After removed carnuba wax, I found the circular oilly marks on the paint.

I

iamwashmania

New member
Hi Autopian



Lately I found problem on the paint after I removing wax.

The Circular oilly marks had found on the dark color.



I guess some problems made from these reasons;



1. I use MG Cleaner Wax and also gold class wax for customer choices. My worker may not shaking the bottle well that make more oil on the pad.

2. My worker wax the paint not stable pressure on his hand.

3. Everytime I was detailing the dark color, I marks will occur.





I try to fix this problem by;

1. Waxing equally pressure and small circular waxing.

2. After remove wax, I sprey the MG final detail.

3. Shaking the bottle well before put in on the pad.



For the removing medthod, I use MG MF ultimate wipe.



Please Give me some advises for my problem.

Thanks a lot.

:p
 
Hi,



Multiple problems



First, waxing isn't going to change the circular oily marks,

we call those darn things: swirl marks.

What you first should do is to use a polish like Meguiars DACP or from 3M swirl mark remover or 3M Machine Polish, to get rid of the swirlmarks.

Then you can wax.



This is very basic info i'm giving, much more info you can download FOR FREE on the home page: first 8 chapters of David's Detailing Guide.



Give it a go:xyxthumbs



Happy detailing



Christiaan
 
Christiaan

Thank for your advise.



The oilly mark not a swirl mark, I did the Meguiars DAPC then I wax the paint and the oilly mark just occur.



Varong

:D
 
Well,

to be 100% sure that those things are oily marks you can do the following:

mix 50% rubbing alcohol (or isopropanol) with50% of water.

Gently rub the oily marks (with a pure cotton towel of a high quality microfiber)

If the oily marks are gone: then they were true oily marks and you have a way of removing them



if not gone, then those are swirlmarks : only a polish and a lot of power (elbow grease) will get them out



Christiaan
 
Hi Varong,



Ive found that with the meg products (wax) and other poly sealants that if they are not fully dried/hazied before buffing them off sometimes they can leave a sort of discolouration on dark coloured cars.



Try to wait until the wax has dried and hazed before removing and see if that helps.
 
I agree with Mizzuri, the product might not have hazed long enough on the paint.



I do know the oil you are talking about on the paint. Does it change direction when you wipe a towel on the surface?



Wiping the whole vehicle down with a couple wet Microfiber towels after you have finished waxing should remove most of the oil.



I do believe it might be you are either putting on too much product or not letting it haze long enough.
 
I've noticed that oily haze when using #26 and also with MPPP. It occurs mainly when I try to layer them in the same day. Or when I apply more than one coat of #26 on the same day. Are you using cleaner/wax followed by GC wax? Maybe that's the problem. Just a thought.
 
My experience is this....You can get these "oily" marks, while polishing... The oils may tend to not evaporate completely (drying). Even once the polish has hazed, it can still be visible while your removing it. It is extremely aggravating....But stay in it, say to yourself "I will win"!....hehe...You can remove these with lots of up/back motion with a MF. Mist it with a non-carnauba based QD, or water if needed. I have experienced this multiple times on dark colors, especially with BF. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THESE BEFORE YOUR FINAL SEALANT/WAX.......If the paint is starved for oils, this is particularly common. One product which reduces these 99 % is 3M SMR. I cant stress how important it is to remove this b4 sealing !! The sealant or wax, wont remove these unless theres a cleaner in it......., and BF doesnt have a cleaner in its PP..
 
Hi Jaeb!!!



What Meguiar's wax were you using? If you're using #26, then that's pretty common... Since the humidity in Bangkok is quite similar to Manila, I would suggest that you give it more time to it to haze (dry). #26 is quite hard to remove if it's humid and if it's applied too thick.



First, make sure your surface is really cool, #26 (and other oily waxes) tend to smear a lot if the surface is warm... Take special note on surfaces near the engine.



Make sure you apply really thin layers... In my experience, a 1" circle blob on an applicator will sufficiently layer 1/2-1/3 of a hood of a smooth surface (assuming that it's a regular family sized car). The waiting time for #26 in humid conditions can be as long as 30-45 minutes... Sometimes, if I have the luxury of working in an enclosed garage, I place a fan to reduce humidity. If you apply it thin enough, it'll dry and wipe off a lot easier.



Your assumption of not shaking the bottle thoroughly plays a part too since #26 tends to separate into an oily yellow liquid on top and a pasty white liquid at the bottom. Shake it really well, i usually shake all my product containers at least a full minute before using (much like spray paints hehe)



Also, follow up with a quick detailing spray round afterwards. It helps #26 feel slicker... Park it under the sun after QDing to see if you've missed any spots (since you operate at night, your florecent lamps will be a good help as well). QD any missed spots... Sometimes, if it's too hard to remove, don't use more pressure, use a little cleaner wax to remove the wax layer and rewax that spot instead.



Hope it helps...



Dave:wavey
 
Thank you very much for all of your recommendations.



I found the way to correct this problem.



I use the MG Final Detailed pray on the paint till the paint quite wet then use the MF wipe it till it dry. If the mark still there, I spray at the area agian. The oily mark is gone.



The idea of Alchoho with water is the way to clean oily mark. I will try it again...

:D
 
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