Advice and game plan

G

goin2drt

New member
OK I am fairly new to all this. I have done moderate detailing but really trying to get back into it for my own personal use and really don't want to take my car to someone else. Here is the game plan and looking for advice on any watch outs or things I can really screw up. Will be on a newer car (2,500 miles) and silver paint that is in pretty good shape.

1. Chemical Guys citrus wash
2. Nanoskin fine grade w/ Wolfgang Clay Lube
3. Wash again
4. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish with white Lake Country pad on Rupes 15
5. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with red LC pad.
6. Convertible fabric top getting Raggtopp cleaner and protectant.

Rupes is new for me so thoughts on number setting? I had a first generation Griots Orbital before. Also front of the car has Xpel clear bra

Please tell me if this is an ok start or am I off base here.
 
goin2drt said:
OK I am fairly new to all this. I have done moderate detailing but really trying to get back into it for my own personal use and really don't want to take my car to someone else. Here is the game plan and looking for advice on any watch outs or things I can really screw up. Will be on a newer car (2,500 miles) and silver paint that is in pretty good shape.

1. Chemical Guys citrus wash
2. Nanoskin fine grade w/ Wolfgang Clay Lube
3. Wash again
4. Wolfgang Paintwork Polish with white Lake Country pad on Rupes 15
5. Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant with red LC pad.
6. Convertible fabric top getting Raggtopp cleaner and protectant.

Rupes is new for me so thoughts on number setting? I had a first generation Griots Orbital before. Also front of the car has Xpel clear bra

Please tell me if this is an ok start or am I off base here.
Click to expand...

This is a good start. However, there are some things I would tweak a bit.

1. I'm hoping the Nano Skin is the hand pad or towel, I wouldn't use the DA pad unless the car was severely contaminated. It can mar more than the hand stuff and probably isn't best with a Rupes.

2. Wolfgang PPE isn't great on a DA IME. It's not terrible, but it tends to dry out fast before you can spread it. It's primarily a hand only product, although not advertised as such. To use it with a DA, I would use sparingly and prime the pad with DI water, if not it will be clumping up on the pad.

3. I wouldn't apply WG DGPS with a DA, especially a large throw one. It's harder to get close to edges precisely with a larger throw DA. Not saying you can't do it or it will hurt anything, but you will likely have to get to the edges using an applicator by hand unless you plan on getting some sealant on trim.

4. I probably wouldn't wash the car again after claying. Waterless wash wipe down as you go - yes. In fact, I use waterless wash as a clay lube than as a wipe down. Less products - less work. I'm assuming the car isn't super contaminated since your using fine "clay"?

5. I'd throw in Iron X as a decon step prior to claying. Even if it's a new car, it may have iron in the paint. You won't really know if and to what extent until you Iron X it. But it's a necessary step IMHO if it's never been done.


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After clay barring, I would use a fine abrasive polish rather than the non-abrasive WG Paintwork Polish Enhancer. After clay barring with the Nanoskin tool, I would bet you would find super fine micro marring. WG Finishing Glaze would be perfect for removing that micro marring, and leaving your silver paint defect free and ready for the WGDGPS.
 
Really appreciate the feedback.

The nanoskin is the pad. I was using the WG products by hand but now I want to use the DA.

What polish and wax would you guys recommend based on new silver paint and ease of use for a newbie? I will also do the Iron X step. I heard in SoCal not much an issue but will do.
 
Wax - pick any you like. If it's a DD, I'd go with something that lasts. I personally like things that come in a tub. Collinite 915 & Synergy come to mind as quite durable and easy to use. If your looking for cheap and super easy, I'd look into Prima HydroMax. But, the WG sealant is good - so if you have it you may want to just stick with that.

For a polish, since you have the Rupes, IMHO - it's just best to stick with their polishes and pads. Their polishes /pads don't gum up and and work well as a system. Plus, they are not complete DAT polishes, so you can get away with less passes.

The Rupe's yellow pad and the fine polish would probably be good. Optimum lotion polishes also work good with Rupes IME. If the paint is literally defect free, I'd use Prima Amigo.


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Since you have been so helpful I have a question. I was at a car gathering and talking to a few other folks today. Now the only thing is neither of these guys had silver so not sure what difference that makes but I was mentioning how you said the Wolfgang was not a great product to be applied with DA and they agreed.

They recommended:
All the same steps mentioned with throwing in the Iron X step then they said Menzerna 4500 (Polsihing step) followed by Collinite 845 to finish up. Thoughts?
 
Menz 4500 is a great polish. But, it won't correct any defects. If your paint is close to perfect, it's a good choice. It will remove any LSP on your paint. It's a polish primary meant for super soft DARK paints that are hard to finish down on with conventional polishes.

Since you mentioned your car is silver, it's probably not worth buying 4500 unless you already own it. It just won't make a difference on silver, however it's easier to use with a machine than WG PPE. But, it's probably not the best choice for your situation.

Honestly, you have to decide if your trying to correct something or just prep the paint. If the later, I highly recommend Prima Amigo by machine. If the prior, there are a slew of polishes you could use. Amigo is idiot proof and doesn't stain in cracks or trim. Wipe off is quite easy.

A lot of people like 845. I've never used it. Since Collinite claims 915 lasts longer and looks better - I have just decided to use that in the past. Both are cheap. I think you will be pretty happy with either.

Amigo followed by 915 is a winning combo.

If you don't believe me, search around for reviews on these products. If you find a single bad review on either - please cut and paste it here.




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Swanicyouth said:
Menz 4500 is a great polish. But, it won't correct any defects. If your paint is close to perfect, it's a good choice. It will remove any LSP on your paint. It's a polish primary meant for super soft DARK paints that are hard to finish down on with conventional polishes.

Since you mentioned your car is silver, it's probably not worth buying 4500 unless you already own it. It just won't make a difference on silver, however it's easier to use with a machine than WG PPE. But, it's probably not the best choice for your situation.

Honestly, you have to decide if your trying to correct something or just prep the paint. If the later, I highly recommend Prima Amigo by machine. If the prior, there are a slew of polishes you could use. Amigo is idiot proof and doesn't stain in cracks or trim. Wipe off is quite easy.

A lot of people like 845. I've never used it. Since Collinite claims 915 lasts longer and looks better - I have just decided to use that in the past. Both are cheap. I think you will be pretty happy with either.

Amigo followed by 915 is a winning combo.

If you don't believe me, search around for reviews on these products. If you find a single bad review on either - please cut and paste it here.




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Click to expand...

Done. I really appreciate it. I am just so overwhelmed on the products I didn't know where to start. I am taking your advice and doing the Prima Amigo and 915. I have used Prima products before and they worked great but they were on a black car, never tried the Amigo. To me the paint does not need any correction at least to my eye. I really just want to get a good first detail on it as not sure what had been done for the first 1,000 miles of the cars ownership.

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
 
So I did the Amigo today with my new Rupes and a white LC pad. A couple of comments/questions.

1. My Rupes seemed to get very warm, almost really warm and was even making the pad warm. I wasn't using all the much pressure I did not think and was on setting 5. Is that normal?
2. The Amigo seemed to really soak into the pad. Almost like I wasn't using much on the car. After my 4 passes the car was almost so clean I didn't need a MF towel to wipe it. Is that normal?

Lastly, I need some smaller pads, mine are too big for the car. I have 5.5 and need 5.
 
Get a smaller backing plate, like a 3.5inch with 4inch pads (assuming it's compatible with your Rupes). My pads (hydro-tech and denim) tend to get hot (using another DA) but I swap pads every panel so it's not a huge issue.


Did you prime the pad?


How I prime: I put a good amount of polish/compound on the pad and spread it across the surface of the pad and kind of gently work it in (don't work it deep, just below the surface) then you'll need to remove the surface residue from the pad by pressing against a microfiber towel (held in one hand) and turn on the DA (held with the other) for a quick second or two. I've herd this layer in the pad will help prevent new spent product from soaking in, and it seamed to work well for me. Now that you pad is primed you need much less product.
Or
I used to prime my pads by, spraying the pad with quick detail spray twice (or water/clay lube) and 4 small dots of polish.
 
Thanks for the help. Not sure what backing plates will fit so I asked in a different thread. Also I did not prime, what a newb.
 
Here are the results. Not a lot of correction needed.

Megs Hyper Wash
Nanoskin clay sponge w/WG lube
Prima Amigo
Collonite 915
Raggtop cleaner and conditioner
Optimum on the tires
WG polish the wheels
Interior Pinnacle Leather

Forgot IronX step, oops hopefully not a deal breaker. Awful cell phone pics.

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Some thoughts and changes for next time.

Will remember IronX also will use the Citrus Wash not Megs
Need smaller pads for the DA. I ordered 5.5 and they sent 6.5.
I applied the 915 by hand, PITA. Tough to wipe off.

Now that this has been done, what about maintenance.

Recommendations on simple wash and dry to save the protection for a while? What is a good wash to not kill the protection?
 

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