advice greatly needed

miguey

New member
Hi well I've own my civic for about a year now , i bought the car from a guy who just had it parked in the backyard where the harsh sun damaged the paint and i was looking for some expert advice to see if there's anything to bring my paint back to life.
(here's some pictures of it washed). tips and advices welcome:)



Hard water stains :(


can anything be done about this?
 
Its hard to tell about your hood but the roof looks like it needs a repaint. Sorry!!

Try some polish or compound on the hood with a terrycloth . If red paint comes off then you have a single stage and it possibly could polish out . If no color comes off your clearcoat is most likely failed.

I dont know any way of repairing the window.

Sorry for the bad news.:(
 
Unfortunately, looks like clear coat failure to me in those pics, especially on the roof. But it's possible it could be really bad oxidation, in which case you could compound it out. What do have to work with? Hand, DA, orbital? Any products, or do you need to buy?
 
The problem with trying to figure out if it is clear coat failure is you need to test a spot that still is somewhat shiny or without the greying. You will still get the color on your pad/wrag with clearcoat failure and may assue it is single stage if you start on top.

This is not to say it doesn't have single stage. There could be possible failure due to a past repair with cheap clear put over it.(you can scratch it off with your finger nail) It is much easier for a shop to get a blendable color match and clear it then dead on single stage match especially red. They match to current paint condition even faded. This is why you find a panel that doesn't match at all after a dull to perfect polish out.

By all means give it a shot though it would be great practice. You will need more pads though.
 
The problem with trying to figure out if it is clear coat failure is you need to test a spot that still is somewhat shiny or without the greying. You will still get the color on your pad/wrag with clearcoat failure and may assue it is single stage if you start on top.

This is not to say it doesn't have single stage. There could be possible failure due to a past repair with cheap clear put over it.(you can scratch it off with your finger nail) It is much easier for a shop to get a blendable color match and clear it then dead on single stage match especially red. They match to current paint condition even faded. This is why you find a panel that doesn't match at all after a dull to perfect polish out.

By all means give it a shot though it would be great practice. You will need more pads though.
That is true, sometimes its difficult to determine what kind of paint you have if its too far gone .

I would test near the honda emblem on the hood because it looks like the paint is still somewhat good there .

I have a friend with one of these red honda civics and its single satge but your right no telling if a body shop may have clear coated it in a repaint.
 
While I agree that it definitely looks like clear-coat failure, i was under the impression (perhaps wrongly) that those are single-stage from the factory).

Do you have any experience with a machine polisher? Either a DA or a rotary?

The glass is BAD! You could probably reduce the scratches, but you risk beveling the glass and creating a lens effect.
 
imo you cannot tell if that is clearcoat failure or not, being as its a older honda with a solid color paint. i have a feeling it is single stage paint for being a car of that vintage. i highly doubt its clearcoat failure. as others said take some m205 or some scratch x and test a spot with a yellow applicator, if color comes off on the applicator its single stage paint. to make that look good you will probably need to put some time into that paint. what i would do is get some meguiars mirror glaze #7 show car glaze put it on a terry towel and rub the paint down by hand using alot of product,(you want the paint to be wet with product) reason for this is to rehydrate the paint to make it easier to remove the oxidation, what most do is lay on a thick coat of the #7 let sit for 12-24 hours, remove it by hand then start the buffing proccess. i would do a test spot starting with a wool pad with some m105 or ultimate compound then after you remove bulk of oxidation and get to fresh paint you can do another pass of m105/UC on a foam light cutting pad. then move to m205 or mirror glaze #9 swirl remover. then if your satisfied with the results you can do a pass with some mirror glaze #3 machine glaze on a finishing pad then do your choice of sealant/wax!. hope you bring that old honda paint back to being shiny!..again i HIGHLY doubt its clearcoat failure. im betting its single stage paint. remember guys you cannot just jump to the worst possible conclusion with things. first thing to do is look at the vintage of the car. furthermore, you can tell it is not clearcoat failure as it would have splotches of bubbled up clear or WHITE areas around red paint. you can tell the paint is nearly pink its so oxidized and notice how the vertical panels are not like the horizontal panels. so to the op you will need to put time,effort,elbow grease and some money into the paint but alas, it WILL be cheaper then a repaint!. and once you get the paint looking good it will stay that way if taken care of, or you can go with opti-coat,cquartz,system-x or any other PPC(permanent paint coating) good luck cant wait to see the results! if you was in my area i would come help you out for free as i LOVE taking a paint like that and turning it into a very nice looking paint. that is what i strive for in detailing!...again good luck and cant wait to see how you make out!

PS. about the glass you might need to get it replaced as it does look too deep to remove with anything on the market, the only thing that the current products on the market will do is lighten up the scratches but they look very deep. should not be too hard of a window to replace as it looks like a vent style window which can be removed easily.

P.S.S one reason why im guessing its single stage is look at how flat the paint is, a repaint would have alittle orange peel if its bc/cc especialy on a honda as someone who would repaint a car of that vintage would not get an expensive paint job. generaly older honda paint has little to no orange peel. i've also noticed single stage paints dont have as much orange peel for some reason while basecoat/clear coat has some orange peel. alas DO A TEST SPOT! only way to tell for sure!
 
That's single stage paint, my wife had a car just like it color and all. The paint looks very thin and the reason it looks like clear coat failure. Most of the car once polished ( by machine preferable) would come back to look OK. Most of us know that red is a hard color to keep from oxidation even the clear coated ones.
 
That's single stage paint, my wife had a car just like it color and all. The paint looks very thin and the reason it looks like clear coat failure. Most of the car once polished ( by machine preferable) would come back to look OK. Most of us know that red is a hard color to keep from oxidation even the clear coated ones.

well if it's just CC failure i might just take it to a detail shop , so what would i ask for? buffing, full detail ,what?
 
well if it's just CC failure i might just take it to a detail shop , so what would i ask for? buffing, full detail ,what?

Depends on where ya live, as for the cost go. Visit a few of them and see what they say, then come back and post that. That's not clear coat failure, unless the car was repainted. Again my wife had one just like it years ago.
 
Depends on where ya live, as for the cost go. Visit a few of them and see what they say, then come back and post that. That's not clear coat failure, unless the car was repainted. Again my wife had one just like it years ago.

i live in los angeles , does anybody know where i can find some good detail shop?


 
superior shine, a member on autogeek owns the company, he might be expensive. in all honesty the money you spend on a detail you can buy all the products and tools to do it yourself. go to superiorshine.com get his number and call him up but i would rather you get the tools and learn to do it yourself! what i honestly would get is a porter cable 7424xp or a griots 6" polisher, then get yourself 2 orange,2 white 2 grey/black lake country pads (get 5.5" pads and a 5" backing plate) then get some meguiars ultimate compound(suggesting this for longer working time and more user friendly then the m105) then get some m205 or mirror glaze #9 swirl remover and use that to finish the buffing. now i dont know if the porter cable will work good with a purple foamed wool or a normal wool pad other wise id say get one of those for your first step. we here at autopia can teach you how to use a polisher, the griots and porter cable are very easy to use. mike phillips taught his 8 year old son how to use one to polish up a bat mobile(i think his son was 8). it's a very user friendly machine. you will be glad you got the product/tools to do this yourself.it might even pay for itself after some people see how it turned out!. the self worth you feel after doing something like that yourself is a great feeling!. trust me on this. now the hardest part of your car will be hood and roof, after that the side portions of the car will be easy as pie to get shiny!. again good luck hope you can make 'er look beautiful!
 
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If that is single stage paint, I'd say that's good news - maybe you can polish it up, while clear coat failure can only be fixed with a re-paint.
 
Forget the roof!!!!!!
Wetsand it down with 400 grit and wrap it in matte black.....
Polish the rest it will shine.....
Some SI or GSR rims and all set.
That civic is a very nice vehicle...
:hotrod2:
 
Forget the roof!!!!!!
Wetsand it down with 400 grit and wrap it in matte black.....
Polish the rest it will shine.....
Some SI or GSR rims and all set.
That civic is a very nice vehicle...
:hotrod2:

I'm trying to go for the complete stock look
 
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