Acid rain etching, already tried to polish, should I wetsand?

[AuAltima3.5]

I've got a g35 coupe (Laser Red/"hard clear" on underhood sticker) that has some acid rain etching on most of the horizontal surfaces. Pics below. Note that the panel is VERY clean in the pic below, all the imperfections are in the clear.



I tried to remove these defects with a 4" yellow sonus pad (was most abrasive in their line-up when I purchased) and menzerna IP with my PC (at speed 5 if that matters). Two-three passes on most of the trunk. Didn't make too much of a dent, but improved the appearance.



Should I keep trying to remove this or is this a waste of time? I'd rather not repaint the trunk and hood for something like this, since there are few spots on my rear quarters and roof too, but the trunk is the absolute worst. I just purchased m105/205, but am worried this won't correct the etching, and that perhaps wetsanding is in my future.



Any advice?

 

[Bill D]

It might have to be a case for a rotary and/or wetsanding :nixweiss. I'd be real surprised if a repaint is the only thing that can fix it. Might have to take lots of time with multiple passes. If there's a lot of acid rain marks, you might want to decontaminate the car's finish with the Valugard ABC wash system and/ or the similar Finish Kare products first, so that once you've got the acid rain marks removed, they don't reactivate because the acid in the paint wasn't removed.

 

[Accumulator]

I've got a g35 coupe (Laser Red/"hard clear" on underhood sticker) that has some acid rain etching on most of the horizontal surfaces. Pics below. Note that the panel is VERY clean in the pic below, all the imperfections are in the clear.



I tried to remove these defects with a 4" yellow sonus pad (was most abrasive in their line-up when I purchased) and menzerna IP with my PC (at speed 5 if that matters). Two-three passes on most of the trunk. Didn't make too much of a dent, but improved the appearance...

Well, IMO that isn't all *that* aggressive, so you could probably go at it a bit harder and improve it a bit more.

Should I keep trying to remove this or is this a waste of time? I'd rather not repaint the trunk and hood for something like this, since there are few spots on my rear quarters and roof too, but the trunk is the absolute worst. I just purchased m105/205, but am worried this won't correct the etching, and that perhaps wetsanding is in my future.

In the absence of an ETG, I'd do a few passes with the M105 and then live with it. If you wetsand, I'd sure caution you to *NOT* overdo it.

Any advice?

Eh, I just live with such stuff as I'd rather have nice thick (thus healthy) clear. Can't say I've *never* wetsanded etching like that away, but if you thin the clear too much you might get that "faded to pink through the clear" look and they you're repainting anyhow.

 

[AuAltima3.5]

It might have to be a case for a rotary and/or wetsanding :nixweiss. I'd be real surprised if a repaint is the only thing that can fix it. Might have to take lots of time with multiple passes. If there's a lot of acid rain marks, you might want to decontaminate the car's finish with the Valugard ABC wash system and/ or the similar Finish Kare products first, so that once you've got the acid rain marks removed, they don't reactivate because the acid in the paint wasn't removed.

Thank you for this little tidbit. Didn't know I would need to do this.



Do you use ABC before or after compounding/wetsanding? It sounds like after from your post. I can only find the A and B online from detailers domain, will I need C? Kinda pricey but I would like to do it right. Or if I go FK, can I get by with the first three steps? It sounds like the fourth step is sealing, which I don't need if I'm polishing/compoundng, right?



Accumulator: Good info. This car is my semi-dd. It only comes out on nice days. So I usually take it out 3-4 days a week. I will be very aware of how much compounding I do with 105, any guesses on the maximum limit of passes? I'm using a PC so I'm guessing I should be alright with four or five. I unfortunately do want to chuck out $600 for a ETG... at least not yet.

 

[PAR Detailing]

If you dont have a PTG I would caution you when trying to wet sand. Infiniti clear is notorously thin... atlest the ones I have worked on. I did one that didnt have a reading above 100 microns anywhere on the car. You dont have a ton of room to work with. I did do some spot sanding on a bird poop etching with a good bit of success but I was measuring often.



I guess it really boils down to does the water spotting bother you enough to get it repainted? If you would rather paint it then sand away my friend, but if you have no desire to have any part of your vehicle repainted then proceed with caution.



Thats just my .02



Jon

 

[PAR Detailing]

I unfortunately do want to chuck out $600 for a ETG... at least not yet.

Highline Meter II! I picked mine up for $225 shipped. Alot of people use them. Detail a few neighbors cars to get some extra cash to buy it. You wont be sorry and if you dont like it Im sure someone on the forum would buy/trade with you for it

 

[Bill D]

Thank you for this little tidbit. Didn't know I would need to do this.



Do you use ABC before or after compounding/wetsanding? It sounds like after from your post. I can only find the A and B online from detailers domain, will I need C? Kinda pricey but I would like to do it right. Or if I go FK, can I get by with the first three steps? It sounds like the fourth step is sealing, which I don't need if I'm polishing/compoundng, right?

I'd use it before the compounding. My reasoning would be because you'd be neutralizing the acid first, then you'd be able to correct the damage. I wouldn't say that routine is set in stone though.



C is basically a good quality car wash. I don't see why I couldn't be substituted for another of your choice. To buy all three, you could get them from the Valugard site. I'd say the system is a good investment, especially since you live in an area with acid rain. You can have it hand if/when more evidence of acid rain occurs from the car just being in the environment.



Also, it's a great kit for corrrecting other kinds of fallout. I used it to nicely remove overspray, combining claying during the "B" step. I don't think it would be a waste to buy at all.



Yes, the first three steps of the FK system ought to work fine. Remember also, you need designated mitts/wash pads for each step. I use the timer on my phone to sound off when the specific period for each step you need to let dwell/wash is up.



Once you get all that washing done, then you can polish. I've found the paint is going to look even better in the end , rather than just traditionally washing first alone.

 

[AuAltima3.5]

Well it looks like i will be using the following in this order (just need to buy a few more things):



Finish Kare Paint Decon System

M105

3000g paper (if M105 doesn't do the trick). Most likely by hand.

M105

M205



I am concerned about the use of the decon system, sounds like some scary stuff, it won't damage my rubbers and plastics, will it?



This is something that really bothers me to look at. If it were a white or tan I probably would be ok, but it's a very deep red and from a distance it's great, but about five feet away I want to scream.

 

[JohnKleven]

Probably needs wetsanding, you will need to shear the ringlets off. Sometimes polishing will only round the edges of the spotting and they could potentially reappear. I would do a quick pass with 2000 grit and compound it out. Best of luck!

 

[Bill D]

I am concerned about the use of the decon system, sounds like some scary stuff, it won't damage my rubbers and plastics, will it?

You can better familarize yourself with this type of decon system by reading all about it on the AutoInt website. There's a video on how to do it and there are TSBs for major car manufacturers that explain how to do it.



The Valugard system comes with clear typed instructions when you buy the set of 3 products.



Also, Ron Ketcham is the pioneer of this product. You can PM him and voice your questions and concerns. It was his info that got me confident to use it.



Remember also, that after all of this, consider the wetsanding be done very lightly. My dad has a torch red 'vette and he is just living with some etching on the rear deck after having had it sanded and there still be some. You can't replace the clear if it's too deep. The car was 7 years old when he got it though, so all those years to etch, and that clear coat is older technology, so maybe you'll have better results.



Keep us posted about this. Hope it turns out 100% better!

 

[Accumulator]

I am concerned about the use of the decon system, sounds like some scary stuff, it won't damage my rubbers and plastics, will it?

Just don't concentrate the use of "A" on the rubber/plastic surfaces and you should be OK. "B" works best when you let it dwell for a good long time, but try to keep it off aluminum trim. Those are my only caveats about "ABC" and I'd sure feel safer using it than wetsanding.



After what Jon Leidgen posted about the thin Infiniti clear, I'd sure be conservative about the wetsand. Eh, I simply wouldn't do it, but that's just me. I've had vehicles with thin clear before, and only being able to correct them a few times can be a drag...like when somebody brushes against it in a parking lot or somesuch and you realize you simply have to live with it forever because your prior Autopianism took off all the clear you had to spare.

 

[Bill D]

After what Jon Leidgen posted about the thin Infiniti clear, I'd sure be conservative about the wetsand. Eh, I simply wouldn't do it, but that's just me. I've had vehicles with thin clear before, and only being able to correct them a few times can be a drag...like when somebody brushes against it in a parking lot or somesuch and you realize you simply have to live with it forever because your prior Autopianism took off all the clear you had to spare.

Oh sheesh, yeah it's thin Infiniti clear , we're talking about here. The 'vette has typical hard GM clear and the etching was so bad, it 's still partially there after sanding, so on an Infiniti, definitely tread super lightly! Maybe 5000 or finer grit if that's even practical.



Accumulator--your vehicle got brushed against in a parking lot? I'm surprised you didn't park lonely?

 

[Accumulator]

Accumulator--your vehicle got brushed against in a parking lot? I'm surprised you didn't park lonely?

Well, that "too thin to fix it again" one was the MPV I used to have, and it got parked wherever (especially when hauling the dogs) so, well...you know. Incredibly thin paint on that vehicle, but it ended up being a complete POS overall anyhow, so bad it was a waste of money IMO.



Heh heh, I suspect that when people see the beater-Tahoe and the Crown Vic, they're more worried about *me* than I need to be about them :chuckle:



Actually, I only exercise protective parking with the Jag and the S8, and wouldn't you know the S8 got some *awful* "brushed against it" damage down at the Greenbrier! Sheesh, between the Deer Incident and that damage (I'm guessing it was an errant pram) my vacation trips are sure hard on that poor car It's like it only comes out of storage to get damaged!



Hmmm...I suppose Accumulatorette is somewhat careful about where she parks the A8, at least it seldom gets any damage. But when she's down in Memphis I suspect that all bets are off.

 

[Bill D]

I suspect Mazda has become more aware of the thin paint and they want to do more about it. A good pal of mine got a CX-9 with a clear bra ,standard issue from the dealer!



I'm the only one so far who (screws up) something on my cars I might be the only person in the world who wound up putting a small ding in the A4 with a can of Souveran! Don't ask! And I'm the one who got that silver overspray over it a few years back. :wall



If the cars had minds, they'd me more afraid of me than whatever they see in the parking lot. :chuckle:

 

[AuAltima3.5]

UPDATE:



Well, I got the etching down to a 'manageable' level for me to deal with. Used LC Heavy cut pads and Menzerna IP. 2 Passes using the KBM. Then finished with Menz Final Polish and LC whites. Pics later.. maybe. Gotta take them :lol:



Originally, was going to use LC wool pads, but the etching was so deep I wound up erring on the side of caution for longevity since I feel after correction on my test spot I wouldn't want to respray. At least I have wool pads now...



Did wetsand my front bumper with 3000g. Sanding marks were removed with same method above. It's not oem so I'm guessing it was just much softer? Corrected pretty easy.

 

[Bill D]

Sounds like decent results without wetsanding that large area. Makes sense to me that the aftermarket paint is softer and therefore easier to correct. I bet the pics will show everything to be pretty good....

 

[Accumulator]

AuAltima3.5- Glad it worked out, and I do think it was good to err on the side of caution. Speaking of which though, keep an eye on the bumper cover where you sanded it; yeah, it's simply different paint on a a different material.

 

[imported_carnut]

Any one in and around Louisville area that can take care of acid rain spots on my '07 5 series?



Thanks