Acrylic Werks Application Procedure

R

Robb

New member
"Note, when you work a painted area or windshield; polish the area first, clay it second and when you come back and polish again, watch the results because you may need to flip the washcloth several times and continue to smooth out the paint until the desired results are met. Watch for a gray color on your washcloth, if you can't feel the difference, usually when the gray is eliminated your done. The final 2 steps: wipe area down with a clean damp cloth, leaving a small trail of water then buff with a 100% cotton diaper or t-shirt."





I responded to Marks offer of the free AW sample and these are the instructions he sent me, i thought this was a magical substance that needed no other prep? Why then should i clay the area first, i am really looking forward to trying this product and relaying my results, i will not however be using this product on my own car, but my winter beater, so when i recieve this product i will share with everyone my reults.
 
gray color?? what is the gray color? does it come from the AW or the paint?



I would think if it's the paint it wouldn't always be gray... maybe it's the AW getting progressively wiped off?
 
I have no idea where the grey would come from, hopefully it is excess product, if there is a gray coming off, ill know it wasnt my paint( white), I will take before and after pics of this project and post them here whenever my sample arrivesl.
 
Actually I'm a bit more surprised by the polish then clay instruction. I suppose this refers to the fact that you don't need to wash the car first, so the first polish is actually the wash stage - but even so doesn't seem right to me. I know Mark claims that AW will 'remove' the swirls but...
 
Well, any all-in-one will benefit from claying. That's hardly a shortcoming. The grey may be light dirt and oxidation that is lifted from the paint. Maybe they assume the paint is slightly less than perfect. Odd directions, yes, but hardly problematic. Maybe give it a try and see if you see the grey. Can't hurt to follow them... Though I would probably substitute "washcloth" and "diaper" for "microfiber" or "quality 100% cotton terry". ;)
 
I wonder if it's like the chemical reaction that occurs when you're polishing with flizt... you start to get this black/grey stuff after a while. I thought it was some chemical reaction to the chrome (which of course isn't black or grey).. so that might be it.



The oddest thing, if I followed it, was to watch for the grey to start to appear on the cloth, and then keep going until it's gone and that's how you know you're done. huh?
 
I witnessed Mark apply AW on the hood of the first tester we did and no offense to Mark, but the poor guy rubbed and rubbed until it looked like he ran a 10k uphill.



The gray color is an oddity to me as nothing I have ever used (on clear coats) has ever given me a "gray" transfer color. Obviously working on single stage paint will transfer the cars color to your pads and towels.



Also it may be very difficult to see any enhancement to the paint on a white colored car. I am sure that the paint will be smooth but to see if it removes swirls and such will be difficult to see, let alone photograph.



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
I witnessed Mark apply AW on the hood of the first tester we did and no offense to Mark, but the poor guy rubbed and rubbed until it looked like he ran a 10k uphill.
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Where do I sign up? I still want to lose about 20 pounds!
 
Aurora40 said:
Well, any all-in-one will benefit from claying. That's hardly a shortcoming. ... Odd directions, yes, but hardly problematic. ... Can't hurt to follow them...
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I don't agree :) If you polish first you risk removing the top part of anything embeded in the paint - then the clay is not so effective in 'pulling' the contaminant out. Also this product sounds very much like Autoglyms Super Resin and since I have used that to polish first (in a hurry :o ) and then clay, I can tell you that the polymer layer left behind seals contaminants in and the clay just slides straight over the top (I am not talking an aggressive bodyshop clay here just a detailing one)
 
Robb said:
"Note, when you work a painted area or windshield; polish the area first, clay it second and when you come back and polish again, watch the results because you may need to flip the washcloth several times and continue to smooth out the paint until the desired results are met. Watch for a gray color on your washcloth, if you can't feel the difference, usually when the gray is eliminated your done. The final 2 steps: wipe area down with a clean damp cloth, leaving a small trail of water then buff with a 100% cotton diaper or t-shirt."





I responded to Marks offer of the free AW sample and these are the instructions he sent me, i thought this was a magical substance that needed no other prep? Why then should i clay the area first, i am really looking forward to trying this product and relaying my results, i will not however be using this product on my own car, but my winter beater, so when i recieve this product i will share with everyone my reults.
Click to expand...





I got the same reply. I am not going to use it on my car, but I am going to try it on my 82 Honda CB750K motorcycle. It is a royal blue color, and in marginal shape. No clear in 82..... I am curious to see how it works.:nixweiss I will post results when complete as well.



If you want the full weird instructions, go to his website...
 
Yeah, i read the full instructions, they are a bit out there, if ur suppose to use it with a certain hand motion in a criss cross fashion then how is it to be used with a PC? Strange product and application it seems
 
Well, I guess we are back and I will try and define this. Acrylic-Werks Application Procedure: Step One, wash the car first. When I'm doing a live demonstration we don't have time to go and wash a car, so I have to use a little more polish and lightly wipe down the area to remove the dirt and dust. Then I will grab a fresh washcloth add polish and start working that area. I always polish the surface first, leave the acrylic residue there, do not buff off, spritz clay lubricant on the area, then clay. I will clay the area in a criss cross motion until the lubricant has dissipitated. Then, I will pull the clay towards me and remove all the residues, leaving a clean dry surface behind. Now I will take a fresh slightly damp washcloth and apply the polish. At this point I will rub the surface and inspect it (by inspecting, I mean put the surface your working, between you and the sun, there is no opportunity to hide what your shooting for) looking for the desired results. When this is completed I use a clean damp washcloth and wipe the area leaving small amount of water on the surface, then I buff with a clean 100% cotton diaper. On a single stage paint job, I will work the area until I'm getting a very light color in my washcloth. As for the gray residue, this only appears on older base / clear coat jobs. When I question the customer, if they're the original owner, I will ask them if they had an after market teflon sealant put on at the time of purchase. The majority of the time the answer is yes, and for second hand owners they were never told.



As strange as the directions sound, just follow them, and then come back and tell all. Don't forget to try all the areas it works on as well. Use the polish on whatever vehicle or surface your comfortable with, but just to let you know, I've demo'd some very impressive cars and these owners are still very happy with the results even 5-7 years later. Heck, I left such an impression on one group that they now OEM my product for their use: www.AmericanEagleMotorcycle.com

They are actually polishing every part of the bike during assembly, and this includes the motor and side wall of the tires as well. Have A Nice Day To All.



Mark G.
 
Robb,

I know you can use this with a PC. Recommendation, keep the pad slightly damp. Keep a water bottle handy, and spritz the area frequently because the PC is moving much quicker than you can duplicate by hand and therefore you will use the water in the product much faster and dry out the pad.

I don't generally recommend PC's because my customers like myself just don't have the experience. I do not make my living doing detail work, so time is on my side. The first application is always the big job, but the second time you apply the polish (about 3-4 months) this job will be very, very easy. This is what long time users come to appreciate.

As for the actual recommended pad, let me check with some of my customers and I will try and post their recommendations.

Thanks again Robb.



Mark G.
 
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