.I just find it strange that I would have to use the heavy hitters all the time but heck at least it works and with menzerna even with the power gloss you still get a decent shine from it.

I am glad it works for you, I have always found that I have to usually use a more agressive pad and product when working with my as compared to a rotary. If you have to go to your heavy hitters alot, that probably just means you are getting alot of cars that are just not taken care of. I have gotten alot of customers, who not only have never had their car waxed...its barely ever been washed.

I also enjoy the menzerna line and want to try power gloss as the others have all worked nicely.

 

[Pander5]

If you have the time, take a section that you think needs Menz PG. Tape it off into 2 sections after you've done the PG and on one half of that section do it again with a less aggressive combo of polish and pad - if you have the 106FF and a white pad try that. Now take a good, strong light or bring it out into the sun and see if you can discern an appreciable difference in the two sections. Does the 2 stage section look any better? Things I look for include haziness, clouding, very fine buffer marring, holograms etc. Does the 2 stage section have better shine, clarity etc.?

In my experience I never go from PG to LSP. I always buff again with a lighter combo and slower speed (rotary user).

Again, if you have the time to experiment a little you'll see some of the nuances of what it takes to bring out the best shine. I've spent a lot of time changing pads, polishes, speeds etc. The tough part is working on various makes/models and getting to know what works on certain paints.

Have fun. Learning some of this stuff is both frustrating and extremely rewarding.

 

[glen22]

If you have the time, take a section that you think needs Menz PG. Tape it off into 2 sections after you've done the PG and on one half of that section do it again with a less aggressive combo of polish and pad - if you have the 106FF and a white pad try that. Now take a good, strong light or bring it out into the sun and see if you can discern an appreciable difference in the two sections. Does the 2 stage section look any better? Things I look for include haziness, clouding, very fine buffer marring, holograms etc. Does the 2 stage section have better shine, clarity etc.?

In my experience I never go from PG to LSP. I always buff again with a lighter combo and slower speed (rotary user).

Again, if you have the time to experiment a little you'll see some of the nuances of what it takes to bring out the best shine. I've spent a lot of time changing pads, polishes, speeds etc. The tough part is working on various makes/models and getting to know what works on certain paints.

Have fun. Learning some of this stuff is both frustrating and extremely rewarding.

No I always have to polish twice thats why I was asking to begin with because I seem to need such an aggressive atack I have to polish twice. I was just saying that Menzerna even the power gloss shines it really doesnt make it hazzy. You did bring up one issue though "SPEED " of the polisher I usually leave it on 5 for all polishing is this wrong?

 

[Stephan]

No I always have to polish twice thats why I was asking to begin with because I seem to need such an aggressive atack I have to polish twice. I was just saying that Menzerna even the power gloss shines it really doesnt make it hazzy. You did bring up one issue though "SPEED " of the polisher I usually leave it on 5 for all polishing is this wrong?

I believe he was using speed in reference to a rotary buffer. With a rotary speed is much more of an issue (because of heat) then a PC. I spread the product at between 2-3, and then break it down between 5 and 6. You should be fine with what you are doing.

 

[Pander5]

Sorry, glen22, I misunderstood your question. I get now that you are asking if a 2 stage buff is normal and I have to agree with others here in that it depends on what you are working on. Sounds like you're getting good results with the Menz polishes.

I used to crank my PC all the way up to 6 and if you're usual setting is 5 your good. Some don't crank the PC up in speed and wonder why they don't see much improvement. Even at speed setting 6 I wanted more cut at times and that is why I switched over to rotary polishing. Even with a rotary I'm doing mostly 2 stage buff and polishing so I would say it's perfectly fine. Again, it sounds as though you are getting good results and that's what matters. On the other hand I can get away with just a single stage buff/polish on some jobs with the rotary and go right to LSP. In those instances it has become a time saver for me anyway.

 

[Happyman]

I am very new to this and this is my first post. I understand about varying degress of abrasion induced by the pads and or products to get the desired results. I am considering a PC 7424. My question is, on paint that is in good condition, would I see much improvement using the most agressive pad with the same polish at a different speed than the finishing polish and finishing pad? Example...

Use the CCS Yelow pad at a higher speed with Poorboys Pro Polish for step one....

Then use the CCS White pad with the Poorboys Pro Polish at a lower speed to smooth out any microscatches and marring that are left?

Am I on the right track?

 

[Pander5]

I am very new to this and this is my first post. I understand about varying degress of abrasion induced by the pads and or products to get the desired results. I am considering a PC 7424. My question is, on paint that is in good condition, would I see much improvement using the most agressive pad with the same polish at a different speed than the finishing polish and finishing pad? Example...

Use the CCS Yelow pad at a higher speed with Poorboys Pro Polish for step one....

Then use the CCS White pad with the Poorboys Pro Polish at a lower speed to smooth out any microscatches and marring that are left?

Am I on the right track?

I don't have any experience with Poorboys Pro Polish but I do that exact approach sometimes with other polishes - namely Zaino ZPC and Menz PO106FF. Both of those polishes react differently with different pads and you can cut down with a higher cut pad first and then smooth everything out by cutting down a little less by using the same polish and a lighter cut pad. You suggest this on paint that is in "good condition" and that's relative. I've used my approach for cutting down through swirls and micro marring on paint that I would say is in good condition but it's tough to offer an approach on something I haven't seen. For medium to heavy correction I might use 2-3 different polishes and as many different cut pads so your logic of single polish/dual pad on "good" paint seems fair.

With regard to speed variations I rarely ever used my PC at speeds less than 5 and most of the time it was cranked all the way up to 6 (maybe 3-4 if applying LSP or spreading polish around the work area first). Unlike the rotary, in my opinion I don't think speed with the PC is a factor unless it's too slow. The PC needs to be working pretty good to break down polish and to me that is no lower than 5. Your suggestion is based more on the polish and the pad working together than speed variations. I'd be receptive to contrary opinions on this point, though.

You won't hurt anything by trying it and I always like to tape off a section and see for yourself if it is worth the time and effort.

Great question and it indicates you're thinking about abrasion which is the key to removing defects. Just don't go crazy - always start with the least aggressive approach to fix the problem. Maybe some of the pro's here can offer some insight to PB Pro Polish and it's effectiveness with a higher cut pad.