Advice for Newb--Oxidized 1990 white BMW (long)

[Flat]

Hi everyone, I recently joined and have been looking around at the wealth of information in the "Threads for Newbies" area. While I'm reading through this I thought I'd ask everyones opinion on what I should do with my car, with my ability and products I have on hand--just to get some opinions.



First off, I'm a car guy but am new to detailing. Aside from a once-a-year hand-wax with something like Turtle Liquid Wax, I'm a total newbie. Car is a 1990 BMW, Alpine White II. I'm not sure if it is single-stage or base-clear, I've read conflicting info. Car has light/medium swirls and pretty heavy but consistent oxidation over the whole car. Aside from a couple dings and rock chips, the paint looks like it will clean up well. I'll get pictures of the paints condition and post them tomorow!



I'll be doing the whole car by hand in a heated garage. I know I can't get the results I would with an orbital, but that's not an option right now. (Hopefully just after new years I will have one!) I should also note that the car has had some paintwork in the past, but there seems to be some original paint also (hood and a quarterpanel). A friend mentioned that my paint looked incredibly thin in some places. With my inexperience, I worry about burning through paint to the grey primer.



What would you add to the following list of products for my first complete detail, be it to aid efficiency or a polish/wax recommendation?



What I'm Working With:

Meguiar's Gold Class Wash

(2) 5gal buckets

MF sponge, wool mitt, wheel sponge and brush, rocker panel spong

Meguiar's Clay Kit

3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound

Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner

Rejuvenator One-Step-Paint-Restoration

Meguiar's Liquid Cleaner Wax

Meguiar's Liquid Step 3 Carnuba Wax

Various applicators, MF cloth, detailing brushes

Plus Lexol, Stoner Invisible Glass, 3M Plastic Polish, Bug&Tar, Rain-X, Wheel Cleaner from detailing dept. at BMW dealer (not sure what brand)



My initial plan after doing some research and talking to locals is the following:

1. Remove grills, lights, trim.
   
2. Wash, Bug&Tar remover, towel dry.
   
3. Tape off trim, etc. with blue painter's tape.
   
4. Claybar on whole car.
   
5. Hand polish with Rejuvenator product, MF cloth to wipe down.
   
6. Wax with the Meguiar's Step 3 Carnuba Wax.
   

I don't mind spending a few bucks to get the right products. Can you guys offer any advice for what products I should use and in what steps?



Thanks in advance!

 

[Street5927]

Welcome! I would add the grit guards for the buckets (if you don't already have them). I would also look into something like Klasse All in One. It works extremely well by hand, does the job of a few different products (which will save time), produces a nice finish and doesn't stain plastics or trim; which brings me to my next suggestion...that being, it is not necessary to remove the grille, etc. You can if you want, but taping would be sufficient for what you are doing. I would also try Stoner's bug & tar. I know you mentioned bug & tar, but not what kind. I am a fan of this product. Finally, one last thing, if you are going to remove the grille, lights, etc., I would wash first before removing all those items as not to get water in any unnecessary places.

 

[Dan]

If you plan on getting a dual action polisher in the near future, there is no point in attacking the paint with abrasives, especially if you are concerned about thin paint. I will second the recommendation for KAIO and say you could also check out Duragloss 501. It is a marine/RV product that is great on oxidation and actually looks great on white.

 

[Accumulator]

Hi everyone, I recently joined and have been looking around at the wealth of information in the "Threads for Newbies" area. While I'm reading through this I thought I'd ask everyones opinion on what I should do with my car, with my ability and products I have on hand--just to get some opinions...

Welcome to Autopia!

First off, I'm a car guy but am new to detailing. Aside from a once-a-year hand-wax with something like Turtle Liquid Wax, I'm a total newbie. Car is a 1990 BMW, Alpine White II. I'm not sure if it is single-stage or base-clear, I've read conflicting info. Car has light/medium swirls and pretty heavy but consistent oxidation over the whole car. Aside from a couple dings and rock chips, the paint looks like it will clean up well. I'll get pictures of the paints condition and post them tomorow!

White paint oughta be a good starting point for getting into serious detailing. You'll be able to make it look a *LOT* better without driving yourself nuts.



I'd be pretty surprised if it's not basecoat/clearcoat, but I can't say for sure (my Bimmers of that vintage were all b/c).

I'll be doing the whole car by hand in a heated garage. I know I can't get the results I would with an orbital, but that's not an option right now. (Hopefully just after new years I will have one!) I should also note that the car has had some paintwork in the past, but there seems to be some original paint also (hood and a quarterpanel). A friend mentioned that my paint looked incredibly thin in some places. With my inexperience, I worry about burning through paint to the grey primer.

No real need to worry about burning through with a machine, much more likely that you'll think "gee, this is taking forever!". Working by hand will be a real challenge.

What would you add to the following list of products for my first complete detail, be it to aid efficiency or a polish/wax recommendation?



What I'm Working With:

Meguiar's Gold Class Wash

(2) 5gal buckets

MF sponge, wool mitt, wheel sponge and brush, rocker panel spong

Meguiar's Clay Kit

3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound

The PI-II RC is moderately effective (even by hand) but doesn't leave all that great a finish. And it is silica-based so the dust can kill you dead just like asbestos. I'd want to use something like the new Optimum Spray Compound instead. Meguiar's M105 is another option, but it's not as user-friendly as the Optimum by a long shot.

Meguiar's #2 Fine Cut Cleaner

Even if you have the newer reformulated stuff that works OK by hand, this will require a follow up with something milder. The older version had good chemical cleaners for oxidation and I'd be surprised if the newer stuff isn't similar.

Rejuvenator One-Step-Paint-Restoration

Not familiar with this product. Might be an OK follow up to the RC.

Meguiar's Liquid Cleaner Wax

No real use for this unless maybe in the doorjambs/etc. Keep it off black/plastic trim. Lousy durability.

Meguiar's Liquid Step 3 Carnuba Wax

Yuck, mediocre at best. So-so looks, lousy durability. I'd use some wax from Collinite instead. Probably the trim-friendly 845 Insulator Wax.

My initial plan after doing some research and talking to locals is the following:

1. Remove grills, lights, trim.
   
2. Wash, Bug&Tar remover, towel dry.
   
3. Tape off trim, etc. with blue painter's tape.
   
4. Claybar on whole car.
   
5. Hand polish with Rejuvenator product, MF cloth to wipe down.
   
6. Wax with the Meguiar's Step 3 Carnuba Wax.
   

I don't mind spending a few bucks to get the right products. Can you guys offer any advice for what products I should use and in what steps?]

No need to take off trim/tape stuff if you're working by hand. And no need to do it before claying anyhow.



You'll almost certainly want to use something more potent than the Rejuvenator (not that I know from it) and then do a follow up with some kind of finishing polish. Then wax with something better than the Meg's Deep Crystal Step #3 wax.



You could try using the M02 Fine Cut, then...oh, I dunno... Meguiar's M205 or 1Z High Gloss (or some other by-hand-friendly finishing polish). Not sure if Zaino's All In One would have enough cut to follow M02, it might and if so would be a good choice (Klasse AIO is functionally nonabrasive so I wouldn't use that though it's great to have on-hand anyhow and could/should replace your cleaner-wax).



Recap:

-Wash, clay, rewash if necessary

-Correct paint with aggressive product like M02 (which should also be good on the oxidation)

-Polish with something mild that still has some cut (M205, 1Z HG, maybe Zaino AIO)

-Wax with Collinite 845

 

[Flat]

Welcome! I would add the grit guards for the buckets (if you don't already have them). I would also look into something like Klasse All in One. It works extremely well by hand, does the job of a few different products (which will save time), produces a nice finish and doesn't stain plastics or trim; which brings me to my next suggestion...that being, it is not necessary to remove the grille, etc. You can if you want, but taping would be sufficient for what you are doing. I would also try Stoner's bug & tar. I know you mentioned bug & tar, but not what kind. I am a fan of this product. Finally, one last thing, if you are going to remove the grille, lights, etc., I would wash first before removing all those items as not to get water in any unnecessary places.

Thanks for the info. About the grills, bumpers and trim, I'll be removing these anyhow--nothing complicated, I've pulled these cars apart many times, plus I plan to do some detailing on the paint around the radiator support and rest of the bay. I just picked up some 2" Central Flex painter's tape from HF for taping off other areas if needed. Noted on the Klasse product, checking it out after this post!

If you plan on getting a dual action polisher in the near future, there is no point in attacking the paint with abrasives, especially if you are concerned about thin paint. I will second the recommendation for KAIO and say you could also check out Duragloss 501. It is a marine/RV product that is great on oxidation and actually looks great on white.

Sorry, when I say after the new year, it will probably be several months from now. Going to check out the Klasse and DG, thanks!

Welcome to Autopia!



White paint oughta be a good starting point for getting into serious detailing. You'll be able to make it look a *LOT* better without driving yourself nuts.



I'd be pretty surprised if it's not basecoat/clearcoat, but I can't say for sure (my Bimmers of that vintage were all b/c).



After some more searching, it looks like Alpine II is b/c.



No real need to worry about burning through with a machine, much more likely that you'll think "gee, this is taking forever!". Working by hand will be a real challenge.



I'm confused, did you mean no need to worry about burning working by hand? or machine? I was under the impression that burning through is common for newbs with a machine. If not, should I buy the electric hand polisher from Harbor Freight?



The PI-II RC is moderately effective (even by hand) but doesn't leave all that great a finish. And it is silica-based so the dust can kill you dead just like asbestos. I'd want to use something like the new Optimum Spray Compound instead. Meguiar's M105 is another option, but it's not as user-friendly as the Optimum by a long shot.



Optimum Spray Compound and M105, will check those out. Optimum sounds more for me.



Even if you have the newer reformulated stuff that works OK by hand, this will require a follow up with something milder. The older version had good chemical cleaners for oxidation and I'd be surprised if the newer stuff isn't similar.



Honestly it's probably 5-6 years old, some of the products I have (All the Meg's and 3M) are from my dads old collection. Is this stuff still safe to use?



Not familiar with this product. Might be an OK follow up to the RC. Malco Rejuvenator was recommended by someone at a local detail supply shop. He applied a portion on my sunroof panel by hand and it pulled out a nice shine, I was impressed. It was about $10 for a 32oz so I picked it up.





No need to take off trim/tape stuff if you're working by hand. And no need to do it before claying anyhow.



You'll almost certainly want to use something more potent than the Rejuvenator (not that I know from it) and then do a follow up with some kind of finishing polish. Then wax with something better than the Meg's Deep Crystal Step #3 wax.



You could try using the M02 Fine Cut, then...oh, I dunno... Meguiar's M205 or 1Z High Gloss (or some other by-hand-friendly finishing polish). Not sure if Zaino's All In One would have enough cut to follow M02, it might and if so would be a good choice (Klasse AIO is functionally nonabrasive so I wouldn't use that though it's great to have on-hand anyhow and could/should replace your cleaner-wax).



Recap:

-Wash, clay, rewash if necessary

-Correct paint with aggressive product like M02 (which should also be good on the oxidation)

-Polish with something mild that still has some cut (M205, 1Z HG, maybe Zaino AIO)

-Wax with Collinite 845

In my OP I was a little unclear as to how I'd be taping, etc. I'll be pulling bumpers and some trim anyhow for further cleaning and engine bay cleaning so it's no concern. I'm noting all the products you guys mentioned. If I had the choice I'd be researching this stuff all evening but Christmas family-time calls! Atleast for a few hours, then it's back to the forums!



Really excited about seeing what I can do with this car. I just went out to take before pictures for you guys but I can't find my damn camera cord. After detailing next week I'll pickup an SD card and be sure to post many, many pics.

 

[imported_Ivan Rajic]

Replying from my phone so hope itmakes some sense on here... If you skip quite a few of those pointless products and pick up a used PC machine you will be much much happier with results, now and in tbe future. I would suggest you get a PC, an orange and white 5.5" pads and a sample of M205 or D151 (or similar) then a good wax amd you're set. You'll learn a lot from M205 via PC and white and or orange pad without risking paint damage. Hell I'll even mail you 4oz of M205 but you can just as easy ask Meg's for a sample until you can afford 12 or 32oz.



As far as the paint goes, contrary to Accum. I've detailed and owned roughly 6-7 E30s and paint was always SS unless repainted. Just grab any polish and a rag and lightly but with some pressure wipe the paint... If you see white on the towel, it's SS. Just remember to do that on all panels.



Long story short, I'd highly recommend revising your list and saving up another $20-40 so you can buy a used PC. You'll be simply wasting a ton of time by hand and results won't be nearly as good as they can be. Been there myself years ago as many here have.



Hope that helps.

 

[Flat]

Replying from my phone so hope itmakes some sense on here... If you skip quite a few of those pointless products and pick up a used PC machine you will be much much happier with results, now and in tbe future. I would suggest you get a PC, an orange and white 5.5" pads and a sample of M205 or D151 (or similar) then a good wax amd you're set. You'll learn a lot from M205 via PC and white and or orange pad without risking paint damage. Hell I'll even mail you 4oz of M205 but you can just as easy ask Meg's for a sample until you can afford 12 or 32oz.



As far as the paint goes, contrary to Accum. I've detailed and owned roughly 6-7 E30s and paint was always SS unless repainted. Just grab any polish and a rag and lightly but with some pressure wipe the paint... If you see white on the towel, it's SS. Just remember to do that on all panels.

Long story short, I'd highly recommend revising your list and saving up another $20-40 so you can buy a used PC. You'll be simply wasting a ton of time by hand and results won't be nearly as good as they can be. Been there myself years ago as many here have.

The plan wasn't to use all those products, just letting you guys know what I have avail. Thanks for the offer but I'll pickup some from Meg's. When I put the pink Rejuvenator polish compound on the Alpine II paint, it came off on the app pad pink, no white....so I'm pretty sure it's b/c. Alpine White I which was used up until the body update (9/87 production, '88MY) was a single-stage paint.



So now a bit of a curveball. GF picked me up an inexpensive 10" random orbital from Advance Auto. I might swap it for the smaller 6" unit. According to the specs they turn 3000rpm, are random orbital and don't easily burn paint, comes with a polishing and terry pad. Seen here: Advance Auto Parts: Search Results for random orbital



Hmm, not sure what to do. Secured a shop bay next for a day next week to get the work done, need to figure out what direction to take. Will post more later.

 

[imported_Ivan Rajic]

Sorry I just realized you listed what you had and not what you planned on getting. In any case, I would still suggest saving up for a used PC as that's kind of the minimum in the detailing world that will get you good results in a timely manner. The 6" polisher you linked to might be better than doing it by hand but I still wouldn't expect much from it.



Best of luck with whatever you decide to do.

 

[Accumulator]

Flat- With appologies to your girlfriend, that 10" orbital really isn't gonna do you any good. I'd listen to Lustr and at least save up for a used PC (or something even better ).



You won't burn paint by hand, and if you get the right machine the chances of burning/damaging it with the machine will be awfully remote too. You can set the speed nice and low and just use it like "a fast hand that never gets tired" while you're getting a feel for the whole process. Trust me on this- the motions of moving a polisher across your paint are a *LOT* more pleasant than rub-rub-rubbing every inch of it by hand!



Don't buy that Harbor Freight Rotary polisher; that's the wrong kind. You want a "random orbital", just not one like your girlfriend got. Eh...I'd just bite the bullet and buy the 6" Random Orbital made by Griot's Garage. Yeah, it's a little pricey but then you're simply set for life. Easy for me to spend your money though! But buying cheap polishers is simply a waste of time and money IMO.



Your old products should still be fine as long as they haven't frozen (or dried out). I use *OLD* products all the time and I don't mean just four or five years old either But some stuff like the Optimum Spray Compound and M205 (just used both of those on my new beater-SUV, and they turned a huge, horrific chore into a doable project) will be worth obtaining if only because it'll make things go smoother than less user-friendly products, sometimes by a *huge* margin like you can't imagine.

 

[Accumulator]

Lustr- That's interesting about all those single stage cars you've had/done, has me thinking how I really do learn something every day! I've only done one 740 besides my various M3s, but I've simply never run across a single stage BMW.

 

[imported_Ivan Rajic]

Lustr- That's interesting about all those single stage cars you've had/done, has me thinking how I really do learn something every day! I've only done one 740 besides my various M3s, but I've simply never run across a single stage BMW.

Here are two in my gallery...



LUSTR Auto Detailing Gallery - BMW 1990 325



LUSTR Auto Detailing Gallery - BMW 1991 318



90 325 and 91 318. Another one I clearly remember is an 88 white 325. All SS. I never detailed an E30 M3 nor a 7 series so I wouldn't know about that.

 

[Accumulator]

Lustr- Huh...oh, and those are sharp cars :xyxthumbs



Maybe this explains it- I've only had/done metallic paint ones.



Something odd about my Byzanz metallic e36 M3 was that the out-of-the-way places weren't cleared :think: Just basecoat over primer.

 

[Flat]

Flat- With appologies to your girlfriend, that 10" orbital really isn't gonna do you any good. I'd listen to Lustr and at least save up for a used PC (or something even better ).



You won't burn paint by hand, and if you get the right machine the chances of burning/damaging it with the machine will be awfully remote too. You can set the speed nice and low and just use it like "a fast hand that never gets tired" while you're getting a feel for the whole process. Trust me on this- the motions of moving a polisher across your paint are a *LOT* more pleasant than rub-rub-rubbing every inch of it by hand!



Don't buy that Harbor Freight Rotary polisher; that's the wrong kind. You want a "random orbital", just not one like your girlfriend got. Eh...I'd just bite the bullet and buy the 6" Random Orbital made by Griot's Garage. Yeah, it's a little pricey but then you're simply set for life. Easy for me to spend your money though! But buying cheap polishers is simply a waste of time and money IMO.



Your old products should still be fine as long as they haven't frozen (or dried out). I use *OLD* products all the time and I don't mean just four or five years old either But some stuff like the Optimum Spray Compound and M205 (just used both of those on my new beater-SUV, and they turned a huge, horrific chore into a doable project) will be worth obtaining if only because it'll make things go smoother than less user-friendly products, sometimes by a *huge* margin like you can't imagine.

I figured as much about the buffer. She overheard me say something about a random-orbiital buffer the other night and picked it up as a last minute gift since it was cheap. I'll probably return it and put the $ towards a PC later on as you guys suggested. Good analogy about the PC, that's just what I'm looking for!



I think I'll do the car by hand next week, just to get more acquainted to a complete detail, then down the road when I pickup a DA I'll go from there. For now, the car looks like it just needs a good polishing up of the oxidation and a good wax coat to for protection.



With the items on hand, I could do: (assuming already wash/clay, surface is ready)

-a polish with the Malco Rejuvenator

-a wax for protection as last step (from the suggestions, the Collinite #845 [or was it 345?] Liquid Wax was most appealing to me.)



Or Should I do as others have mentioned and:

-a heavier compound like Meg's Fine Cut #2 followed by something lighter?

-What would that lighter polish/compound be?

-Follow with Wax



I figure I may as well work with what I've got for this hand polish/wax...then upgrade with I get a proper PC. I will buy a new wax though since all the wax's I have are mediocre and I like the Collinite in the $15 range for this job though. My local supply shop also recommended a product called Race Glaze, about $14 foxr a 12oz or so. Told me to clay the car, then polish with Rejuv then wax with Race Glaze. Rambling at this point.

 

[Accumulator]

I figured as much about the buffer. She overheard me say something about a random-orbiital buffer the other night and picked it up as a last minute gift since it was cheap. I'll probably return it and put the $ towards a PC later on as you guys suggested.

Hmmm..wonder what products they'd have that you might find useful :think:

I think I'll do the car by hand next week, just to get more acquainted to a complete detail, then down the road when I pickup a DA I'll go from there. For now, the car looks like it just needs a good polishing up of the oxidation and a good wax coat to for protection.



With the items on hand, I could do: (assuming already wash/clay, surface is ready)

-a polish with the Malco Rejuvenator

-a wax for protection as last step (from the suggestions, the Collinite #845 [or was it 345?] Liquid Wax was most appealing to me.)

Yikes, gonna do it by hand huh? Heh heh, OK...it's your funeral :chuckle: Sorry, couldn't resist.



It's Collinite 845 ("eight forty-five") AKA "Insulator Wax". Sometimes you can find it on the autoparts/auto paint and body store shelf, sometimes you have to order it. But yeah, go with that. Doesn't stain trim (I use it on exterior black plastic), lasts a long time, cleans up well, and looks at least OK by any standard.



Your plan looks OK, if labor-intensive.

Or Should I do as others have mentioned and:

-a heavier compound like Meg's Fine Cut #2 followed by something lighter?

-What would that lighter polish/compound be?

-Follow with Wax

If your M02 says it's OK for use by hand (the newer version is OK and the label says so) then use that on tough spots/bad scratches and then use the Malco then wax.

My local supply shop also recommended a product called Race Glaze, about $14 foxr a 12oz or so. Told me to clay the car, then polish with Rejuv then wax with Race Glaze. Rambling at this point.

Hey, I ramble through lots of bandwidth myself Skip the Race Glaze, they're just trying to make a sale. Get the Collinite, even if you have to order it. You really, *really* won't regret it.

 

[Flat]

With budget in mind, I stopped by the detailing supply shop this afternoon to pick out a wax to go over the Malco Rejuvenator. Knowing that this shop carried a lot of professional grade products, I was hoping they had Collinite 845 wax, but no luck. After hearing my situation, the fellow recommended an 8oz bottle of Malco Cherry Flash Liquid Wax ($3.49, aligned with my budget nicely!). He mentioned the Cherry version of Flash was more user-friendly because it didn't dust like the other Flash. So I picked that up along with some new pads.



I won't be able to detail the car until later in the week but I was extremely anxious to try out some products on body-color paint, so I pulled the passenger side mirror and am going through the steps, taking pics along the way. Washed it with Meg's Gold, Clayed and let it dry while I went to dinner. Now I'm about to try out some Rejuvenator and maybe some Megs #2 on part of it to see what does what!

 

[Accumulator]

Flat- Glad you found something, it'll be interesting to hear what you think of the Malco Cherry Flash.



What do you mean you "let it dry" after claying? I just wipe off the clay lube (rewashing if I think it's called for) and dry it.

 

[Flat]

Flat- Glad you found something, it'll be interesting to hear what you think of the Malco Cherry Flash.



What do you mean you "let it dry" after claying? I just wipe off the clay lube (rewashing if I think it's called for) and dry it.

I simply meant making sure that the surface is ready for compound, sorry for the confusion.



So, a new development. I returned the 10" Advance Auto buffer and went to Harbor Freight to use the money to purchase the Chicago-Electric (rebadged as Drill Master) 7" Variable Speed Polisher Sander. Seen here: 7" Variable Speed Polisher/Sander



I know I'll take some heat for going with this tool but I feel that with all things considered, it was a good purchase. Cost was only $26.99, with a 2 year and 90 day warranty and tax, I was out the door for $40 and change.



Questions:

-I've read that the velcro backing plate that comes with the Chicago-Electric is probably not worth my time. True? Is there an inexpensive alternative? The 3M one I found is $50 (ouch).

-Is the polishing pad that came with the Chicago-Electric decent? If not, what polishing pad would you guys recommend for polishing with Malco Rejuvenator?



Lots of research to do tonight...

As always I appreciate the helpful feedback from you guys, it goes a long way! eace:

 

[Accumulator]

Flat- OK, I'm gonna come across as a wet blanket here, but I'm gonna give it to you straight:



That polisher is more likely to do harm than good in the hands of anybody who lacks considerable experience (and I don't mean just a dozen hours on one or two cars). No, I don't think you'll burn the paint unless you get careless for a few seconds, but I do think you'll instill some nasty "holograms" that you won't be able to fix. I absolutely recomend that you not use it. Period. Sorry.



If you do use it, I'll bet anything that it'll require a follow-up with something like a PC to remove the holograms. But at least holograms are less obvious on white. Sure hope you don't overthin/burn/otherwise mess up the paint though. That's the kind of machine that *can* do such things pretty readily.



At best you can use a product to *fill*/conceal the holograms but you'd probably better apply that by hand.



Or maybe you can finish with 3M Ultrafina and get lucky :nixweiss



Again, sorry to be a drag, but I don't want you to mess up your car.



Backing plates- different people like different ones, but generally I think the one by Meguiar's (can't remember the number) is a good one to start with. Don't skimp on backing plates, it's a bad place to try to save money (well..same can be said for polishers). You'll want a pad with some flex to it, either a rubber one or one with plenty of foam interface.



I recommend you use 6-6.5" pads with the appropriately sized plate as they're much easier to control.



You'll need at least two types of pads, one to do the correction and one to finish with. And a brush to clean them with (I'd want numerous pads myself). NO way around that one, as the pads will become loaded with cut-off paint and dried-out product. Give some thought to what *design* of pads will work best; I used beveled-edge "variable contact" pads for some areas on my e36 M3 and couldn't have gotten by easily without them, but I wanted *flat* pads for broader panels like the hood/roof/etc.



And you will need tape to cover everything you don't want to touch with the pad (trim of all kinds) and to cover gaps that can get loaded with product (door seams/etc.). Rotary work tends to be messy until you get the hang of it.



Since you'll end up slinging product around (that mess factor again, be sure there's nothing nearby you don't want sprayed with polish), I'd consider taping off areas you're not working on so you can concentrate on one panel at a time.



And you'll need a new product for that finishing. Again, I think only the 3M Ultrafina is likely to yield decent final results and I wouldn't trust the Malco Rejuvenator for that.



Please return the polisher and save yourself grief. It's not the cheapness (though IIRC that unit is tricky to maintain a constant speed with as it slows under pressure), it's the type of polisher. I can imagine somebody being OK with the results on white, at least if holograms aren't a pet peeve (I myself won't *drive* a car that has them. Period.) but I really think you'd be better off with either the right polisher (dual action/random orbital) or even doing it by hand.



OK, climbing down off my soapbox

 

[Dan]

Accumulator, you have the patience of a saint. That said, this isn't going to end well.... It seems the OP is in more for confirmation of his purchases, than advice.

 

[Accumulator]

Accumulator, you have the patience of a saint. That said, this isn't going to end well....

I'd rather waste some time and bandwith (and hey, maybe it's not a waste after all) than have somebody [mess] up their car.



Looking back at the first post on this thread, that "repainted, thin paint" stuff only makes me more certain that the rotary is a bad idea.



Eh, by the time Flat buys the right backing plate and pads and products it's gonna cost some money too.



I think I'd rather have him use the polisher his girlfriend bought him and some OTC stuff from Meguiar's.



Actually, for the best bang for the buck I'd return the rotary and put some of the $26.99 into buying Meg's Ultimate Compound and hope it finishes out OK on white.. maybe just do that (by hand) and wax it.



Yeah, if I were beamed down to his shop, right now, with what he has at his disposal, *I* would do that car by hand even if I had to use the M02 and the Malco Rejuvenator. I'm not the most risk-averse guy when it comes to doing this stuff either



OK, Flat, ball's in your court Hope things go well, whatever you decide to do.